What kind of volt/ohmmeter are you using? A digital, set at 20 VDC?

Where did you connect your (-) probe to? I use one of the gas pedal pivot mount nuts as a ground when testing. You may want to check the ground circuit for continuity by using your Ohmmeter and going from pin cavity 5 of the DLC to one of the gas pedal mount nuts and look for continuity (.5 Ohms max). Repeat for pin cavity 4.

The aftermarket remote start/alarm mod may have changed something. Without the wiring diagrams for these mods it's hard to figure out what took place.

You can examine the back of the DLC and see if the wire (Tan/Black tracer) to pin cavity 16 of the DLC is connected. If so, you can probe the wire with a straight pin and attach your meter probe to the pin and see if you get voltage. Use liquid tape to paint over the pin hole in the wire to keep moisture out. If you get voltage by doing this and not by probing the pin cavity, the pin cavity may be corroded.

If you still don't get voltage doing this, the open may be upstream at the headlamp switch. The DLC power wire is connected to pin 4 of the headlamp switch connector C1 (the big one). You may have to remove the headlamp switch and connector C1 and visually check the connection and at pin 4 and check for continuity of the wire (Tan/Black tracer) from C1, pin 4, to the DLC pin 16.

 

Try different reader or yours on different vechicle yet ?

 

Ccken


Thank you; I think progress will be headed forward. I can't view the diagram on my iPhone ill have to print them @ work tommorow.

But..

It making sense. I had an issue with my headlight switch earlier where it shorted out I have a previous post and pictures up on the forum.

 

So I unhooked my headlight switch and stretched the wired out looking to ensure there were no issues. Thought wire looked kinda kinked behind the dash where it connects to the headlight switch... Plugged my elec tester in for ****s and I HAD POWER to DLC WAHOOOOO!

Now I am atleast capable of reading the code. I just need to get the jeep to blow the code again.

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP

 

Good to see you got it fixed.

You may rue the day you fixed it though because it may show you codes that you wished you had never seen.

 

So I ran the jeep and it ran like crap for five minutes without blowing a CEL. So haven't be able to get a code to read.

Motor is def skipping when Tom go over 2000 and starts to idle rough around 800 rpm. When you give it skirts gas it will kinda smooth out but still runs like crap.

 

Try resetting your PCM using these procedures:

This very simple procedure will Erase the “Adaptive Memory” stored inside the PCM and allow a new “Adaptive Memory” to be developed.

After performing this procedure the PCM will re-learn and store into Adaptive Memory your engines performance characteristics.

Please perform these steps exactly as they are written, in the order they are written. This will cause the adaptive memory in the PCM to be erased and cause the PCM to go into Fast Learn Mode adaptive mode.

Disconnect the battery terminals and touch them together for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory.)
Reconnect the Battery Cables
Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine
Turn Headlight “On”
Turn Headlights “Off”
Turn Ignition Key “Off”

The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.

When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”.

The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.
This very simple procedure will Erase the “Adaptive Memory” stored inside the PCM and allow a new “Adaptive Memory” to be developed.

After performing this procedure the PCM will re-learn and store into Adaptive Memory your engines performance characteristics.

Please perform these steps exactly as they are written, in the order they are written. This will cause the adaptive memory in the PCM to be erased and cause the PCM to go into Fast Learn Mode adaptive mode.

Disconnect the battery terminals, negative first then positive, and touch them together for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory.)

Reconnect the Battery Cables, positive first then negative.
Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine
Turn Headlight “On”
Turn Headlights “Off”
Turn Ignition Key “Off”

The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.

When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”.

The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.

 

So that does more than the scan tool erasing the codes?

Also said first 50 warm up cycles? It's 14 degrees here and in not driving it due to issues I don't think I can afford to have to run n cool it fifty times.

Did I misunderstand?

 

A warm up cycle is starting the engine, letting it come up to normal temp, then shutting it down.

You don't have to sit there starting and shutting down your Jeep to get it to run properly, it will just take 50 cycles for the PCM to adapt to all the changes made in the powerplant management system, if any.

This procedure is usually performed after changing modules or sensors and the engine doesn't run right. It is resetting the PCM memory back to day one and letting it learn. Just think of it as being a brand new Cherokee rolling off the assembly line at the Toledo assembly plant, and one of the workers jumps in it and drives it to the parting lot. The new vehicle works fine without having to drive it around Toledo 50 cycles.