Hello,
I'm getting the code for evap small leak on my 2001 xj. The rubber lines look good out of the purge solenoid to the evap canister but the metal line coming out of the canister is really badly rusted. Would that be a possible cause and if so how easy it to replace. I'm not familiar with its function.
Thanks
I'm getting the code for evap small leak on my 2001 xj. The rubber lines look good out of the purge solenoid to the evap canister but the metal line coming out of the canister is really badly rusted. Would that be a possible cause and if so how easy it to replace. I'm not familiar with its function.
Thanks
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Already replaced. Was hoping that was the fixOriginally Posted by Turbo X_J
Fuel cap.
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The rectangular evap canister, located underneath the vehicle, should have three plastic ports connected to rubber hoses. Should be the same for 97 or 98 through 01 (federal emissions).
From what I remember from a few years back after dropping the tank, there is a metal line coming from the fuel tank with a rubber hose to the canister. I can't remember if there is a rubber connection on both ends of the metal tubing. If it is leaking you should be able to splice in a new piece of metal tubing.
The three ports should be .. one for the intake, vacuum line from the purge solenoid and the third is for fuel vapors and roll-over from the fuel tank.
If one of the lines is not leaking. Evap canisters potentially can crack. Sometimes the plastic ports break off or develop a leak.
Can't remember the code number but it's the one for evap leak small. My buddy ran it for me. My metal line is really rusted. On initial inspection the rubber lines look ok but I have to look more thoroughly.Originally Posted by Anony
What is the code?The rectangular evap canister, located underneath the vehicle, should have three plastic ports connected to rubber hoses. Should be the same for 97 or 98 through 01 (federal emissions).
From what I remember from a few years back after dropping the tank, there is a metal line coming from the fuel tank with a rubber hose to the canister. I can't remember if there is a rubber connection on both ends of the metal tubing. If it is leaking you should be able to splice in a new piece of metal tubing.
The three ports should be .. one for the intake, vacuum line from the purge solenoid and the third is for fuel vapors and roll-over from the fuel tank.
If one of the lines is not leaking. Evap canisters potentially can crack. Sometimes the plastic ports break off or develop a leak.
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Maybe try a smoke test if you know someone that likes cigars.Originally Posted by MarkMelicia
Already replaced. Was hoping that was the fix
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Is there a way to do a smoke test at home?Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Maybe try a smoke test if you know someone that likes cigars.
CF Veteran
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I replaced that steel tube that goes from the fuel tank roll-over valve to the canister with a length of 1/4" ID fuel hose. The problem is that at the rubber elbow that connects to the canister which is 5/16" ID at the canister and 1/4" ID to the steel tube. I used a 1/4" x 1/4" coupling to join the the two. My steel tube had a pinhole in it that triggered a evap CEL. When I removed the rusty old steel tube I bent it and it snapped like a twig.Originally Posted by MarkMelicia
Can't remember the code number but it's the one for evap leak small. My buddy ran it for me. My metal line is really rusted. On initial inspection the rubber lines look ok but I have to look more thoroughly.
Edit: Correction to above. It's a 1/4" x 1/4" barb coupler not a 1/4" x 5/16" coupler.
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Edit: Correction to above. It's a 1/4" x 1/4" barb coupler not a 1/4" x 5/16" coupler.
Which coupling was it? The 1/4 to 1/4 or 1/4 to 5/16. Also is there anything you have to do prior to disconnecting the hose or can I just pull apart section at will.Originally Posted by CCKen
I replaced that steel tube that goes from the fuel tank roll-over valve to the canister with a length of 1/4" ID fuel hose. The problem is that at the rubber elbow that connects to the canister which is 5/16" ID at the canister and 1/4" ID to the steel tube. I used a 1/4" x 1/4" coupling to join the the two. My steel tube had a pinhole in it that triggered a evap CEL. When I removed the rusty old steel tube I bent it and it snapped like a twig.Edit: Correction to above. It's a 1/4" x 1/4" barb coupler not a 1/4" x 5/16" coupler.
Also would it be best to pull the whole line out from the purge to the canister to check thoroughly or replace the rubber section with line set along the firewall.
CF Veteran
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It's a 1/4 X 1/4 coupling. The end of the rubber elbow that connects to the evap canister is 5/16" ID, the other end of this elbow has a 1/4" ID to accept the original 1/4" OD steel tube.Originally Posted by MarkMelicia
Which coupling was it? The 1/4 to 1/4 or 1/4 to 5/16. Also is there anything you have to do prior to disconnecting the hose or can I just pull apart section at will.
Just be careful removing the rubber coupling that connects the steel tube to the plastic tube coming from the roll-over valve. I used a box cutter to slit the rubber coupling lengthwise because it was on the plastic tube so tight I struggled getting it off.
Last thing you want to do is dick up that plastic tube.
CF Veteran
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There's no reason to remove the plastic evap tubing from the engine bay, or along the frame rail, to the evap canister to check it out. Just carefully give it a close visual examination. Check for chafing of the tubing around the area of the brake booster. There's a cluster of tubing, etc. at this intersection that may have caused chafing. I found the evap tube in this area partially chafed on a brake line so if repositioned it.Originally Posted by MarkMelicia
Also would it be best to pull the whole line out from the purge to the canister to check thoroughly or replace the rubber section with line set along the firewall.