Engine Swap Preps Advice & Suggestions
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Engine Swap Preps Advice & Suggestions
Hello, Forum-
I'll be doing an engine swap on my 2001 XJ next weekend and want to take advantage of the collective wisdom here, as well as make sure I get the most bang for my buck & time while I'm working. I am borrowing a friend's garage for (hopefully) just a weekend or two to do the work since I live in an apartment with no regular access to shop facilities. It will be much easier & cheaper for me to do preventive work now than pay someone else in the future.
First: for anyone who has done this before, what do you wish you'd known before you did the swap? Were there any tools or equipment that you didn't anticipate needing that slowed you down? Anything that the FSM doesn't do a good job of explaining?
Second: I am going to replace parts that are cheap and easy while I'm in there so I don't have to worry about it down the line. Anything associated with the cooling system is getting replaced:
Radiator
Water Pump + hard pipe
Thermostat + Housing
Hoses
But I'm wondering about the remaining accessories like Alternator, Starter Motor, PS Pump. They were all working fine before the engine went and are not exactly cheap to replace (+$100 apiece). Any strong recommendations to just do them anyways or let 'em go?
Are there any sensors or small components that are prone to failure and much easier to take care of with the engine out?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
I'll be doing an engine swap on my 2001 XJ next weekend and want to take advantage of the collective wisdom here, as well as make sure I get the most bang for my buck & time while I'm working. I am borrowing a friend's garage for (hopefully) just a weekend or two to do the work since I live in an apartment with no regular access to shop facilities. It will be much easier & cheaper for me to do preventive work now than pay someone else in the future.
First: for anyone who has done this before, what do you wish you'd known before you did the swap? Were there any tools or equipment that you didn't anticipate needing that slowed you down? Anything that the FSM doesn't do a good job of explaining?
Second: I am going to replace parts that are cheap and easy while I'm in there so I don't have to worry about it down the line. Anything associated with the cooling system is getting replaced:
Radiator
Water Pump + hard pipe
Thermostat + Housing
Hoses
But I'm wondering about the remaining accessories like Alternator, Starter Motor, PS Pump. They were all working fine before the engine went and are not exactly cheap to replace (+$100 apiece). Any strong recommendations to just do them anyways or let 'em go?
Are there any sensors or small components that are prone to failure and much easier to take care of with the engine out?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
New Mopar CPS.
Full can of PB Blaster or such
Ziploc bags, masking tape, sharpie.
Bag and tag nuts/ bolts for specific parts. Tape for wires hoses.
If possible power wash engine bay, clean new engine best as possible.
Start today soaking manifold nuts/bolts with PB, do every day if possible. Hit crossmember nuts.
Have an oxy torch handy if possible. At least Mapp or propane.
Jack, jackstands, engine hoist, maybe leveler.
Air compressor and impact would be nice. Breaker bar w/cheater if not.
Full can of PB Blaster or such
Ziploc bags, masking tape, sharpie.
Bag and tag nuts/ bolts for specific parts. Tape for wires hoses.
If possible power wash engine bay, clean new engine best as possible.
Start today soaking manifold nuts/bolts with PB, do every day if possible. Hit crossmember nuts.
Have an oxy torch handy if possible. At least Mapp or propane.
Jack, jackstands, engine hoist, maybe leveler.
Air compressor and impact would be nice. Breaker bar w/cheater if not.
#4
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
New Mopar CPS.
Full can of PB Blaster or such
Ziploc bags, masking tape, sharpie.
Bag and tag nuts/ bolts for specific parts. Tape for wires hoses.
If possible power wash engine bay, clean new engine best as possible.
Start today soaking manifold nuts/bolts with PB, do every day if possible. Hit crossmember nuts.
Have an oxy torch handy if possible. At least Mapp or propane.
Jack, jackstands, engine hoist, maybe leveler.
Air compressor and impact would be nice. Breaker bar w/cheater if not.
Full can of PB Blaster or such
Ziploc bags, masking tape, sharpie.
Bag and tag nuts/ bolts for specific parts. Tape for wires hoses.
If possible power wash engine bay, clean new engine best as possible.
Start today soaking manifold nuts/bolts with PB, do every day if possible. Hit crossmember nuts.
Have an oxy torch handy if possible. At least Mapp or propane.
Jack, jackstands, engine hoist, maybe leveler.
Air compressor and impact would be nice. Breaker bar w/cheater if not.
#5
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Drift pins/punches is the term for tapered bars I couldn't think of yesterday.
Surprised no one has chimed in with XJ specific tips.
Might also consider new motor mounts.
Free bump.
Surprised no one has chimed in with XJ specific tips.
Might also consider new motor mounts.
Free bump.
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#9
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
My tips:
1. Ensure the motor mount bolts don't bottom in the threads on the engine block, use washers if necessary.
2. Plenty of good music, save the adult beverages until after, i.e.
1. Ensure the motor mount bolts don't bottom in the threads on the engine block, use washers if necessary.
2. Plenty of good music, save the adult beverages until after, i.e.
#10
I am also doing the exact same thing. I have a 1999 sport. What do you think about the 1999 electric fan system compared to the 00 and later?
Last edited by senoiaslim; 03-22-2015 at 10:56 AM.
#11
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You should also look into how the motor mounts look and possibly upgrade them as now would be he perfect time for it.
Whenever I get a used engine or car, I always replace the water pump and thermostat but I have had bad luck with that in the past cars. I would also flush out your heater core so there is no possibility of any junk coming loose and floating around in your new engine. (Can you tell I am parinoid about my cooling haha).
Cleaning and prep work is key on making everything go smoothly. Get all the grease and dirt out of your engine bay and off the new engine. Label and take pictures of everything so you don't forget how anything goes.
Good luck and I am glad you aren't scrapping your XJ after the engine block crack on your other engine.
#12
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6
Oil pressure sender
Header to exhaust gasket (flat)
3/8 and 1/2 "wobbly" adapter
Lots of extensions for the top 2 bell housing 3/8 8point bolts
Torque wrench
I did do motor mounts. Very easy to do with the motor out.
Careful not to pinch tranny or fuel lines.
I used 26G (very small) colored wires to color code connectors.
KEEP YOUR BOLTS LABELED AND SORTED. as mentioned with the ziplocks and sharpies
Just completed mine a month ago after a rebuild so I didn't have to worry about VCG, RMS, etc that dealt with the long block. But it would be very good to do since its out in the open.
Header to exhaust gasket (flat)
3/8 and 1/2 "wobbly" adapter
Lots of extensions for the top 2 bell housing 3/8 8point bolts
Torque wrench
I did do motor mounts. Very easy to do with the motor out.
Careful not to pinch tranny or fuel lines.
I used 26G (very small) colored wires to color code connectors.
KEEP YOUR BOLTS LABELED AND SORTED. as mentioned with the ziplocks and sharpies
Just completed mine a month ago after a rebuild so I didn't have to worry about VCG, RMS, etc that dealt with the long block. But it would be very good to do since its out in the open.
#13
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Am I overly conservative if I want to replace the head with a Clearwater head now?
#14
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I personally would probably leave the timing chain as is but I also don't think it is very hard to change either so up to you.
For how much the new head costs, I would beef up the cooling system rather than replacing the head. Get a 3 core all metal radiator, the zj fan clutch and maybe a high flow water pump. I also like to wire the electric fan to a switch and have manual control over when it turns one. I am sure that most people here will disagree with my view on this though but thats my 2 cents.
For how much the new head costs, I would beef up the cooling system rather than replacing the head. Get a 3 core all metal radiator, the zj fan clutch and maybe a high flow water pump. I also like to wire the electric fan to a switch and have manual control over when it turns one. I am sure that most people here will disagree with my view on this though but thats my 2 cents.
#15
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
How do you typically handle having the AC lines evacuated? The FSM says that's one of the first steps, I assume because you have to disconnect the condenser when you pull the radiator. I was going to limp to a nearby shop and have them do it, but the nearest one wants $100 just to empty the system.