Trailorr

What are the best fluids, oils, or water(just kidding) to use in our XJ's?

Transmission, regular oil changes, front and rear diffs, the whole detail. What's going to protect everything. It's hard to explain but I think we all know what I'm trying to say.

What's the advantage of running fully synthetic oil vs regular oil? What's recommended to use for each area of our XJ's.

I didn't search at all but I'm really curious.

xjmuddigger

lucas everything lol,but call your local jeep dealer and they can give u the exact oil and fluid specs
synthetic runs cooler but i dont kno the truth about it

NoColoradoGT

Good God, this thread title could be taken in a really dirty way.

kaz2000xjsport

I like Royal Purple fluids.

89Laredo

If you have the extra money, run synthetics. If not, dont worry about it.
They add a little extra protection and flow better in the cold. They also last longer.

Diesel oil is good for our engines. If you live somewhere it is warm, you could pry get away with 15w40 rotella. 5w40 synthetic rotella if you have the money or live where its cold.

Dexron III in trans and tcase

I use synthetic brake fluid, its about the same price

gl3 gear oil

I use napa silver oil filters, theyre made by WIX.

xjmuddigger

i use mopar oil filters,they do good for me

89Laredo

mopar is the same as napa silver. Made by Wix.
The napa is about 2$ cheaper IIRc.

xjmuddigger

oh well is the napa silver cheaper?

Trailorr

I'm not afraid to spend money where it counts. I crossed over from the dark side(Import, Honda scene) but I always took my car to Honda for regular oil changes and such, but this is a new world to me. Can you directly go from synthetics from conventional oil?

I have a Chilton's manual but I really haven't read much about what is "required" but I think this is a good thread for everyone, jnot just me.

xjmuddigger

to switch to synthetic u have to drain the motor completely of conventional oil, at least ur supposed to

89Laredo

^ not true, just treat it as a typical oil change. Drain and fill.

yes, you can go right to synthetics.
If you want to go gradual, get a synthetic blend.

I would feel safe running a synthetic about 7000mi between changes if you dont beat on it and do long highway runs so the moisture doesnt build up.

Gorillaxj

Ok took the time for you, here you go. Fluid types and Capacity (based on a 2000 cherokee)

Auto Trans fluid-
30RH, Mopar ATF +4, Type 9602 Automatic Transmission Fluid /takes 4.67L (9.86 Pt)
AW-4, Mopar Dexron IIE/Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid /takes 7.8Liters (16.5 Pt)
Manual Trans fluid-
AX5 Transmission Mopar 75W-90 API Grade GL-3 Gear Lubricant or equivalent /takes 3.5Liters (3.7 Qt)
NV3550 Transmission Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant P/N 4761526 /takes 2.28Liters (4.8 Pt)
Use only this lubricant. No other lubricants are acceptable or recommended. Correct fill level to bottom edge of the fill plug hole.
Brake fluid (also clutch fluid)-
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform to DOT 3 specifications
and SAE J1703 standards. No other type of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
Coolant-
Use 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze containing Alugard 340-2 and low mineral content water
2.5L takes 9.5 Qts, 4.0L takes 11.5 Qts, these include recovery reservoir.
Differential Fluid-
All Axles API GL5, thermally stable SAE 80W-90
Mopar Hypoid Gear Lubricant or equivalent, meeting specification MIL-L-2105C.
FRONT AXLE, 181 FBI 1.48Liters (3.13 pts), 186 FBI 1.18Liters (2.5 pts)
REAR AXLE, 194 RBI 1.66Liters (3.5 pts), 8 1/4 2.08Liters (4.4 pts)
Lubricant for axles intended for heavy duty or trailer towing-
SAE 75W-140 Synthetic gear lubricant
194 RBI Axle With TRAC-LOK, include 3.5 oz. of friction modifier
8 1/4 Axle With TRAC-LOK, include 3.5 oz. of friction modifier
Engine Oil Type-
Above 0°F (-18°C) 10W-30 (Preferred)
Below 32°F (0°C) 5W-30
Engine Oil Capacity w/filter 6.0 qts. (based on 4.0L)
Fuel-
Unleaded fuel having a minimum octane rating of 87 (20 Gal tank) actual refill amount may very depending on vehicle
Power steering fluid-
Mopar Power Steering Fluid or equivalent
Air Conditioning-
refriderant- 134A
Oil- ND-8 PAG. PAG =PolyAlkylene Glycol
Charge Capacity 0.567 kilograms (1.25 pounds)
Transfer Case Fluid-
NV231 Mopar Dexron III, ATF +3 Type 7176, Automatic Transmission Fluid / takes 1.0Liters (2.2 Pt)
NV242 Mopar Dexron III, ATF +3 Type 7176, Automatic Transmission Fluid / takes 1.3Liters (2.85 Pt)
Capacities may vary. Correct fill is to the bottom of the fill plug hole.

In my opinion! synthetics are over priced and not worth the money. I dont see them as a bad thing just more money for what gain? I would rather change my fluids more often to get the dirt/particles out then run a "super fluid" and keep the stuff in there longer, i dont fully grasp that some oils/fluids can last 2-5 times longer then others. there is always the outside factor of dirt/moisture entering the fluid and adding to breakdown. however if it makes you feel better then great. It is your vehicle and should be kept to the best YOU want it. hope all this info is helpfull. You also can switch from synthetic to crude or vise versa, but its always better to pick and stick with it.

Trailorr

Gorilla, this is what I'm talking about. Thank you. So basically, in a nut shell, just take it to a dealer and have them put OEM fluids?

Gorillaxj

No problem.

you can, but it will cost more money then doing it yourself. they just lable everything with there brands to keep it in house... Almost any shop will use the correctly recomended fluids, NOT just dealers. however both achieve the same end result but cost is a factor. what ever makes YOU feel the best once its all done. I myself would just buy it and change it myself...

my dealer charges 129$ for a 4x4 service(both diffs and t/case). when i do it myself and just buy the fluids i am about (depending on brand) about 60$ +/- (i buy it from autozone,pep boys, checker ect) still cheaper then my employee pricing.

ALSO, alot of dealers use Valvoline, mobil 1, ect and buy it in bulk because its cheper then the name brand stuff... so in most cases the fluids are the same as off the counter/after market shops fluids. its not as important to the name brand as it is proper intervals of fluid changes.

Trailorr

As long as I stay to the correct fluids, it really doesn't matter to a brand?