Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

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Old 07-09-2016, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker
I used 14 gauge wire.
I bought a 35 amp toggle switch made like this.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/si...0947&ppt=C0335
Massive overkill!

But not a problem. Not the best choice, but probably workable. Follow along.

Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker
I think ran a red wire from the red battery post to the top screw on the toggle.
Hmmm. "I think...." Thats a bit scary. More on that later.

Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker
I then ran a red wire from the fan yellow wire to the bottom screw on the toggle.
Probably not right, but maybe.

Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker
I then ran a ground wire from the fan to a bolt and a separate ground wire from the middle screw on the toggle to the same bolt.
Right there is your problem. There should be no ground at the switch. You wired in a dead short.

Let's take a look at your switch. Here's the description:

3 position, ... single pole, double throw, "on"- normally "off"-"on"
This is telling you that you have some options for wiring this switch, to accomplish different things.

You can really get creative with this, but you just want a simple on-off configuration, so lets figure that out.

You need to put power from the battery in one terminal, and get it out a different terminal, and you need it to be off when the switch is in one position, and on when it's in the other position.

See where it says, "single pole"? That means you can only have one circuit on this switch (basically). Some switches are double pole, which would allow you to turn on and off both power AND ground, for example. For your purpose, single pole is just what you want, so we're good there.

Now, what's this "double throw" business? Well, a single throw would be the simplest kind of switch, like a light switch in your house. Like this:



It's pretty hard to get that wrong. No matter how you wire it, you're right.


What you have is like this (functionally):





See the three terminals? You sort of have two switches here, or two sides. One power connection (the center) so it's one pole. But it can go two different ways. We call this two throws. This is a single pole, double throw switch (SPDT). This could be used to switch power between two different loads by putting power IN to the center terminal, and connecting the other two to the two different loads.

That's not what you want. But don't panic yet. We're still good.

Now, what is this business?
"on"- normally "off"-"on"
You've got an ignition switch. It's electrically the same as that knife switch above, but it's got SPRINGS. Why? We want an ignition switch to be ON one circuit (the starter) for only as long as we hold it on. When we release it, we want it OFF. That's what the "normally "off"-"on" part means. One throw of your switch is spring loaded so that it is on only when you hold it in that position. That ain't gonna work for you.

What about the other throw? It's that "on" part. When you flip the switch that way, it's ON.

That's what you want.

IF!!!

If this switch has a center position, and then two other distinct positions. One should be a click, and it stays there (the ON position), and the other should be spring loaded and won't stay there, but comes back to the center when you release it (momentarily ON).

If your switch works that way, you are good. If not, you need another switch.

So, you need to figure out which terminal is which. They are not automatically arranged like you see with the knife switch. The center might be any of the three.

You need to use a meter find the two terminals that are connected (ON) when the switch is flipped that direction.

Then you wire power in to one, and out of the other, and there is no ground connected to the switch at all.

Where to put the power in? Find the two that connect when the switch is ON, and flip a coin. Doesn't matter.

(Yes, there's a reason to prefer one way over the other, but I don't want to confuse you. Either way will be fine as long as your unused terminal is not allowed to contact any ground.)

Chew on that and let me know if you have questions.

And no, NO PAPERCLIPS!!!!
Old 07-09-2016, 10:05 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker
The fan came on.
It's rocket science to me at this point on my life but I'm learning a little at a time.

EDIT: I'm supposed to be taking a trip tomorrow and will be driving through a bunch of small times.

I'm afraid in traffic lights it will overheat especially since it's going to be 100.

Would it be ok/safe to drive with a paperclip or jumper wire for a week.
Jumper wire would be fine. Then, replace the switch in the radiator.
Old 07-09-2016, 07:14 PM
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Note from DJ
Cruiser you understand the Renix Jeep I give you grate credit for all I have learned from your post.

But OP stated in his opening post that the fan “It never kicked on at 217” and that fan switch is on the cooler side of the radiator.

I almost think OP got gun shy over a marginal temperature reading as many posters do over the normal operating temperature of their Jeeps.

What is your thoughts on this?

Last edited by djgrayxj; 07-09-2016 at 07:17 PM.
Old 07-09-2016, 09:18 PM
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Supposed to come on about 215* taking into account it's location in the radiator.
Old 07-09-2016, 10:35 PM
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Note from DJ
Thanks cruiser; I will add this information in by electric fan folder.
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