Eating through distributer caps

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Mar 12, 2014 | 01:50 PM

#16

Roler

CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 3,170

Likes: 312

From: Australia

Year: 1997 (RHD)

Model: Cherokee (XJ)

Engine: 4.0 ltr

Nice values, good ol' 4.0...

Mar 12, 2014 | 03:06 PM

#17

CCKen

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 8,357

Likes: 103

From: Canton, MI

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by RideRed264

Wow, that was some good info CCKen! I'll defiantly be holding on to that info for the future! I received a new upgraded brass cap and rotor for free from the auto parts store, so I'll give this one a try for now. My plugs are champion RC12LYC's, and seem to be just below "like new" quality. Every one was gapped at .045, so I adjusted them to .035 using the method above. While the plugs were out, I also did a compression check just for the fun of it. "front to back": 166,181,179,173,175,175.

RC12LYC plugs are cool for your year.

.045 gap may have been a prime contributor to your problem.

Whose cap and rotor did you get? Same manufacturer? Hope they weren't some communist chinese crap.

What about plug cables? You should upgrade all the parts in the ignition sytem (plugs, cables, cap and rotor), to eliminate any variable.

Mar 12, 2014 | 04:53 PM

#18

RideRed264

Thread Starter

Junior Member

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 50

Likes: 0

From: Muskegon, Mi

Year: 1997

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

The cap and rotor are BWD again. I also got some BWD plug wires.

Mar 12, 2014 | 06:43 PM

#19

CCKen

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 8,357

Likes: 103

From: Canton, MI

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Remember what I said about Dielectric grease.

Good luck.

Mar 12, 2014 | 06:47 PM

#20

Roler

CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 3,170

Likes: 312

From: Australia

Year: 1997 (RHD)

Model: Cherokee (XJ)

Engine: 4.0 ltr

I've heard quite a few folks around here smearing that Non conductive stuff on all kinds of electrical connections...instead of around...

Mar 13, 2014 | 01:25 AM

#21

DFlintstone

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2011

Posts: 10,489

Likes: 24

From: Nor-Cal Coast

Year: 90,84

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0,2.5

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roler

I've heard quite a few folks around here smearing that Non conductive stuff on all kinds of electrical connections...instead of around...

I do that. I've been putting regular bearing grease on my battery terminals. Inside and out for nearly 20 years. (if you check my last 6000 post's you won't find that mentioned). I guess where it's metal on metal, the grease doesn't hurt. Because of the surrounding grease, it remains metal on metal, with little, or no gasses or oxygen to cause corrosion. I'm not recommending it, I just happily never have issues with corrosion and oxidation on my own, personal battery terminals.

I still put dielectric grease on wiring connectors I want protected. A dry crimp/pressed connection works fine with no "conducting" grease. Keeping water and oxygen out ot there can only help.

Again, that's just me...I juess there is "Oxyguard" or something like that. So far I'm m fine doing my own thing.

Mar 13, 2014 | 04:55 AM

#22

Roler

CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 3,170

Likes: 312

From: Australia

Year: 1997 (RHD)

Model: Cherokee (XJ)

Engine: 4.0 ltr

It sure keeps moisture out and corrosion away. And it should. Battery terminals should not cause issue, because of the type of connection and the force of the clamp.
However, what I do not fully understand is why people for instance smear the inside of their NSS full of non-conductive grease (well, you would likely not even want a conductive grease in there anyway, too make shorting possible, so it's could be a nice discussion anyway). But to put that on a sensor with tiny little contacts that are sensitive for dirt and gunk build-up !? Yes, around it to seal from water/moisture/dust etc.

And D, I think you have just been lucky the past 20 years lol
I'm going through the past 6000 posts, man what a journey