Distributor rotor play

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Apr 3, 2021 | 12:39 PM
  #1  
Should there be any distributor rotor play either rotationally or side to side? Or should it be totally solid and not move when pushed. Engine is idling ROUGH and got a P1391 code. Already replaced crank pos sensor and think the cam position sensor could be bad. Or rotor could be messed up. Thoughts?

YIJ,
JCCherokee
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Apr 3, 2021 | 01:21 PM
  #2  
It's time for a new distributor.
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Apr 8, 2021 | 11:24 AM
  #3  
Was not distributor, either the new cam or crank pos sensor that I bought was bad, replaced both and runs fine now.
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Apr 9, 2021 | 01:16 PM
  #4  
Quote: Was not distributor, either the new cam or crank pos sensor that I bought was bad, replaced both and runs fine now.
Neither of those fixed play in your distributor.
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Apr 9, 2021 | 05:13 PM
  #5  
Quote: Neither of those fixed play in your distributor.
It’s my understanding that it’s not an issue because the rotation of the distributor shaft is the centrifugal advance and a slight amount of play in the shaft side to side is fairly normal as well.

Unless you can link me something that says there should be absolutely no movement whatsoever, or I start having issues again. I’m going to assume I’m okay.
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Apr 9, 2021 | 09:23 PM
  #6  
Quote: a slight amount of play in the shaft side to side is fairly normal as well..
De[ends what you mean by, "slight".

Quote: Unless you can link me something that says there should be absolutely no movement whatsoever, or I start having issues again. I’m going to assume I’m okay.
Too much play in the rotor shaft will wipe out your cam sensor.
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Apr 9, 2021 | 09:46 PM
  #7  
Quote: De[ends what you mean by, "slight".



Too much play in the rotor shaft will wipe out your cam sensor.
less than 1/16” either side.
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Apr 10, 2021 | 04:31 AM
  #8  
Quote: It’s my understanding that it’s not an issue because the rotation of the distributor shaft is the centrifugal advance and a slight amount of play in the shaft side to side is fairly normal as well.

Unless you can link me something that says there should be absolutely no movement whatsoever, or I start having issues again. I’m going to assume I’m okay.
What year is this? I'm not aware of a centrifugal advance on there. That would mean you have the weights and springs under the rotor.
A few years back when searching for gremlins I took a bit of slop out of my just purchased rebuilt dizzy by adding shim washers , cant remember the company that sold them. Made me feel better but not sure it was a good idea or that gained much from it.
Crank and Cam sensors ..Its been demonstrated and proven that anything but Mopar is inferior for these 2 critical sensors to your ignition. The hall effect magnets are proven to be much stronger on Mopar meaning better stronger signals.
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Apr 10, 2021 | 01:35 PM
  #9  
Quote: Crank and Cam sensors ..Its been demonstrated and proven that anything but Mopar is inferior for these 2 critical sensors to your ignition.
Agreed, but smash a rotor tip through it at high speed and it won't matter.

I don't know what the specs are, but 1/16" of slop sounds pretty bad to me.
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Apr 10, 2021 | 02:08 PM
  #10  
Quote: Agreed, but smash a rotor tip through it at high speed and it won't matter.

I don't know what the specs are, but 1/16" of slop sounds pretty bad to me.
yeah if its radial and not up down play a new dizzy is in order.
Meanwhile I just welded my two rear UCA arm brackets back to whats left of the frame. Might lessen the noise a little. In the process I got a nasty spider bite on the elbow this morning. Benedryl and caffeine.
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Apr 10, 2021 | 07:39 PM
  #11  
Thanks for the advice guys. I’m j gonna run it till I can afford a new distributor. Also, any good install vids on how to do so. I understand you have to get it lined up the right way.
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Apr 10, 2021 | 07:46 PM
  #12  
there is a bush in there that is known to wear.

One of our guys took everything apart and fitted a grease nipple somehow

made a good writeup with pics as well, if I find it, will add a link
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Apr 10, 2021 | 10:01 PM
  #13  
Did a little searching. From what I saw, your dizzy is shot.

Quote:
It has a lot of up & down play, but also a lot of side to side play. Iirc it was more than 0.006. If I move the shaft up, there is no side to side movement. But, of course, it won't stay up.

I took it to a mechanic. He leaned out the carb to get it to run better, but when he saw the side to side play, he said I needed a new distributor.
https://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/th...will-a-rebuild -fix-side-to-side-play-in-my-distributor.7543/

These guys say NO PLAY: http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...or-normal.html

Same here: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...d-down.140593/

And here: https://www.s10forum.com/threads/dis...w-much.489162/





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Apr 11, 2021 | 04:51 PM
  #14  
Quote: Did a little searching. From what I saw, your dizzy is shot.



https://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/th...will-a-rebuild -fix-side-to-side-play-in-my-distributor.7543/

These guys say NO PLAY: http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...or-normal.html

Same here: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...d-down.140593/

And here: https://www.s10forum.com/threads/dis...w-much.489162/
Side to side is no good and up down is what I did to my / brand new/ dizzy with the shim washer. IIRC the concern with taking ALL the play out of the up and down movement was lubrication or should I say the lack thereof. But I did it and its been a couple years nothing blew up yet and I do think I noticed an improvement.
I used the one from Advanced was fairly inexpensive under $50. But you do have to change out that inferior cam sensor or 'switch plate' as they called it, for a MOPAR
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