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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 07:48 PM
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Question Dome light help

Hello all,

I have a 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country and I've been having a problem with the lights on the roof. First thing I noticed is that the front dome lights right above the rear view mirrors don't work at all and the back seat dome lights only turn on when the doors are open. But when they are closed none of the dome lights work. I've checked all the fuses that have to do with the dome lights and they are all working. And I don't think it's the bulbs because what are the chances that both of them went out at the same time, right? I'm thinking that it's a wiring problem... But how can I take off that black dome light roof panel/section up there to check it out? What are some other suggestions that I can try?

Last edited by ChrisDG23; Jun 4, 2011 at 11:14 AM. Reason: year of car
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Anyone recommend any action/instruction I should take into solving this problem?
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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I also noticed that my passenger side door has a messed up lock. Now, would I have to buy a new door or is there some way I can just replace the lock via good mechanic? I was hoping to do these things myself but the door lock seems a bit complex as well as fixing the wiring problem on the dome lights. Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by ChrisDG23; Jun 5, 2011 at 11:45 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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The front dome light not working could be a bulb because it doesn't work at all. If you want to look at the rear dome light wiring and completly check the wires I would remove the head liner. My rear dome light (2001) is pressed into the headliner and is held in by tabs on either side of the dome light. I have removed the headliner and the wires on mine run from the back all the way to the front of the vehicle. In chapter 11-18 of the Haynes manuel has some good pictures for removing the center overhead console. Once the head liner is off you can trace all the wires and look for breaks.

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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kenjen11
The front dome light not working could be a bulb because it doesn't work at all. If you want to look at the rear dome light wiring and completly check the wires I would remove the head liner. My rear dome light (2001) is pressed into the headliner and is held in by tabs on either side of the dome light. I have removed the headliner and the wires on mine run from the back all the way to the front of the vehicle. In chapter 11-18 of the Haynes manuel has some good pictures for removing the center overhead console. Once the head liner is off you can trace all the wires and look for breaks.
Both of the dome lights in the front don't work at all, whether the doors are open or not. However, the rear dome lights for the back seats only work when the door or doors are open but NOT when they are closed. How do you explain that? Do you still think that it's just the bulbs? You think if I change the bulbs in the front dome lights that they'll ALL work properly again? It's gotta be a wire right? Taking off the headliner seems complicated, I should get someone that knows what they're doing to take a look at into it.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 03:06 PM
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I think there are two problems with those dome lights. The front lights not working is one problem and the rear dome lights working with the doors open is another separate problem. Replacing the bulbs in the front would be what I would do to see if that is what is wrong with the front dome lights. As for the back light I would remove the headliner and look for broken or open wires to try and fix that problem.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 03:28 PM
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I had the same problem with me center console lights. There is a screw you take out then the console sorta slides forward and pops out. I can't remember exactly how I fixed it but I remember replacing the headlight switch and sorta adjusting my door jamb switches. Wish I could remember what else I did. Try the bulbs and trace the wires. The door lock is not too difficult if you have good needle nose pliers and some patience. Take the panel off and when you get into the door there's a retainer nut on the back side of the lock. Also attached to the lock is the actuator rod. It's held in place with a clip. Chiltons and Haynes outline the process fairly well. The main thing is PATIENCE
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 05:15 PM
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Alrighty, I did what you said and went to the nearby discount auto parts and they had a Haynes manual. I had a looksy(didn't buy it) and managed to take down the "upper center console". It seems to have been a faulty/loose plug that goes right above/nearest to the compass screen. I got the dome lights working again, but couldn't get the compass to work. There are so many wires connected to that plug that I just don't know where to begin, plus it looks like it could be that the compass screen is messed up. It woulda been nice to see how many mpg's I was getting, but at least I got those lights to work again. Which is great so now at least I can look around at night if I lose something.

As for the passenger side door not locking. It's 'cause the lock cylinder is loose, but I figured out how to get it to lock. I don't feel like taking the door apart because it seems like a mission. As long as I don't play around with the cylinder too much it will lock.

Any ideas on fixing the compass/mpg screen?
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 07:21 PM
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With the lights off one button should toggle the screen off and on. Not positive but I don't think it shows mpg. My 90 laredo just shows temp and direction. In that case its a standalone unit. The wires on the screen should be power and ground and maybe dim for when the headlights are on.... can't remember exactly. When the lights are on I have the instrument dimmer full bright to really see it. Use a volt meter first to find out if you have power when the ignition is on. Turn the lights on and turn the simmer up to see if that works.... after that a fuse or maybe the screen itself.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Slick761
With the lights off one button should toggle the screen off and on. Not positive but I don't think it shows mpg. My 90 laredo just shows temp and direction. In that case its a standalone unit. The wires on the screen should be power and ground and maybe dim for when the headlights are on.... can't remember exactly. When the lights are on I have the instrument dimmer full bright to really see it. Use a volt meter first to find out if you have power when the ignition is on. Turn the lights on and turn the simmer up to see if that works.... after that a fuse or maybe the screen itself.
Thanks, I'll look into testing that compass/temp screen, your right it doesn't show mpg...

Anyway, I took the door apart to try and find out what was wrong with the lock cylinder on the door. I think the pin holding it in place is the problem but I couldn't fix it. It's really hard to see the lock cylinder & the pin but I can reach up in there and feel it. The pin that holds it in place feels solid enough but for some reason the cylinder is still very loose. Could be that the cylinder itself needs to be replaced but I don't feel like it... and now I got another problem, when I put the door back together I stripped a screw and the machine screw where you have to screw it in to keep the actuator in place. Now I gotta go to home depot and get the same size screw and machine screw and try to replace that because when I open the door from the inside the screw pops out(from having stripped the treads) and the lever pops out a little. That's what I get for trying to figure stuff out myself. So now I gotta make sure to only open it from the outside.

Last edited by ChrisDG23; Jun 5, 2011 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 09:48 PM
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Is the actual cylinder loose in the door? If so you just need to tighten the nut on the back side of the cylinder inside the door. Pretty sure I used long needle nose pliers with a 45 degree bend towards the end. My lock cylinders were physically damaged on the inside so that when I put the key in I had to wiggle and wiggle to unlock it. Eventually it stuck and I broke the key. If that's the case a new cylinder is the only answer. You they come in pairs so both your doors will be keyed the same.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Slick761
Is the actual cylinder loose in the door? If so you just need to tighten the nut on the back side of the cylinder inside the door. Pretty sure I used long needle nose pliers with a 45 degree bend towards the end. My lock cylinders were physically damaged on the inside so that when I put the key in I had to wiggle and wiggle to unlock it. Eventually it stuck and I broke the key. If that's the case a new cylinder is the only answer. You they come in pairs so both your doors will be keyed the same.
yes but I didn't notice/feel a nut on there. If I get the nerve to open up that door again I'll feel around for one. I think it's just that it's loose but when I try to unlock it with the key I literally have to turn the whole cylinder. When I use my hand(since it's loose) to hold it in place and try to turn it, the center part where it's supposed to turn doesn't budge at all. I'll try to tighten the nut and see if that does it. What happened was I think someone tried to pop out the cylinder to try to steal the car so it is probably damaged.

btw, the machine screw that goes right under the lever to open the door on the actuator, the anchor piece that holds it in place that clips in the inside of the door. You think I can find that in home depot? If so what is it that piece called so I know what to ask for? It doesn't look like an ordinary anchor/fastener.

Looks like a speed clip/speed nut clip...

Last edited by ChrisDG23; Jun 6, 2011 at 10:39 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Lol I'm not sure what to call it.... I usually stock up on these weird clips and fasteners when I go to pick n pull lol
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