Ok, I believe I have it all figured out. I bridged the two outlets for the reverse switch with a piece of metal and was able to get reverse lights when in reverse so I believe I have a faulty reverse switch. Is there anyway to fix the switch versus buying a new one?

 

???? With it jumped do you get reverse light when it's not in reverse?

 

No when it is jumped I will only get reverse lights in reverse.

 

Note from DJ
Going back to my original Diagram from my post #13 where are the two outlets for the reverse switch are you bridging?

 

I'm briding C279 , which would simulate the reverse switch activating thus completing the circuit and send power to the reverse lights, correct?

 

Take the switch out and spray brake cleaner, contact cleaner in through the pin that moves. Cycle the pin in and out.

 

Note from DJ
I'm bridging C279 , which would simulate the reverse switch activating thus completing the circuit and send power to the reverse lights, correct?

That is correct

 

Ok cool so I'm gonna try what cruiser said and give the switch a good coercing. Another day of working on the jeep tomorrow then. Reupholstered the headliner today, Also, plan on doing spark plugs on my WRX tomorrow. Should be quite busy.

 

Gave it a quick cleaning and pushed the ball in and out in its track. Unfortunately it still didn't work when putting it in so I'm gonna give it another cleaning, test to see if it completes the circuit when the ball is pushed in and also look inside the trans when shifted into reverse from where the switch screws in.

 

I did take a look and didn't find that switch on Rockauto. (I did notice they have a closeout on your Clutch Master rebuild Kit, Under $7!)

You and DJ can figure it out, but I'm a bit in the dark here. If the light's come on only in reverse with the switch bypassed, what is the switch for? Guess I'm missing something. If it functions correctly with that bypassed, what the heck is it doing there? Never-mind, carry on!

 

Initially that's what I thought, but I checked again this morning and unfortunately they're on all the time not only when it's in reverse when the switch is bypassed. Seems that I was missing something lol.

I'm gonna have to give that rebuild kit a look though

 

Note from DJ
Is this what your switch looks like?

 

Yes.

 

Note from DJ
Second note from DJ
If you are reading this post for the first time please go to my later post #31 on page #3 for tips on how to possible identification which Trans you have first before jumping to conclusions.

Ok I think this may be your problem the AMC 88 Manual Trans was a Peugeot BA-10 5-speed listed to mate with the 4.0L I-6 engine.
Now you state that your transmission is an Aisin Warner AX-5 5-speed; that Trans was to be mated with I-4 engine.
Now if your transmission has been swapped for an Aisin Warner AX-15 5-speed [the came on the 89+ XJ] and they just moved the switch from the old Trans to the change out Trans; there is not enough thread depth on the original switch to allow the switch to come into contact with the reverse mechanism in the Trans.
Note the short length of threads on your switch in the photo that I posted which is the switch for the original Trans.

That’s enough speculations for now hear is what I would do if it were my problem:
1. Take a VOM multimeter [If you don’t have one by one they are must have tool for working on a Renix Jeep.] Set the meter on the Ohms sale remove the switch and hook up the two leans one each to the switch terminals; turn the meter on and exercise the switch and see if it makes and brakes the circuit; Yes or No?
2. Find the ID tag on the Trans and post which Trans that you have.

Now I’m going to post a photo of the switch that is listed for the Aisin Warner AX-15 5-speed so that you can see the difference in the thread links just for comparison.

 

Hey! That's some Supper Sleuthing there DJ!
Being that the plug is different that might well be exactly what happened.
So how long of a spacer does he need to stick in there?