Dual Filament Bulbs
#1
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Dual Filament Bulbs
I'm slowly transitioning to all LED and noticed that the lights under my headlights (turn indicators/hazards) are a dual filament bulb... why? The turn indicators and hazards illuminate the same filament, the other one does nothing, ever.
#2
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
They will work with the same LEDs as the others. If you are using colored LEDs, the turn signals get filtered green.
The dual filament bulbs may have been brighter? I don't remember mine having dual filament bulbs there, but maybe....
The dual filament bulbs may have been brighter? I don't remember mine having dual filament bulbs there, but maybe....
#3
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I'm not sure about that, since my rear turn indicators use a bulb with a single contact (center) while the front indicators use an amber bulb with dual contacts (not center). I've never seen dual filaments used strictly to make a bulb brighter, they typically serve two purposes, like the running light/brake light, which uses a similar dual filament bulb.
#5
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The problem I'm having is that dual-filament LEDs are more expensive but more importantly, I've not been able to find them in amber. Since the lens is clear, I must use an amber LED. I may just cut the socket off and splice in a single filament socket.
#6
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Year: 1988
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Oops, sorry about this, but I was thinking you were asking about the dash lights. My bad. :/
I just changed my front turn signal bulbs too, and IIRC they were 1057 amber bulbs with a single filament....and cheap. You wouldn't need to swap sockets for a single element bulb. You could just bridge the two + leads.
I just changed my front turn signal bulbs too, and IIRC they were 1057 amber bulbs with a single filament....and cheap. You wouldn't need to swap sockets for a single element bulb. You could just bridge the two + leads.
#7
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The other filament is for parking lights. My driver's side bulb was missing the filament (it was rattling around inside the bulb) and the passenger side just isn't working (socket problem). I moved the bulb from the passenger side to the driver's side and it lit up when my headlights were on. Thanks for making me think outside the box, Crazy 8.
The other filament is for parking lights. My driver's side bulb was missing the filament (it was rattling around inside the bulb) and the passenger side just isn't working (socket problem). I moved the bulb from the passenger side to the driver's side and it lit up when my headlights were on. Thanks for making me think outside the box, Crazy 8.
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#8
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hey there Jeff. Maybe post up what you find. I've bought various Led bulbs with the 1156 single, and 1157, double style sockets. I wasn't positive they were bright enough to meet code so I've held off. I'm sure allot of us would be interested in the right Led replacements at the right price. Red lights are better on the rear of the Jeep, than in the rear view mirror !
(I'd suppose yellow could replace Amber )
(I'd suppose yellow could replace Amber )
#9
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Hey there Jeff. Maybe post up what you find. I've bought various Led bulbs with the 1156 single, and 1157, double style sockets. I wasn't positive they were bright enough to meet code so I've held off. I'm sure allot of us would be interested in the right Led replacements at the right price. Red lights are better on the rear of the Jeep, than in the rear view mirror !
(I'd suppose yellow could replace Amber )
(I'd suppose yellow could replace Amber )
First, you'll need to replace your load-dependent flasher relays with electronic units. I used the Novita LL552 from Auto Zone for $6.99 each.
Front:
Side Markers: (2) 194 (Amber) $12.99/pair
Parking/Turn Indicator: (2) 2057 (Amber) $19.99/pair
Rear:
Side Markers: (2) 194 (Red) $12.99/pair
Brake/Parking: (2) 2057 (Red) $19.99/pair
Turn Indicator: (2) 1156 (Amber) $19.99/pair
Reverse: (2) 1156 (White) $19.99/pair
License Plate: (1) 194 (White) $12.99 each for Philips premium
Total Price: $132.91
In every case, I used an LED that matched the color of the lens. The white LEDs look weird through the orange and red lenses. I'm experiencing a 10%-15% voltage drop at the bulb socket which isn't unusual for an old Jeep that had sub-gauge wiring to begin with but the LEDs are still brighter than the old incandescent bulbs. I'm going to play around with relays to see if I can reduce the voltage drop. I have just two more bulbs to replace, the small SAE Type 97 globes that act as supplemental parking lights in the rear housings. They have a common BA15s base so I should be able to find something small enough to fit.
I've replaced all of my interior lighting with LEDs but I'm holding off on the instrument cluster until someone comes out with a dimmable 194.
One additional note, I had to use a Dremel to modify the 2057 bulb and socket on the front parking/indicator lights. The circuit board that the LEDs mount to is slightly larger in diameter than the plastic socket so it won't push in far enough to twist & lock. I used a sanding disk to reduce the diameter of the bulb flange and a high speed router bit to enlarge the opening of the socket.
Last edited by F1Addict; 04-11-2015 at 10:37 PM.
#10
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Geez! Yea, I'll be right on that. Soon a I drain the swamp! Supper info, nice "heads up", I hadn't thought of the necessary flasher relay mod. Much thanks.
#11
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Solved:
The other filament is for parking lights. My driver's side bulb was missing the filament (it was rattling around inside the bulb) and the passenger side just isn't working (socket problem). I moved the bulb from the passenger side to the driver's side and it lit up when my headlights were on. Thanks for making me think outside the box, Crazy 8.
The other filament is for parking lights. My driver's side bulb was missing the filament (it was rattling around inside the bulb) and the passenger side just isn't working (socket problem). I moved the bulb from the passenger side to the driver's side and it lit up when my headlights were on. Thanks for making me think outside the box, Crazy 8.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxsP...djV3E1eHc/edit
#12
CF Veteran
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Check this out. Can't remember if it applies to 89 or not. It does to 88 and earlier.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxsP...djV3E1eHc/edit
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxsP...djV3E1eHc/edit
Anyone have an opinion on location? I kind of prefer the spot near the leading edge of the door, below the character line. Like this...
Or I could go with the factory location above the center of the flare. I just don't think I like it there...
Last edited by F1Addict; 04-12-2015 at 04:31 PM.