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Drain Plug Diff Covers

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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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Default Drain Plug Diff Covers

Anyone know where I can get diff covers for my '98 XJ that have drain plugs in them? Preferably magnetic drain plugs.

Front: Dana 30
Rear: Dana 35C

Last edited by waltermitty; Jul 8, 2011 at 03:55 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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magnetin plugs can be bought at any auto parts store. Covers from almost any 4WD supply store or junkyard.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 93gc40
magnetin plugs can be bought at any auto parts store. Covers from almost any 4WD supply store or junkyard.
I was hoping to get the internet discount with a magnetic plug already in it. Diff covers always seem to go with the diff housing they are attached to in the junk yards for some reason. Shipping and handling charges usually cover the 10% sales tax we have here in TN so that part of it is a wash. the thing about the 4WD stores in this area is they think the stuff is worth a fortune because it's on their shelf. Same part, same mfg,...

I can understand they have to meet their lease payment and their utility payment and their volume isn't any where near what the internet guys sell so they don't get the volume discount...
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:03 PM
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Try these guys out

http://www.americanrebelmfg.com/odc/jeep/
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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My reading of the post is that he is looking for "Drain Plugs" for a DANA differential cover, and NOT the "Fill Plug".

The answer is: the O.E.M. Dana differential cover did not come with a drain plug, just a fill plug. The reason being, DANA would prefer that the differential be drained by removing the cover which is held in place with 10 flange screws. Once the housing is open, DANA is hoping that the enterior will be inspected and properly cleaned, not just drained of old fluid.

Of course, it's your differential now and no longer belongs to DANA, so I suppose it's your call at this point. Should you want a drain plug in your DANA cover, you would have to drill the hole in the steel cover in order to accept a welded in steel bushing with a tapered pipe thread, that in turn will accept a male threaded pipe plug.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:57 PM
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Doesn't have to be welded in & they are about $10:




Just remember if you bust it off while wheeling, you're screwed.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattpar
Thanks for the link!

Really nice diff covers...got immediate sticker shock! Why so expensive??? I want to get the covers with the drains for ease of fluid change and the other stuff...time, gasket scraping, mess, etc. etc. Also, I note that most of the covers I've seen on other sites don't have the drain plug even the they are more money, alot more in some cases. what's up with that?
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by webb'scherokee
My reading of the post is that he is looking for "Drain Plugs" for a DANA differential cover, and NOT the "Fill Plug".

The answer is: the O.E.M. Dana differential cover did not come with a drain plug, just a fill plug. The reason being, DANA would prefer that the differential be drained by removing the cover which is held in place with 10 flange screws. Once the housing is open, DANA is hoping that the enterior will be inspected and properly cleaned, not just drained of old fluid.

Of course, it's your differential now and no longer belongs to DANA, so I suppose it's your call at this point. Should you want a drain plug in your DANA cover, you would have to drill the hole in the steel cover in order to accept a welded in steel bushing with a tapered pipe thread, that in turn will accept a male threaded pipe plug.
The thing I love about this forum is all the stuff I learn. I've replaced the fluid in diffs many times and usually just pull the cover, place a grease rag over the gear assembly, use a 3M twistlock pad to buff the sealant/gasket off the cover and housing. I do clean the inside of the cover and magnet. Never really done anything inside the housing. I just assumed the magnetic drain plug would do just as good a job with out the mess. Opinion?
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by waltermitty
Thanks for the link!

Really nice diff covers...got immediate sticker shock! Why so expensive??? I want to get the covers with the drains for ease of fluid change and the other stuff...time, gasket scraping, mess, etc. etc. Also, I note that most of the covers I've seen on other sites don't have the drain plug even the they are more money, alot more in some cases. what's up with that?
sticker shock on a 120 cover? wow.... dont get to involved with modding your jeep
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by coueshunter
sticker shock on a 120 cover? wow.... dont get to involved with modding your jeep
You're correct. The truth is this is my first XJ. I had a lifted big tire CJ5 way back in the day...early 1970's. I thought the parts were outrageous then. Seems like every time I went out wheelin' I broke something. I also had a full size Blazer after I sold the Jeep. Something usually broke on that as well and the gas mileage was worse. Marriage, kids, house, well.... the bikes and other toys went by the way side.

New (used) toy and wow! Have the prices ever gone up! I may just stick to pulling the covers like I always have.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 06:07 AM
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If you buy the steel bushing and threaded plug in the hardware store for < $6.00 and take your cover to a weld shop after you've drilled the hole to accept the bushing, most guys would weld the bushing in the O.E.M. cover for $10.00 or less. Parts and labor not more than $16.00 and $4.00 left over out of a Twenty to buy a can of red or yellow paint. Oh! I forgot the new Fel-Pro gasket at $ 4.00 (someplaces less than $4.00) THAT IS, if you wanted "function" over prettiness. Some people have to have pretty, shiney, and sparkle, and that's what the $ 120 will buy you if you need it. You decide !
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by webb'scherokee
If you buy the steel bushing and threaded plug in the hardware store for < $6.00 and take your cover to a weld shop after you've drilled the hole to accept the bushing, most guys would weld the bushing in the O.E.M. cover for $10.00 or less. Parts and labor not more than $16.00 and $4.00 left over out of a Twenty to buy a can of red or yellow paint. Oh! I forgot the new Fel-Pro gasket at $ 4.00 (someplaces less than $4.00) THAT IS, if you wanted "function" over prettiness. Some people have to have pretty, shiney, and sparkle, and that's what the $ 120 will buy you if you need it. You decide !
I'm more into functionality but have my limits. The only thing I worry about is the thin cover cracking with the much thicker pipe bushing welded to it.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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I understand. You don't want nor need a whole bushing nor a 1/4inch size. The top fill hole has a 1/4 inch pipe thread with a recessed 3/8 ratchet drive receptical. The larger top fill hole is so the pour spout of a quart plastic jug of Lube Oil will fit into it w/o spilling the contents.

For the drain, 1/8 inch bushing will be fine. Remove the 1/8 inch plug with your catch pan under it and come back in 5 minutes and the pumpkin will be empty of lube.

The bushing can't be cast iron for welding, it needs to be steel. I go to a plumbing supply wharehouse, since Lowe's and Home Depot only have cast iron fitting for low pressure gas systems. Once you get your bushing you will need to cut it in half (across the diameter of course, not lengthwise. It's actually called a screw pipe coupling, not to be confused with a union. The coupling is taper threaded from both ends, and you will be only using one end into which you will screw your pipe plug, that's the reason for cutting the coupling in half.

There is no washer or o-ring needed with pipe threads. As I mentioned, the threads are cut with a tapered die and therefore the threads are tapered, both male and female. The farther you screw the male plug into the female coupling the tighter the fit becomes. There is a flexible substance which is called "Pipe Dope" which helps to seal the threads, but it needs to remain flexible in order that the joint my be undone easily when the time come for you to drain the differential. Remember, the top or fill plug is not holding back lube oil except when it is running around the ring gear, whereas the bottom or drain plug is holding back the total lube content whether the jeep is sitting still or running down the Interstate at the posted speed.

Hope this helps.
Webb
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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Thanks Webb! Great info. I didn't think about the cast iron part. That would be difficult if not impossible.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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In the interest of time I just yanked both covers and replaced with fresh and the additive for the limited slip in the rear. I'm still doing the drain plug thing which will be really handy for deep water wheelin'.
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