Engine quits when slowing to stop light.
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Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2
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From: Upstate NY
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When approaching stop light Engine quits. If I put it in Neutral it will right away ,but wont idle. Checked Vacuum lines. No obvious leaks. If I let Jeep sit awhile it will restart and idle fine. Have no idea what problem is.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,290
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From: phoenix az
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6 cylinder
Originally Posted by dswwhitney
When approaching stop light Engine quits. If I put it in Neutral it will right away ,but wont idle. Checked Vacuum lines. No obvious leaks. If I let Jeep sit awhile it will restart and idle fine. Have no idea what problem is.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
STEVE!! What the *#$%# are you doing! Working on your post count at somebodies expense? (it's very easy to check a CPS on a 90 and earlier Renix Jeep, but the only test for yours is unreliable). OP, please hold off buying expensive parts and doing that miserable job. The CPS can fail when warm, but generally randomly, and not associated with idle that I've noticed. (still mightbe a problem)
I still have a bit to learn on the earlier systems, and am even less better off with your OBD-II. I believe cleaning the throttle body and the IAC, (Idle air control valve) would be a good place to start after you rule out vacuum leaks. Also, when was your last tune up? Old plugs with a widened gap will affect idle.(.035 is what you want).
I hear after sometime during 97 the Key Trick no longer works, but the auto parts store might check for codes free. Anyway here it is;
1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)
1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)
The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!
Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.
I still have a bit to learn on the earlier systems, and am even less better off with your OBD-II. I believe cleaning the throttle body and the IAC, (Idle air control valve) would be a good place to start after you rule out vacuum leaks. Also, when was your last tune up? Old plugs with a widened gap will affect idle.(.035 is what you want).
I hear after sometime during 97 the Key Trick no longer works, but the auto parts store might check for codes free. Anyway here it is;
1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)
1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)
The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!
Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Mar 19, 2012 at 12:52 PM. Reason: after sometime during
Here is some stuff Ive found and compiled that might help. I dont want to copy all the links
http://www.cherokeetech.com/VBull/sh...agnosis-Videos
http://www.cherokeetech.com/VBull/sh...agnosis-Videos
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CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hey, thanks Laredo. Too cool. (Idk if I would cut the violet wire!)
Sooo, it seems he was seeing about 1/2 a volt from the 97 CPS as well, (with true RMS meter)(I checked Btw, that Ideal 61-352 is discontinued/out of stock in the 4 minute search I did).
Very informative and neat that you shared that. Funny footnote. The "punchline" for his sensor test looks just like my Renix bummer it took me forever to find! (in the vid a shorted 02 heater wire, (over the front of the manifolds), blows the ASD fuse. (no asd on renix though)
Sooo, it seems he was seeing about 1/2 a volt from the 97 CPS as well, (with true RMS meter)(I checked Btw, that Ideal 61-352 is discontinued/out of stock in the 4 minute search I did).
Very informative and neat that you shared that. Funny footnote. The "punchline" for his sensor test looks just like my Renix bummer it took me forever to find! (in the vid a shorted 02 heater wire, (over the front of the manifolds), blows the ASD fuse. (no asd on renix though)
Last edited by DFlintstone; Mar 20, 2012 at 02:47 AM. Reason: -?
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