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Electric fan relay

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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Default Electric fan relay

Anyone know where the electric fan relay is on a 96 Cherokee and how to replace it? If so please help me out.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 03:36 PM
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The box to the right of the engine, behind the battery contains fuses and relays.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 04:38 PM
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For future reference that box is called the PDC.

You can check to see if the relay is bad by pulling it out and temporarily installing another one such as the A/C relay. If you already know it is bad, you can get a replacement at most any parts house. Nothing special, just a standard Bosch type automotive relay, probably 30 amp rating.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 08:22 PM
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So I went through and tested everything and all comes up fine.

When I disconnected the relay and turned the key the fan started running and didn't stop until I turned the key off. But I tested the fuse and it's all good

I did notice however that one think seems to be missing. I may be wrong that's just how it looks.



Electric fan relay-image-154117392.jpg



Electric fan relay-image-2609523266.jpg

The spot that says AUX FAN there is nothing. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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We didn't ask but exactly what problem are you having?

I assumed that you were asking about the relay for the electric fan (E-fan), that is the under hood auxiliary cooling fan. This fan should not come on under any circumstances with its relay removed.

Probably save time for you to confirm that is what you are asking about and that is the fan that came on with the relay pulled.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 08:57 PM
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Ok so I guess I'll state everything from the beginning.

So I've been having overheating problems all winter but I never thought anything of it because I would turn on the heat and all was well.

Now with the hot weather it's starting to get too hot and the plastic tank on my radiator actually cracked.

So I just replaced my radiator and did a little research on why it could be overheating and read that at a certain temperature the e-fan should come on. So I let it run up to 210 and it started to go over and still it never came on. So I figured the relay must be bad.

It does come on with the AC and heat. So I know it works it just doesn't come on when it's supposed too.

So to recap it has a brand new radiator and fresh coolant and the thermostat is new-ish. Engine is running hot and e-fan doesn't come on at high temp.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:24 PM
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E-fan is not supposed to come on until temp reaches ~218*. 210* is normal operating temp so no problem there unless it goes on up.

How hot is it getting when it over heats and under what driving conditions.

What about water pump and mechanical fan? Assume you did a good system flush when changing radiator.

Thermostat is probably okay but I would swap for an OEM or Stant Superstat if you get back into the system and have some other brand thermostat installed.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Pelican
E-fan is not supposed to come on until temp reaches ~218*. 210* is normal operating temp so no problem there unless it goes on up. How hot is it getting when it over heats and under what driving conditions. What about water pump and mechanical fan? Assume you did a good system flush when changing radiator. Thermostat is probably okay but I would swap for an OEM or Stant Superstat if you get back into the system and have some other brand thermostat installed.
I believe water pump and mechanical fan to be okay. I saw no little metal shards or anything in the coolant after flushing and seems to be operating as it should.

System was flushed when the new rad was put in.

Most recently I was driving for about 45min-1hr straight in 80+ degree heat and needle was halfway in the red zone. When I shut the jeep off is when my tank cracked.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:51 PM
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No question you have a problem if needle was in red zone under those driving conditions and e-fan should have been on. However, lack of e-fan is not your problem.

No bits of metal does not necessarily mean pump is okay.

Maybe just me but I would change out pump and mechanical fan clutch just as a matter of course unless you are sure they are good. Perhaps someone else will chime in with suggestions but I'm not sure what else would send temps into the red.

Checking under hood temps with an IR thermometer will verify temperatures but with your cracked rad and readings, it appears you do have an actual problem.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Pelican
No question you have a problem if needle was in red zone under those driving conditions and e-fan should have been on. However, lack of e-fan is not your problem. No bits of metal does not necessarily mean pump is okay. Maybe just me but I would change out pump and mechanical fan clutch just as a matter of course unless you are sure they are good. Perhaps someone else will chime in with suggestions but I'm not sure what else would send temps into the red. Checking under hood temps with an IR thermometer will verify temperatures but with your cracked rad and readings, it appears you do have an actual problem.
Thank you or your suggestions.

I've been trying to diagnose a specific problem and going through everything I've read and seen on the internet and i know there is a problem I just don't know what.

I mean I'm really not looking to spend a ton of money or get into a ton of work as I just replaced the rad and that really sucked lol

If I where to replace water pump and fan clutch with OEM parts how much do you think it would cost and how much work do you think it would be?

I hate to sound like a lazy guy but I've been fixing something different every week a and I can't even tell you the last time I've been out wheelin hahaha I get nervous even taking it out anymore with fear that I may not even be able to get it home.
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 12:42 AM
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It's late but just as another thought. OEM is always good, particularly for things like sensors but there is really no reason for OEM on the water pump or fan clutch. I don't know what sort of off-roading you do and others are better qualified for suggestions if you are into heavy duty high temp crawling. A quick look at Rockauto will give you some base prices -- $100 or so to start.

I think there is currently a thread running where someone says he can change out a fan clutch in 20 mins. When I did mine, I was doing the whole system but I would guess you could do the pump and clutch in two or three hours gross total. Anyone? They are not technically difficult at all but of course the first time always turns up some kind of unanticipated fun.

Just some thoughts subject to refinement. NAPA will have quality components.

Get back after you think about this.
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 03:56 AM
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Hey guys, mine is different (it would be nice if your info told us what year), 90, the Efan switch is in the Rad, drivers side, Idk if it's still there in 96, (might be). See if you have a deal there on drivers left on the rad with wires near the airbox. Otherwise it's on the T-stat housing....the relay needs a ground at 85, with power at 86, (to shoot the real power from 30 out 87) (see the relay diagram in my signature.
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 09:42 AM
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I'm glad you're on and hope you can help with suggestions for cooling system analysis and parts as I'm a little lost when it comes to off road.

OPs first post says '96, mine's a '93 so not sure what your question is about the year. In any event, sensor (not switch like in the Renix rad) in thermostat housing sends temp data to PCM which controls e-fan as noted.

Last edited by Pelican; Jun 19, 2014 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 06:11 PM
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Thanks Pelican. I wasn't sure if the Rad switch went into the 90's or not. Anyway I was thinking that might be his issue. And no, I didn't look around to see if he posted his year somewhere. It should be right there in his info.
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