I just saw a thread the other day on this, but can't find it. My drivers side caliper is dragging and smoking, but not locking up. When I brake it actually pulls the other way, so I think its kinda seized. Is there an easy way of checking to see if its the soft line or the caliper that's the problem? Also will high temp bearing grease work for the slide pins? I have a whole tub, but no anti-sieze. Thanks in advance.

 

If it were me I would pull of the caliper and see id it can me compressed. If not, its seized.

 

Sounds to me like a caliper re-build is in your future, or new calipers and hoses.

just my opinion sir!

that would be the way to go i think.

cheers!

cpnwrench

 

Yeah, I picked up a reman caliper for 22 bucks, but didn't have cash for the line too. Just hoping I guessed correctly on caliper as opposed to soft line.

 

It's a coin-toss. You could've gone either way. More than likely, it's the caliper. For what it's worth, based on your description I think you made the right choice. You'll be disconnecting/reconnecting the rubber line and bleeding through the new caliper anyway. That's when you'll find out if you needed a line too. Good Luck with that...

 

Thanks, I'll need it. At least my buddy, the mechanic, is coming to bleed the brakes with me later.

 

Oh good. I was going to ask (1) if you had help, and (2) if you knew what you were doing (meaning no disrespect). That'll be a good time to determine if the rubber line has an internal defect. You see, if it has internal delamination (obviously not visible) then a small rubber flap-like projection can act like a one-way flow valve. This kind of defect can cause slow/no caliper return or poor caliper activation. I just went through this with mine - in addition to cleaning up the pad slides - which had severe deep notches in them.

Testing for poor caliper return is semi-easy: With the wheel off the ground, just feel how well it turns/spins forward. Have someone apply and release the brakes then check again how well it turns/spins. Is there any drag beyond a reasonable amount? If yes, then the hose is hosed and it needs to be replaced. BTW: I do these things in pairs and if you need one then I recommend doing both.

 

Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for. As far as knowing what I'm doing, this isn't above my skill level, but, it will be my first time.

 

Basic tips: Jack stand and wheel chock (for safety), use a flare wrench to disconnect/reconnect line at caliper while caliper is still in cradle, stick the line banjo fitting in a can to catch brake fluid (it gets messy), don't lose the soft metal washer (brass/copper - I forget) or check to see if the reman caliper came with a new one in a baggy, jockey the old caliper up & off from the bottom/back side first with a pinch bar or heavy screwdriver after unbolting/removing slide bolts, wire-brush/clean and lube the slide bolts and threads (anti-sieze), wire-brush/clean and lube the brake pad slides, if re-using old pads then make sure outer and inner are returned to original locations. (You said you were light on funds so I imagine you'll need to re-use the pads. That'll be okay unless they're wasted. Next time in there will be much easier.)

Other General tips: Inspect everything else while caliper is off and your head is in the wheel well - make note of observations or take cellphone pics - see everything but correct only a little, never let the hose support the weight of the caliper - use a coat hangar.

 

Cool, thank you, and pads shouldn't be too bad, just replaced them and lubed pins when I did my lift about a month ago. Only drove for about 5 miles with them dragging, and only 2 of that was there smoke when I stopped, so hopefully they are ok.

 

Well, don't think its the brakes. Took my wheel off and I can rock my hub from top to bottom. That isn't normal, is it? That probably would explain the dragging, but not locking brakes too, I think.

 

no that is not normal....hub is probably shot.

haynes manual has a good R & R procedure for that sir.

lookin at maybe $60- 80 bucks for that part I think.

good luck sir!

cpnwrench

 

Do you agree that would cause my inner pads to drag, if a bad hub were to cause negative camber?