Remove the oil filter and crank it without the ASD relay installed. If it doesn't get messy in a hurry, "There's your problem, Lady!"

 

Alright, silly question but where is my ASD relay located, and when you mean "messy" should oil be pumping out where the filter is located?

 

Yes! And the ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay is in the PDC (fuse/relay box under the hood)

You could just loosen the filter.

 

Alright so all I did was look at the starter relay, t(ilI believe its the gold box with the fuel pump, starter and two other plugs and pull the starter plug off and then plugged it back on and she started right up. It's only got the exhaust manifold on no exhaust pipe after that. She's starts but slowly dies unless I kept my foot on the gas I'm guessing that's because of the exhaust? I'll check the TPS and make sure it's adjusted where it needs to be but I didn't hear any grinding noise either. Not sure what that was or how I fixed it. I do appreciate you guys helping me out though, I'm still quote the Novice with this sort of thing so it was greatly appreciated. I know I'll be back with more questions for sure.

 

I guess you have oil pressure now?

 

Yes I do. Can you tell me though what that means or I did wrong so I don't do it again?

 

Its a weird one, possibly some jamming of starter gears

One other consideration could be failure of oil pump priming...this can occur when the oil is drained from a motor for too long, and/or a poor filter is swapped in...the oil pump becomes filled with air

Is this a possibility in your case ?...I always complete my oil and filter changes speedily...some vehicles have a known problem with this issue

 

Alright, when I change my harmonic balancer, it's still rotated half way with ease and then halfway was stiff and squealed but I rotate it quite a few times though try to pinpoint the squeal. After I did this, is when it started up fine like nothing was wrong. My oil pressure is about 22 to 25 and idles at 750ish. It's got open headers as of now until my new exhaust comes in. So I read I need to Mell the engine to prime and run the oil through the oil points throughout the engine. Well noted now.

 

Getting stiff would be a sign of getting compression.

 

I hope that 22 to 25 is at idle hot because if it's that at cold startup, that's worrisome.

 

Oil pressure when started should be much higher than 25psi...closer to twice that.

given your situation, I would be inclined to do 3 things

*remove all spark plugs, and carefully rotate the engine via crank pully nut...it must be smooth

*now would be the perfect time to perform a compression test

* if it passes above test, verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge

 

So I'm having some issues with driving. So while I'm driving around the parking lot like you would at a grocery store or so, I can press the throttle enough to move around, but once I creep up to about 17-1850 Rpms and right before it should shift, the jeep begins to sputters and even when I keep trying to accelerate, the Rpms will just drop down to about 1200rpms until I let off the gas and then it smooths out. I did this in Park as well,would give it some gas and it would creep up to about 1800 and the sputter again and drop even while I was pressing on the gas still. Ive check my fuel pressure on the rail and it's at 34psi idle and will change +/- 1 maybe 2psi. Now in Park when I pressed down on the gas the pressure doesn't drop when it sputters out and Rpms drop even while I'm still giving it gas. I can't figure out the issue. Fuel filter is relatively new and was change about 1000 miles ago. If you guys have any ideas please let me know.

 

So I can start the engine and it will idle just above 750, as it's warming up the Rpms will fluctuate, it will drop low enough to where it seems like it will die but then level itself out, it will do this for a few minutes as it warms up then eventually will go away only happening here and there. My issue is when I go to rev it up, at about 1700 Rpms it sputters out and the Rpms drop as it it just suddenly was about to die even while I'm still pressing down on the throttle. When I let off the throttle the idle drops back down to about 750rpms and stays there. At first I thought it was fuel related so I checked the fuel rail and I have 32 psi and when I rev it up and it sputter against I still have 32osi +/- 1psi. So my next question is does it sound vacuum related? I took my O2 sensor off and it was pretty corroded, I started it up without it on and the jeep reacted the same way. Anything would help. 1988 Cherokee XJ, 4.0 inline, 4x4

 

That 'dies when revved' reminds me of another current thread here. I'm certainly not a Renix expert, but I'm thinking that the CPS and cam position at the distributor are out of adjustment to where the PCM loses sync with increased RPM in both of these cases. This partly comes from when I had a Subaru that would do similar things that turned out to be jumped timing on one cam so that the computer would lose sync and all he11 would break loose.

 

Yeah it will die and plummet until I let off and it smooths out. When I put it in drive, it can idle itself like you would in a store parking lot, you can give it a lol gas and it will go right up until it reaches about 1800rpms and then sputters out again until I let off. Same issue in both park and drive.