That's a NO. Radiators are not very expensive. Replace it and any other old neglected cooling system components at the same time while you're at it.

 

Just to pile on...NO NO NO Old vehicles require more and better maintenance, not less. By the looks of the rusty stew in the picture and the "stop leak" idea, I think that poor XJ is probably about ready to be put out of it's misery.

 

I am willing to replace the radiator. So with a new radiator and flush she should be ok...right?

 

Also no on the stop leak. It's temporary at best and probably won't work on a tank leak.

I would do more than just the radiator myself. Start with a good flushing until it runs clean, then replace any questionable hoses, water pump, radiator, cap, and thermostat. Gently flush the heater core back and forth until it runs clean while you have the hoses disconnected.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/doe...4/#post3685856

 

Any suggestions on what radiator I should purchase? I am not trying to break the bank but want something that I will not have to replace in a month.
Thank you to everyone, this community is a life saver!

 

Just get the OEM style from your local parts store.

 

I agree with this, fits straight in, the OEM ones last about 20 years, and replacements, while probably not quite as sturdy only cost about $100

fancy-hands alloy ones have mixed reviews on fit, longevity, effectiveness, and cost more

 

I spent all day replacing the radiator. I did not replace the water pump as it does not need a new one. I did replace the thermostat housing gasket with a cheap paper one but not the thermostat because I just replaced it a few month ago.
so I got everything put back together and I added my concentrated coolant and started adding the distilled water and boom a fast leak on the bottom left of the thermostat housing. I took it off and of course the paper gasket is soaked. I plan on getting a better gasket tomorrow and replacing the thermostat just in case. I lost a lot of coolant. Anyone have any suggestions on how to fill it without flushing again? I am in Ohio and it is cold.
Thanks to everyone for the help. That leak really put a damper on my mood.
Always gotta be something.

 

Instead of using the supplied paper gaskets for the water pump and thermostat housing I went with FelPro's.
From what I can tell on their website with no gunk.
Doing the thermostat can be challenging to keep the thermostat from slipping out of place without.
But can be done.
Make sure the channel the thermostat sits in is nice and clean.
Sure the thermostat didn't slip out of place when you torqued the housing down?
Also good way to crack the housing so you might want to check that.
You don't need to flush again if you are happy with how it is.
Just do the job and refill.
Keep an eye on everything for a few days as the air burps out and refill as necessary to get to the levels you like to be at.

 

I like to put a thin layer of rtv sealant on both sides of the gasket, helps seal the voids

 

It also helps stick everything in place while you get the housing on. Some RTV and silicones tend to shrink as they cure. When I use it, I like to bolt everything in place with the bolts finger tight, then let it sit for a bit to firm up a little so it doesn't all squeeze out when I do the final torque. Or just buy a decent gasket and forget about it. The pressed paper ones suck unless the surfaces are perfect, as you discovered

I just installed the expensive FelPro valve cover gasket to replace the leaky pressed cork junk

 

I'm pretty sure I read the instructions for RTV once and they said run it down finger tight, wait one hour for cure, torque to spec. I'm pretty sure that wasn't a fever dream, but I could be wrong.

 

Replaced the cracked thermostat housing, burped the system and her temp gauge is between 210 and the tick mark before it. No leaks, heat is hotter and I now know how to change a radiator lol.
Thanks everyone for the help. This is a great community.

 

Keep this up, and you'll have to change your username to "oldhat".