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engine runs too cool-expert advice needed

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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:14 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Pretty bad when the best feature of an oil filter is on the OUTSIDE, huh?
No doubt. Props to whatever marketing guy came up with that idea though.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:19 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by salad
I heard the new ones will have diamond plate caps and sell for 50 cents more
Diamond plate for only 50 cents?????......sure beats a $6 nut welded on the end.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:20 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Diamond plate for only 50 cents?????......sure beats a $6 nut welded on the end.
Yeah, man!!

What a rip.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:23 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Diamond plate for only 50 cents?????......sure beats a $6 nut welded on the end.
DRB hooked up to the 88:
195* engine temp.
IR on both heater hoses at the firewall reads 176*
Heater floor outlet temp is 152*
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:43 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
DRB hooked up to the 88:
195* engine temp.
IR on both heater hoses at the firewall reads 176*
Heater floor outlet temp is 152*
OMG! It's not at 210.....that motor is doomed. Looks like all is with-in spec to me.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:47 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by djb383
OMG! It's not at 210.....that motor is doomed. Looks like all is with-in spec to me.
Gauge says 205. Has 195* Mopar stat. Can't complain about that.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:51 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Gauge says 205. Has 195* Mopar stat. Can't complain about that.
No sir, not at all.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:54 PM
  #113  
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I just wish the heater was warmer. I can't help but wonder if the heater hoses at the core should be warmer than 176*. Like the flow is somewhat restricted in the core.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 02:50 AM
  #114  
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You make me want to custom port my t-stat housing! talking like that. More water where? OK, crummy photo. There are awkward edges and protections causing restriction. The idea is that it's that's far from "ported". I doubt it's designed for crappy machining. My heater core is over 20, couple rounds of Aluma-seal, (to stop fogging).......Anyway, I wonder if there could be a restriction in some t-stat housings?
Attached Thumbnails engine runs too cool-expert advice needed-101_9901.jpg  

Last edited by DFlintstone; Oct 30, 2012 at 02:53 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 07:43 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
OK, crummy photo.
Wow, DFlintstone, did you find that off of a deep sea wreck? :P Looks like a bit of debris from the Titanic
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:13 AM
  #116  
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I thought it might have been from the Nina or the Pinta or the Santa Maria.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #117  
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I actually keep it front and center on my deck as a "decoration"

(it's fine. I just have it "on deck" )

Last edited by DFlintstone; Oct 30, 2012 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #118  
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On my '93 YJ I got 13.5mpg (4:10 on 33"). On my '97 XJ I get 13mpg (3:55 on 32")

Have you reset your guages? Turn off the car, off and on with key while pressing the trip button? This resets it, and makes sure everything is working.

Your sensor might be bad. What PSI does it show? Have you put a digital guage (meat therm) in the coolant (radiator cap) and compared?
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Let us know what the dealer says about this. The dealer may ask how the heater works.....devils in the details for diagnosing "engine runs too cool", no?

Mathematically, the factory gauge breaks down like this.
Thanks for this post!
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 09:43 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by CrawlerXJ
On my '93 YJ I got 13.5mpg (4:10 on 33"). On my '97 XJ I get 13mpg (3:55 on 32")

Have you reset your guages? Turn off the car, off and on with key while pressing the trip button? This resets it, and makes sure everything is working.

Your sensor might be bad. What PSI does it show? Have you put a digital guage (meat therm) in the coolant (radiator cap) and compared?
Uh a '93 YJ and a '97 XJ with different engines, gears, transmissions, tires, and aerodynamics are like apples and oranges for comparison dude lol

The process you describe doesn't reset anything. On digital instrument clusters that forces it into test mode where it cycles all gauges and lights to show that the stepper motors and light bulbs still work.

And um are you suggesting he open the rad cap with the engine at operating temp? After he fixed it with an OEM tstat?
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