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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
So another update: Jeep seems to be running much better. I am guessing one of the wires from the old radio was causing some interference. The only thing is, it still stalls. It stalled on me as I was backing out of a parking space at the library. Again I had been running it pretty decent as I had driven out to the junkyard earlier, so it's happening when it is really good and warmed up. Also today for a split second it did something it hasn't done in a long time and that was make a "tick tick tick" noise on start up. When that used to happen it would get louder if you gave it more gas or go away if you gave it more gas. Today it lasted for 2 secs and immediately evened out. Again I still have a leaking fuel tank, I guess I could throw the pressure gauge on next time the car is super warmed up to see if fuel pressure is dropping when I get into the stall zone. I wanna say that the early stages of this happened when I upgraded the fuel injectors, but I'm not certain.
At this point I'm just posting to keep a record of everything and create a bigger picture:
Yesterday the car seemed to be running pretty well until that stall when I was backing up. Last night I went to go for a drive and the car was cranking way longer than usual, to the point where I decided to let go of the key, at which point the Jeep just miraculously started up.
At the suggestion of Cruiser, I went ahead and bypassed the fuel pump ballast resistor. This seems to have made a difference but I haven't gotten a chance to really test it, because while I was in there I also noticed that my electric radiator fan stopped working, The edge of the blade was pressed up against the metal hose that goes to the air intake, and I'm guessing the motor gave out when it couldn't spin freely. I ordered a new one and that should be here tomorrow. Once that's in we'll see how he's behaving. Who knows how long it's been seized, probably since I replaced the alternator a few weeks ago. My temp gauge hasn't been reading hot, but I'm thinking that the malfunctioned fan my have been causing some current draw, as well as overall inefficiency in the vehicle's operation. It's definitely been feeling overall warmer when I'm under the hood and the engine is running.
New gas tank arrived today and if I have time on Friday I will swap them out.
At the suggestion of Cruiser, I went ahead and bypassed the fuel pump ballast resistor. This seems to have made a difference but I haven't gotten a chance to really test it, because while I was in there I also noticed that my electric radiator fan stopped working, The edge of the blade was pressed up against the metal hose that goes to the air intake, and I'm guessing the motor gave out when it couldn't spin freely. I ordered a new one and that should be here tomorrow. Once that's in we'll see how he's behaving. Who knows how long it's been seized, probably since I replaced the alternator a few weeks ago. My temp gauge hasn't been reading hot, but I'm thinking that the malfunctioned fan my have been causing some current draw, as well as overall inefficiency in the vehicle's operation. It's definitely been feeling overall warmer when I'm under the hood and the engine is running.
New gas tank arrived today and if I have time on Friday I will swap them out.
I did yesterday. Didn't stress it but definitely got it good and warm. Didn't have any stalling, but there were some good rev drops and some minor acceleration stutter/surging. Started it this afternoon and got some of that "tick tick tick" noise going on but very light and went away almost immediately. It's almost time for an oil change which always makes things a little funkier than usual.
Oil level: Just below the full mark
Scent: Brought out a fresh jug of oil to compare it to. I would say the engine oil definitely has a smell of gasoline in it.
I just did a quick google and it's saying the source could be injectors, which as I said before I sort of remember the very beginning stages of this issue when I installed the 746 injectors. I actually have a message to the guy I bought them from saying I thought something might be up at the time I installed them.
Also I went to Meanlemons website but it's been down for a while.
Last edited by ButtStripe; Jan 30, 2020 at 01:37 PM.
Oil level: Just below the full mark
Scent: Brought out a fresh jug of oil to compare it to. I would say the engine oil definitely has a smell of gasoline in it.
I just did a quick google and it's saying the source could be injectors, which as I said before I sort of remember the very beginning stages of this issue when I installed the 746 injectors. I actually have a message to the guy I bought them from saying I thought something might be up at the time I installed them.
Also I went to Meanlemons website but it's been down for a while.
Update: the biggest issue was the vacuum line between the MAP and throttle body. It has stopped stalling and runs pretty decent. I purchased a REM. There is still a jerk in the RPM's, but there is nothing in the ecu that is operating out of range according to the engine monitor. I am going to thoroughly inspect the electrical lines coming from the alternator and replace another bad vacuum, then go from there.
Ok so I still have the stalling at idle. Give it some light gas and it's fine. I am going to try new injectors, here is why:
1)The problem of the dipping or jerking RPM's started when I installed the BOSCH 784 injectors
2)I did some digging around and found an injector upgrade chart. According to it, for a Renix the best injectors are the Bosch 703's if you are running a stock fuel rail (which I am). If you upgrade to a newer fuel rail, then they recommend Ford 19#, which were the injectors that were originally in the Jeep when I purchased it, and for all intents and purposes ran fine as I recall. I bought the 703's with a lifetime warranty.
3) The 784 injectors are recommended for a 99-01 Cherokee
I'm thinking the reason why it's running decently with throttle applied is because it's building enough pressure to fake running normally. When it's at idle, it probably just doesn't have the proper pressure to idle normally, and needs a little accelerator to keep it's head above water.
Installed the 703 injectors today. So much improved when I did, but other things went funky.
The Good: It starts up in 1 second or less, idles a lot better, still has the jerk but doesn't seem like it's going to die as much,stronger map and vac readings, power steering seems to be properly powered, and some other stuff that I'm forgetting to mention.
The Bad: On my REM I am getting a CEL for a "Fault Loop Rich" (Or maybe "Loop Fault Rich"). The REM is reading lean on start up but as soon as I give it gas it stays rich and does not fluctuate between lean. Gas mileage seems to have gone down.