Drilling and tapping rusted bolts
#1
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Year: 2000
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Drilling and tapping rusted bolts
Alright, so i started to do the tc drop and snapped a bolt straight off. I've been soaking them for two weeks. Oh well.
I've never drilled and tapper before. Any pointers?
Can i use the new hardware that came with the kit, or do i have to make the hole larger than the original hardware?
I've never drilled and tapper before. Any pointers?
Can i use the new hardware that came with the kit, or do i have to make the hole larger than the original hardware?
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Drill it as close to center as you can, heat it up with a torch (mapp gas works best) then spray it with rust penetrant. wipe off, reheat, spray. Do this a few times the heat will pull the penetrant in to the threads. Use an extractor to try to get the broken bolt out, you may get lucky and have it all come out in one piece.
before you try to unthread the bolt get it as hot as you can, then hurry up while it is still hot and try to unscrew it with the extractor tool.
*****CAUTION*****
BE READY FOR A FIRE!!!..........DON'T GET BURNT!!!.........DON'T BREATHE THE SMOKE FROM THE RUST PENETRANT!!!......DON'T CATCH YOUR SELF ON FIRE!!!
before you try to unthread the bolt get it as hot as you can, then hurry up while it is still hot and try to unscrew it with the extractor tool.
*****CAUTION*****
BE READY FOR A FIRE!!!..........DON'T GET BURNT!!!.........DON'T BREATHE THE SMOKE FROM THE RUST PENETRANT!!!......DON'T CATCH YOUR SELF ON FIRE!!!
#3
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I've been told those extractors suck and aren't worth the time or money.
Truth?
That's why i was just going to drill and tap
Truth?
That's why i was just going to drill and tap
#4
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Year: 1988 & 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Originally Posted by shooter5635
I've been told those extractors suck and aren't worth the time or money.
Truth?
That's why i was just going to drill and tap
Truth?
That's why i was just going to drill and tap
#6
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Year: 1988 & 1990
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Engine: Inline 6
Originally Posted by shooter5635
Woah-ho-ho!
What are those little toys of joy called?
What are those little toys of joy called?
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Year: 1988 & 1990
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Engine: Inline 6
Originally Posted by BLKXJ 96
Drill it as close to center as you can, heat it up with a torch (mapp gas works best) then spray it with rust penetrant. wipe off, reheat, spray. Do this a few times the heat will pull the penetrant in to the threads. Use an extractor to try to get the broken bolt out, you may get lucky and have it all come out in one piece.
before you try to unthread the bolt get it as hot as you can, then hurry up while it is still hot and try to unscrew it with the extractor tool.
*****CAUTION*****
BE READY FOR A FIRE!!!..........DON'T GET BURNT!!!.........DON'T BREATHE THE SMOKE FROM THE RUST PENETRANT!!!......DON'T CATCH YOUR SELF ON FIRE!!!
before you try to unthread the bolt get it as hot as you can, then hurry up while it is still hot and try to unscrew it with the extractor tool.
*****CAUTION*****
BE READY FOR A FIRE!!!..........DON'T GET BURNT!!!.........DON'T BREATHE THE SMOKE FROM THE RUST PENETRANT!!!......DON'T CATCH YOUR SELF ON FIRE!!!
#9
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If the extract tool doesn't work, you'll have to go larger. Even if you could drill to the exact center, which is unlikely, the tap wouldn't align properly with the existing threads, and would ruin them.
#10
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Year: 2000.1999,1996
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As a Millwright I have removed cut broke fixed more bolts threaded rod etc etc than most likily all of you, but anyhow as far as using heat aka atorch whatever type and for your info oxy/ac, torch is the best hands down.( But most of you wont have one so map gas is the next one to use for cost reasons). As far as using heat if you know what your doing very seldom will it fail you,of course for exp. a bolt that is to rusted to be able to heat up can be removed with extractors,same goes for these you must know how to use them first and they do usaully work fine (size matching)So if you can remove the bolt etc and you can retap the threads you are good to go if you ruin the threads then well your answer is simple.Hope this get rid of some of the above myths.
#11
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Year: 2000
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Engine: Inline 6
Originally Posted by 413maxwedge
As a Millwright I have removed cut broke fixed more bolts threaded rod etc etc than most likily all of you, but anyhow as far as using heat aka atorch whatever type and for your info oxy/ac, torch is the best hands down.( But most of you wont have one so map gas is the next one to use for cost reasons). As far as using heat if you know what your doing very seldom will it fail you,of course for exp. a bolt that is to rusted to be able to heat up can be removed with extractors,same goes for these you must know how to use them first and they do usaully work fine (size matching)So if you can remove the bolt etc and you can retap the threads you are good to go if you ruin the threads then well your answer is simple.Hope this get rid of some of the above myths.
#12
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Year: 1997 & 1998
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The extractors Rudy pictured are also sold at Sears. The Craftsmen ones are identical in design (and are probably made by Irwin), but because they are labeled "Craftsmen", are guaranteed with Sears' 'walk in, hand the bad tool over, leave with another' warranty.
#14
the only thing I have to add is that Kroil is the best penetrating oil. I have found that if you cut the end fitting off one of those a/c freon charging hoses you have cold, free flowing freon. After you heat with the torch, immediately cool with the freon. The rapid heating and cooling of the bolt usually does a great job of breaking the thread rust/ junk free. Only downside is that the rapid cooling can (rare) crack the metal you are working on. The above bolt extractors work very well if you have some exposed boltto grab. My experience is that the extractors that you have to drill a hole in the bolt and stick the extractor in are the worthless ones. Good luck to you, broken bolts, screws suck. I almost always use grease on threads and stainless bolts when possible. I hate thread locker in almost all situations.
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