You can leave it in place if you don't mind working around it when dropping the engine in. Just got to figure out where to move the compressor so it is out of the way.

All of my ACs leak and never have any freon in them when i need to remove them.

 

If no one mentioned it already, you may also want to change the oil filter adapter seals while you are in there. The adapter is much easier to take loose with the engine out.

 

If you plan to build up the Jeep, you might fancy putting good headers on during the swap. You'll get better gas mileage and a bit more power. Upgraded injectors would be a good choice too. There are quite a few things that are nice upgrades and fairly cheap that are way easier to do with the engine out... Might as well get some of that stuff done now while it is all out in the open.

 

OK, was able to get the AC lines evacuated for $50 at a place around the block from me. Not thrilled at having to pay that, but I guess I feel a little better for not trashing the ozone layer.

I had a very good friend, fellow Jeep lover/owner and baptized-in-motor-oil gear-head talk me off the ledge of scope creep this evening. I was making grand plans to refresh everything on this engine while its out, but realized that realistically I only have a few good days in the shop before I'll need to evacuate my friend's garage. Thus, I'll only be doing what's necessary with a few exceptions:

-Radiator/Water Pump/Thermostat/Hoses/Fan Clutch
-MOPAR CPS
-Maintenance items (spark plugs/oil)
-Motor Mounts
-Exhaust Manifold to Mini-Cat Gaskets

Regarding the motor mounts, I'm going to use Brown Dogs. Current plan is to just use the BD MMs, but will order the BD Super Brackets if it looks like the brackets on the old engine are cracked or in bad shape.

I'll also have a fresh intake/exhaust manifold gasket & hardware on hand, just in case. Not planning on removing either of those from the new engine, but want to have the hard/software in case I need it.

For the radiator, I'm getting a CSF 3-Row (2671) and a High Performance GMB water pump (110-1080P). Not sure if I'll do the ZJ fan clutch since I've heard that clearance can be an issue if using the CSF 3-Row radiator, and also that noise and fuel economy can be issues with that mod.

Sprayed everything with PB blaster tonight...I stink of it, even after showering and am very lucky to have a wife that will most likely still let me sleep in the bed tonight in spite of it.

 

The zj fan clutch and the CSF fit fine in my renix but you do have to losen the ac bracket to remove the fan if the radiator is in place which can be annoying at times. The noise isn't that bad at all I think, I only notice it if the hood is up or I am excelerating hard.

You have good plan laid out it looks like though. Don't forget to do a good cooling system flush while you are at it.

 

IIRC, there is a freeze plug at the back of the block, inspect that closely.

 

Make absolutely sure you have one of these for the top two engine bolts.

To be honest, not sure how much off roading you do but if this a DD and you did not have overheating problems to begin with I would worry more about a good seal on the engine before the cooling system, oil pan, rear main seal and oil filter adapter. Much easier to do with the engine out like someone else already said.

Also make sure you pb the hell out of the four bolts that hold down the ac compressor. Thos like to seize up and break off in the bracket.

 

I am on the same wave-length, Sir...can't play in the garage properly without music going.

All the suggestions so far have been great and I really appreciate the tips for things I would never have known to look for. I still have a couple nagging and probably really stupid questions, though:

1) Do I need to drain the ATF if I am to disconnect the trans cooler lines from the radiator? I'm assuming "Yes" but really hoping for "No".

2) How on earth am I supposed to reach the exhaust manifold-to-minicat bolts? I can't even get a clear line of sight to hit them with PB Blaster, much less put a wrench on them. Do they become accessible when I pull the airbox, or should I pretty much count on yanking the intake manifold to get to them?

 

1) I pulled both lines completely out when I did mine. Just let it drain from in inlet outlet holes once pulled.

2) I would almost say stop worrying about splitting the man-to-cats. Undo the 3 bolts down by the bell housing and pull er out. Remember O2 sensors too.

 

Thanks, JamDeeper. That's good advice, I've already started spraying down that flange w/ PB Blaster.

So, I ran into my first snag last night: Mounting the new engine to the engine stand requires removing the flex plate (or so it appears to me). I did not anticipate this and had A LOT of trouble trying to remove the flex plate from the new engine. The FSM is silent to it, but it looks like it's just a matter of removing 6 bolts that go through the flex plate to the crankshaft. But all I did was spin the crank when I tried to remove them.

I'm going to come back at it today with an impact wrench & a breaker bar on the other end of the crank...any other sage advice for getting that bad boy off of there?

 

As far as the AC goes, I put the compressor near the passenger fender and moved the condenser over there as well. I used bungee cords to secure it in place. I looked odd but I was careful when moving it all to keep the lines from stretching and kinking.

I was able to pull the motor and swap in my new one without evacuating the AC. A year later and I still have cold AC.