Will do...you 2 aren't the only people to tell me to check that out so I am going to get under the hood a.s.a.p.

 

Mine has a ticking injector. I'll replace it some day but it runs fine so I'm in no hurry.

 

Alright!!!, another 4.0 Liter oil recomendation debate!!! 2004 year @ later 5w-20, 5w-30, 10w-30 oils have the lowered levels of Zinc/Phospherous(ZDDP)(ZincDialklDiPhosphate), and yes our beloved 4.0s and 2.5s love this "boundary" lubricant. Only the energy conserving oils have the lowered levels though(5w-20, 5w-30, 10w-30). So, use 5w-40syn Diesel, 15w-40diesel, 10w-40 gas and thicker grade oils with confidence. Lucas Petro Oil Stabilizer is around 200 weight, so if youre adding a full quart of 200 weight to 5 quarts of whatever weight to make 6 quarts for your 4.0, the thickness, or weight of oil is going up quite a bit. Why not just start with a thicker oil(15w-40 diesel) for example, that is already engineered with the right additives and thickness for.....very expensive engines....like diesel engines. 5w-40 synthetic Diesel for cooler temps or petroleum 15w-40 diesel oils for warmer temps are my recommendation for most all 2.5s or 4.0s.

 

Our pushrod 2.5 Liter @ 4.0 Liter Jeep engines like Diesel engine oils. 5w-40 weight for cooler temps, and 15w-40 petroleum weight oil for warmer temps.

 

Re-read the Motor Oil 101 link, please........5W40 and 15W40 are the same viscosity/weight at normal engine operating temp. 5WXX will flow quicker than 10WXX or 15WXX to engine parts at start-up at any/all temps below normal operating temp. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is below normal operating temp. 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 are the same vis/weight at normal operating temp....40.

 

to djb383 and the rest of you fellas I mispoke its been a long time I talked tech with guys threres only really one GEAR head I know #2 the rockers arms are on top of I-6 compaired to v-engines sometimes my 92 would make noises as described its because the oil somrtimes doesnt get up that high especially when hot and sometimes cold my gear head friend had 93 grand and used to it not all the time but periodically is that better thanks

 

to djb383 that pic you have posted is that an experimental xj how did you get the 4.0 to fit? Its probably better off road than mine but as long as it says jeep I believe see how easy it is to knit pick by the way I dont have digital camera to show my pics. OH and by the just cause its neebie by my posts does mean I am not a gear head 57 yrs. old had a lot of cars and worked on them just had a few cold ones when I made that post now I an xj fan and proud of it

 

Must be referring to my avatar, no? If I offended/upset in any way, my apologies.

 

My wife has a similar problem with her car.

If your oil pressure is low at idle and you have a leaky lifter, it will loosen up. When you rev the engine, the oil pressure goes up and pumps up the lifter and the tapping goes away.

How is your oil presure at idle? does it happen wether your engine is warm or cold?

 

I honestly don't know...I don't have the truck with me at the moment but I will next weekend so I can get back with you then about the oil pressure.

 

If it's about time to change your oil anyway, you might consider letting a qt or so out and adding a qt of ATF fluid to the motor oil (just not type F) and running it for 20-30 min, then doing a regular oil change. ATF is more like hydraulic fluid and has a tendency to get into all the nooks and crannies and act almost as a penetrating oil, loosening up most things that stick. It's cheap (probably have some laying around anyway), and may get rid of the ticking. Even if it doesn't, is it a bad thing to get a little extra lube on all those moving parts? It certainly won't hurt with over 200k.

 

nick, did you have a chance to try out any of our ideas?

 

yeah, I sure did...sorry, been busy with school. I looked for the part on the firewall that people said and I don't have that part on the firewall, so I'm not sure what it is, lol. The injector thing...not sure, there is a ticking so that's a possibility. I did notice that the joint from the exhaust manifold to the tubing that goes to the catalytic converter is dented up pretty good in a few places so I am wondering if it's an exhaust leak that is making the noise as well...idk.

My main problem now is that the a/c...something...squeels like crazy if you turn it on before the motor is warm...however, if you turn it off quickly and then back on...it quits...until you take a sharp turn or get on the pedal from a takeoff to quickly...and then it starts again, so idk, lol