Drive shaft question
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,052
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
Year: 1990 2dr base
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have a wicked drive line vibration starting at about 45mph to 70mph. It’s a 90 XJ, 5-1/2” lift, automatic transmission, 231NP, D-44. It has a 1” TC drop, 4* shim and new u-joints. The TC and diff angles are pretty close but it still shakes. I do not have the cash for a SYE so I was wondering if anyone has tried a drive shaft with a CV joint and slip yoke? Do you think it could work?
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,004
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From: corpus christi, texas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
i am pretty close to the same thing as you, minus i have the dana 35 rear diff. i have zero vibration and i have nothing but the lift, no shimming, no tc drop kit, nothing. i wonder if hte d44 being a bit longer in snout is causing your vibes?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 2
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Year: 1990 2dr base
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I’m sure it is caused by the 44 being a little longer, less room between the TC and diff. I did not have any problem before with the 35. I did have the 44 in last year with no vibrations but had to pull it because of leaky seals. The only thing that has changed from then to now is longer rear shackles but I thought the 4* shim and TC drop would have corrected that.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
You need to get your self an angle finder and go from there. Obviously using shackles and shims did not get it. You need to make the tcase and pinion angle the same, or if you get a CV shaft it needs to be a straight shot on the pinion.


Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 2
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Year: 1990 2dr base
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Got one, the TC and diff are only a couple of degrees off parallel, fig 1. If I can build a drive shaft with a CV joint and slip yoke, I can pull or reverse the shims and remove the TC drop and it should be close to a strait shot from the pinion, fig 2. I just do not have the cash for a SYE so I’m going to try and make this work with a slip yoke.
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A couple of degrees makes a big difference especailly when it comes to a driveshaft. If you were to build a Double cardan shaft you would stil have to deal with the slip yoke. so you could have issues with it.
Your choice is either to build another driveshaft.. get your angles in check and right or get a sye and a new drivshaft
Your choice is either to build another driveshaft.. get your angles in check and right or get a sye and a new drivshaft
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