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Engine Swap Preps Advice & Suggestions

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Old 03-21-2015, 02:20 PM
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Default Engine Swap Preps Advice & Suggestions

Hello, Forum-

I'll be doing an engine swap on my 2001 XJ next weekend and want to take advantage of the collective wisdom here, as well as make sure I get the most bang for my buck & time while I'm working. I am borrowing a friend's garage for (hopefully) just a weekend or two to do the work since I live in an apartment with no regular access to shop facilities. It will be much easier & cheaper for me to do preventive work now than pay someone else in the future.

First: for anyone who has done this before, what do you wish you'd known before you did the swap? Were there any tools or equipment that you didn't anticipate needing that slowed you down? Anything that the FSM doesn't do a good job of explaining?

Second: I am going to replace parts that are cheap and easy while I'm in there so I don't have to worry about it down the line. Anything associated with the cooling system is getting replaced:

Radiator
Water Pump + hard pipe
Thermostat + Housing
Hoses

But I'm wondering about the remaining accessories like Alternator, Starter Motor, PS Pump. They were all working fine before the engine went and are not exactly cheap to replace (+$100 apiece). Any strong recommendations to just do them anyways or let 'em go?

Are there any sensors or small components that are prone to failure and much easier to take care of with the engine out?

Thanks in advance for any guidance.
Old 03-21-2015, 02:56 PM
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New Mopar CPS.
Full can of PB Blaster or such
Ziploc bags, masking tape, sharpie.
Bag and tag nuts/ bolts for specific parts. Tape for wires hoses.
If possible power wash engine bay, clean new engine best as possible.
Start today soaking manifold nuts/bolts with PB, do every day if possible. Hit crossmember nuts.
Have an oxy torch handy if possible. At least Mapp or propane.
Jack, jackstands, engine hoist, maybe leveler.
Air compressor and impact would be nice. Breaker bar w/cheater if not.
Old 03-21-2015, 03:00 PM
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Red and blue loctite.
Pry/crow bar(s)
Wood blocks 2x4 or such
Tapered bars for aligning parts.
Old 03-21-2015, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry's XJ
New Mopar CPS.
Full can of PB Blaster or such
Ziploc bags, masking tape, sharpie.
Bag and tag nuts/ bolts for specific parts. Tape for wires hoses.
If possible power wash engine bay, clean new engine best as possible.
Start today soaking manifold nuts/bolts with PB, do every day if possible. Hit crossmember nuts.
Have an oxy torch handy if possible. At least Mapp or propane.
Jack, jackstands, engine hoist, maybe leveler.
Air compressor and impact would be nice. Breaker bar w/cheater if not.
Awesome. Thank you so much, especially the tip about the CPS. Not sure what my buddy has in his garage but I'm sure I can beg, borrow & steal the equipment I'll need.
Old 03-22-2015, 06:27 AM
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Drift pins/punches is the term for tapered bars I couldn't think of yesterday.

Surprised no one has chimed in with XJ specific tips.

Might also consider new motor mounts.

Free bump.
Old 03-22-2015, 06:48 AM
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Oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front seal. Much easier with motor out.
Old 03-22-2015, 08:54 AM
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Great stuff. Is doing the timing chain worth considering, or is that not prone to failure?
Old 03-22-2015, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DCXJ
Great stuff. Is doing the timing chain worth considering, or is that not prone to failure?
You can check it because it will be easy with the engine out. You might just replace it anyway cus it isnt too expensive but very important.
Old 03-22-2015, 10:12 AM
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My tips:
1. Ensure the motor mount bolts don't bottom in the threads on the engine block, use washers if necessary.
2. Plenty of good music, save the adult beverages until after, i.e.
Old 03-22-2015, 10:15 AM
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I am also doing the exact same thing. I have a 1999 sport. What do you think about the 1999 electric fan system compared to the 00 and later?

Last edited by senoiaslim; 03-22-2015 at 10:56 AM.
Old 03-22-2015, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front seal. Much easier with motor out.
X2 on this. How many miles are on the new/used engine? If a lot, do the timing chain but if not, I would leave it alone. I doubt most people ever change it over the 300k life span of the 4L.

You should also look into how the motor mounts look and possibly upgrade them as now would be he perfect time for it.

Whenever I get a used engine or car, I always replace the water pump and thermostat but I have had bad luck with that in the past cars. I would also flush out your heater core so there is no possibility of any junk coming loose and floating around in your new engine. (Can you tell I am parinoid about my cooling haha).

Cleaning and prep work is key on making everything go smoothly. Get all the grease and dirt out of your engine bay and off the new engine. Label and take pictures of everything so you don't forget how anything goes.

Good luck and I am glad you aren't scrapping your XJ after the engine block crack on your other engine.
Old 03-22-2015, 12:38 PM
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Oil pressure sender
Header to exhaust gasket (flat)
3/8 and 1/2 "wobbly" adapter
Lots of extensions for the top 2 bell housing 3/8 8point bolts
Torque wrench

I did do motor mounts. Very easy to do with the motor out.

Careful not to pinch tranny or fuel lines.

I used 26G (very small) colored wires to color code connectors.

KEEP YOUR BOLTS LABELED AND SORTED. as mentioned with the ziplocks and sharpies

Just completed mine a month ago after a rebuild so I didn't have to worry about VCG, RMS, etc that dealt with the long block. But it would be very good to do since its out in the open.
Old 03-22-2015, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GRohr
X2 on this. How many miles are on the new/used engine? If a lot, do the timing chain but if not, I would leave it alone. I doubt most people ever change it over the 300k life span of the 4L.
107K miles on the new engine. I am leaning towards leaving the timing assembly alone, but the oil pan seal, front seal and rear main seal are definitely happening.

Am I overly conservative if I want to replace the head with a Clearwater head now?
Old 03-22-2015, 11:17 PM
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I personally would probably leave the timing chain as is but I also don't think it is very hard to change either so up to you.

For how much the new head costs, I would beef up the cooling system rather than replacing the head. Get a 3 core all metal radiator, the zj fan clutch and maybe a high flow water pump. I also like to wire the electric fan to a switch and have manual control over when it turns one. I am sure that most people here will disagree with my view on this though but thats my 2 cents.
Old 03-23-2015, 11:39 AM
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How do you typically handle having the AC lines evacuated? The FSM says that's one of the first steps, I assume because you have to disconnect the condenser when you pull the radiator. I was going to limp to a nearby shop and have them do it, but the nearest one wants $100 just to empty the system.


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