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Dreaded 'no bus'

Old 10-05-2011, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 5
Model: Cherokee
Default Dreaded 'no bus'

Okay everyone, this thing has been kicking my butt for a while and I will finally stop being stubborn and ask for help.

I had spurious 'no bus' and p1964 code pop for a while, but the jeep would continue driving fine.

So one day I was driving to work and my jeep just up and died on me about 5minutes into my way to work. Read 'no bus' on the odometer. I got a buddy to tow me up to a spare lot in nearby base housing to keep her safe for a while.

She has sat there since, and I researched, and recently started troubleshooting.
At first I jumped to the CPS sensor, took some resistances. They were a little off what they should have been so I decided to swap it with a BWD sensor from AAP.

I come back a few days later and find my radio torn out, my tow strap gone, and rear passenger window punched in(the smaller section behind the window, the actual window was blown out and I have a piece of plywood blocking the window to prevent someone from getting in).

After some rough knuckle hits replacing it, as soon as I plugged in the harness the fuel pump clicked on. She started up, had to reteach it how to idle (understandable due to it being off for so long) and drove it around the lot for a little bit to wake it back up.

Because I did the Durango alternator swap recently I decided to upgrade the battery cables to 4awg. After replacing the cables it wouldn't start up. Crank but no start. Hopped out and jiggled the CPS harness, and she managed to start for a few seconds before dying again.

Honestly somewhere( almost positive it was after the battery cables were changed) two of the wires for the radio were tapped together, and I believe shorted something.

Right now this is where I am at:
Instrument cluster self test passed (and connectors greased)
No gauges read, gas light does come on.
CEL
Airbag light
No bus was on odometer, now doesn't read at all(just happened today, still said no bus after battery cables and worked for self test)
CPS resistances are good
No fuel pressure at the rail
All resistance checks were good on cables, and good after installed
Crank no start

I don't know where to go from here...
-I know the fuel pump has not kicked on since the last time the truck started, but I think that was just due to the truck using the last bit of fuel to fire up.
-ECU problem?
-Bad ground I missed?
-Higher rated alternator, giving an overvoltage on a sensor to the ECU?
-Just another had sensor?


Thank you everyone for any help I get, this is driving me nuts!
andrewnp is offline  
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