First time ATF didn't work well for cleaning engine.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by car5car
well, tell your wise man, that he is not a wise man.
I used atf to clean probably around 100 engines, your "wise" man would rebuild them. There are many mechanics, doing work, which doesn't need to be done, every day.
I used atf to clean probably around 100 engines, your "wise" man would rebuild them. There are many mechanics, doing work, which doesn't need to be done, every day.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've never used ATF for engine cleaning. My tried and true method was to put a quart of diesel in the crankcase and drive it for about 100 miles before changing it all out for fresh oil.
I stopped doing this with more modern vehicles with high tech or multiple cats and multiple O2 sensors. I don't know that it would cause a problem, but I didn't want to find out. And, newer engine designs, technologies and tolerances, advanced oils, and better gasolines have greatly reduced sludge anyway.
I stopped doing this with more modern vehicles with high tech or multiple cats and multiple O2 sensors. I don't know that it would cause a problem, but I didn't want to find out. And, newer engine designs, technologies and tolerances, advanced oils, and better gasolines have greatly reduced sludge anyway.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: FL
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I prefer not to drive a car with lower viscosity oil, idling is OK, 2000-3000RPM is OK w/o driving.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
[QUOTE=car5car;1958685 There are many mechanics, doing work, which doesn't need to be done, every day.[/QUOTE]
And there is even more work that needs to be done, that isn't, every day.
And there is even more work that needs to be done, that isn't, every day.
actually, no. the point is, you take an older and used motor out of a vehicle that you don't know the history of, and start putting additives in it so you can "clean the gunk out".....you WILL put debris into the oil system. in the off chance that the sump screen doesn't block it, and the oil pump lets it through, and the oil filter lets it through (ironically not a very hard set of circumstances), you're going to start wrecking bearings.
if your motor has that much sludge, and you can't do something as basic as pulling an oil pan in order to knock as much sludge out the bottom as you can, then you should probably not be working on anything.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
actually, no. the point is, you take an older and used motor out of a vehicle that you don't know the history of, and start putting additives in it so you can "clean the gunk out".....you WILL put debris into the oil system. in the off chance that the sump screen doesn't block it, and the oil pump lets it through, and the oil filter lets it through (ironically not a very hard set of circumstances), you're going to start wrecking bearings.
if your motor has that much sludge, and you can't do something as basic as pulling an oil pan in order to knock as much sludge out the bottom as you can, then you should probably not be working on anything.
if your motor has that much sludge, and you can't do something as basic as pulling an oil pan in order to knock as much sludge out the bottom as you can, then you should probably not be working on anything.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 416
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From: Tucson AZ
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
AHHHH!!! the great thing about working on cars. Everybody's right and everyone else is wrong.
My dad used to add some diesel to the oil before every change. He also ran a paraffin based motor oil and never drove over 50mph. Drove his 57 Studebaker Pu into the eighty's with the same motor.
Me, I'll stick with my MMO.
My dad used to add some diesel to the oil before every change. He also ran a paraffin based motor oil and never drove over 50mph. Drove his 57 Studebaker Pu into the eighty's with the same motor.
Me, I'll stick with my MMO.
No cutting corners. I don't own a single vehicle that I haven't completely rebuilt the motor in.. It's called being **** retentive. and yes, that's my opinion. A detergent does not break down sludge and carbon buildup into molecules that can safely pass through an oil system. It may break them free, but that leaned you with large particles that have to somehow pass through to the oil system, potentially resulting in damaged, scratched, or scored parts. I won't even run sea foam. If it's that bad, don't cut corners by doing something that #might# fix the problem. Just do it right.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: FL
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
actually, no. the point is, you take an older and used motor out of a vehicle that you don't know the history of, and start putting additives in it so you can "clean the gunk out".....you WILL put debris into the oil system. in the off chance that the sump screen doesn't block it, and the oil pump lets it through, and the oil filter lets it through (ironically not a very hard set of circumstances), you're going to start wrecking bearings.
if your motor has that much sludge, and you can't do something as basic as pulling an oil pan in order to knock as much sludge out the bottom as you can, then you should probably not be working on anything.
if your motor has that much sludge, and you can't do something as basic as pulling an oil pan in order to knock as much sludge out the bottom as you can, then you should probably not be working on anything.
Maybe you are right, I should find something easier to do. That is a good advice, thanks!
Last edited by car5car; Aug 15, 2012 at 01:11 PM.


