electrical
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From: Kalkaska Michigan
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have been looking for something on this for a few days with no luck. My interior lights will not go out and i have no idea why all the doors are shut tight does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing my issue?
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From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
Could be the lil button in the door.. that shuts off and on when the door opens and closes.. But im just taking a guess.. If the circut is not complete the lights would stay on when the door is shut
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From: Kalkaska Michigan
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From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
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From: Flint/Asheville
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well then i would check the door bottom thingy, should turn the lights off when you push it. Does it buzz with the keys in the ignition and door open?
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From: Kalkaska Michigan
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From: N.J. Shore Area
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Engine: l6 HO
The "Pin switch" just makes the ground complete and turns the lights on. I would pull each one and see which one shuts the light off then replace it...Tj
Sorry, but need to throw this out there (don't be offended if you already know this)...
FIRST: Get in and close the doors. Twist the headlamp switch **** from one stop to the other (i.e., fully CCW through CW). Any changes? If not then go to next step...
NEXT STEP: Press and release on the lens of each dome lamp. Each lamp has an integral latching ON/OFF switch. Any changes? If not then go to step next...
STEP NEXT: Open doors, find the switches in each front door jamb near the hinges and lightly spray the retaining nuts with a penetrating oil (like WD40). Close the doors, walk away and wait a little while for the oil to do it's thing. Service each switch with only one open door at-a-time. Using a nut driver (or similar) unscrew the nut and be mindful that the wires to the switch may be twisting while unscrewing. Once freed you should be able to draw-out the switch and pull the connector off (good opportunity to give each conductor a light tug in each direction (from connector then harness) to determine the health of the crimps and splices). If the lights extinguished when you pulled the connector then you have found the bad switch.
If none of the above does the trick then the last remaining interior light switch is in the tailgate.
FIRST: Get in and close the doors. Twist the headlamp switch **** from one stop to the other (i.e., fully CCW through CW). Any changes? If not then go to next step...
NEXT STEP: Press and release on the lens of each dome lamp. Each lamp has an integral latching ON/OFF switch. Any changes? If not then go to step next...
STEP NEXT: Open doors, find the switches in each front door jamb near the hinges and lightly spray the retaining nuts with a penetrating oil (like WD40). Close the doors, walk away and wait a little while for the oil to do it's thing. Service each switch with only one open door at-a-time. Using a nut driver (or similar) unscrew the nut and be mindful that the wires to the switch may be twisting while unscrewing. Once freed you should be able to draw-out the switch and pull the connector off (good opportunity to give each conductor a light tug in each direction (from connector then harness) to determine the health of the crimps and splices). If the lights extinguished when you pulled the connector then you have found the bad switch.
If none of the above does the trick then the last remaining interior light switch is in the tailgate.
If they are like mine, they are different lengths so you could get away with swapping two of them but that may be a real pain. I found this out when i went doorless and clumped them all together. I put them all back in and lights stayed on. Realize certain ones were longer and switch till they worked.
sounds like you have a short to ground some place. need to get a wiring diagram and start testing the wire with a DMM. voltage drop test would be the way to find a short to ground. this is of course the switch is on the ground side.
Last edited by mattxj; Dec 20, 2010 at 04:26 PM.
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