I've been fighting these leaf spring for the past few days now. I had the front bolt seize in the busing and thought I had it all the way out before I cut it, but the bolt held on by the last few threads. I was able to extract that out, but now I can only get a regular bolt to catch and turn about 1 turn before it stops going in easy. I I had a 1/2" bolt that will thread in all the way, so I think maybe just the first few threads were messed up? I've been looking all around google for the best solution, but I'm having trouble. I was thinking about just sending it with the 1/2" bolt, but it's just slightly smaller than the stock M14 bolt, so it wiggles just a little bit when threaded loosely (without the weight of the spring). I put it in and got it started with a wrench, and it wasn't loose and was tightening down, but didn't want to tourque it down yet and potentially mess up the threads more. What do you guys think, can a m14x2 tap fix the threads? Do I need to cut out and replace the nut in the body, or should I just see if the 1/2" bolt will tourque down?

 

Carefully run the correct size tap through the threads. I had to do this to mine for similar reasons as you when I replaced my leaf springs a few years back.

 

Absolutely do not use the wrong hardware on suspension parts. This isnt the situation where halfassing is safe.

 

Just a hint. The OEM suspension bolts are metric. You need to be looking at th9se sizes

 

Okay cool, I wasn't sure about the tap because I haven't used one before and everything I read online said don't use taps to clean up old threads. Will the tap start to thread before it starts to cut? Also, the compartment up there is too tight for a tap wrench, will it be fine to just use an adjustable wrench on it? Sorry for the noob questions, I think I bit off more than I could chew with this job.
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Yes you can use an adjustable wrench, that's what I did. Because you are not cutting new threads there will be less resistance than if you were. I like to turn the tap back half as far as a turned it with each rotation, to avoid jamming the tap in the hole.

Just be careful as you go along, make sure the tap is straight and not cross threading the nut. Your goal is to just clean up the threads, not cut new threads.

 

Jeez.. I am in the process of ordering new leafs, bushings, coils, and shocks.. and I keep seeing more and more issues with those rear leafs. I'm worried about snapping a bolt, then I see this.. lol

 

Had the same problem a few weeks ago putting a lift on my 99. I used tap and fixed the threads in a few minutes.

 

read ALOT. Every thread you can find and save all the tips and tricks. Use a torch and get them hot enough to break up the factory thread locker. Dont try it without heat

Sorry. Not trying to hijack the thread

 

I've been watching all the youtube videos I can find on it, and I've been reading a bunch of threads here. The jeep I am going to replace the springs on, I just bought 3 weeks ago so I don't know much of the history... It's in Florida thankfully though, so hoping I don't have too many issues with rust. The jeep hasn't been lifted so its all stock from the looks of it.

 

I have done the rear suspension on two XJs. A 98 and a 99. I used a propane torch and heated up all around the capture nut to loosen the loctite. I went for several minutes, then used a breaker bar to loosen it. Once I got it loose, I periodically turned it back and continued applying heat from the propane torch. They all came out fairly easily. I did have to cut away the leaf spring on two of them to get the bolts all the way freed up. May not have been necessary, but wasn't too bad.