I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with the straight 6 in it and I just replaced my CPS and my ignition coil spring because my jeep wouldn't start. Now it starts but sometimes it just clicks like the battery is dead and then after a few times it starts right up. I was told it could be a solenoid but I am not sure. Can anyone help me with this?

 

Start by cleaning the battery terminals and all of the grounding points. Also make sure that the battery has a full charge.

 

I cleaned the terminals and I forgot to mention but the battery is fully charged, I'll check the grounding points too. could it be something else though??

 

Add a ground wire from the negative battery post to the passenger fender if there isn't one already.
Take all the other ground connections and clean them.

 

if you have cleaned all your connections, Checked the grounds, Battery charged.. If all seems ok, It could very well be the solenoid / starter..

Ant...

 

Does it just click one time or is it a rapid clicking? From my experience, one click usually indicates a short or loose/dirty ground connections, while rapid clicking indicates a weak battery. As mentioned clean/tighten all ground connections

 

It just clicks once, and ok thank you, if it is the solenoid what would bethe easiest way to fix it?

 

Try starting in Neutral, or wiggle the shifter a little back and forth before starting...NSS.
Tapping on the starter with something heavy unstucks things sometimes, also worth a try.
Connections to starter/solenoid all clean and tight?

Let us know how this goes, and we'll take it from there.

 

I replaced my starter a few months ago and it seems like the solenoid was replaceable. Just unhook the (+) and (-) wires and unbolt the solenoid. Most parts stores carry them. I'm betting its a bad connection. A couple days ago mine did the same thing at home depot wouldn't start at all...tightened loose ground and started right up

 

True

 

Start with this.



Renix Ground Refreshing

The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily.

The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:

Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.

The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:

Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.

Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.

While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.

Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.

First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.

A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.

A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.

For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely.

If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.


Revised 03-04-2013

 

I cleaned and checked everything (except the solenoid because I don't know where it is) and it is still doing the click sound.

 

You did all the stuff in post #11 in that short period of time? Must be a world record.

 

there's probably an app for it...

 

no, I did everything from the post before it. I didnt see the other one before I commente