Do you even know what the difference is?

Thanks, djb. I vaguely remember reading this about 100 years ago! I have only gotten through 101 and 102 tonight...but definitely will read more this week!

I think I have concluded that I would have been better getting ino a 5W-30, especially for winter. Not going to worry about dropping the oil pan to check the pickup...as the folks here that have looked all seem to think that the pressure rise is about typical (and the slight longer rise I will attribute to the 10W-30, and the 3000 miles already logged on this oil change.)

Looks the same as my gauge on start up.

.....and remember what the good Dr. said.....flow equals lubrication, not pressure. 0WXX will flow quicker from the bottom to the top of the motor in cold conditions and it's the same vis as straight 30 at operating temp.

5 seconds is not unusual for 10w30 in single digit temps
switch to 5w30, possibly synthetic

I took notice this morning of mine. it was 9* when I left. I poor man primed it and it immediately fired and showed oil pressure in maybe 1 second. 5w40 t6 with 5k miles on it. 152k mile motor.

Pressure is one thing and flow is another. There can easily be instant/excellent pressure with virtually no/very little flow. If there's very little/no oil flow, there's very little/no lubrication, but the gauge could be showing excellent pressure. The quicker lubricant flows from the bottom of the motor (the pan) to the top (valve train), the quicker the lubrication process begins.

Yes.

LOL yeah CCKen Knows what he is talking about.

Your fine.

1. Electric gages have a certain amount of damping
2. On cold startup engines have enough residual oil on everything to actually run quite some time without pressure.
3. Even when pressure builds on gage it can take MINUTES before oil gets to rockers!
4. No foul no harm

.....and the more resistance to flow, the longer it takes to get to moving parts, especially the rockers. Seems like I read (back before the Internet) that most engine wear occurs occurs at start-up, when there's less than normal lubrication occuring.

This vid will show how Shell Rotella T6 flows is in cold weather check it out

Well, some guy just pointed me to this Motor Oil thread that is on the internet...from Motor Oil 101, 5th paragraph..."It is said that 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If we are interested in engine longevity then we should concentrate our attention at reducing engine wear at startup."

Most of that startup wear is the piston rings. That is because the oil quickly drains off hot cylinder walls. There is always residual oil left on bearings and inside crankshaft journals. Cylinder walls are lubed by splash not oil pressure so it takes a small amount of time to get oil whipping around. Letting engine idle 30 seconds will reduce this wear.

Dry start wear will be reduced when the lubricating oil has less resistance to flow, or splash for that matter.

I'd like to see that same video comparing/testing the cold pour/flow ability of 5W40 vs 0W30. Something tells me................no contest.