Chumperdink

Hello All, Just putting this up to see what your thoughts are on the situation.

About a year and a half ago I did a tune up on my 98 Cherokee sport 4.0l

When I took it off my dads hands. I changed the oil, the Differentials lube, spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap.

I got a tune up kit from quadratec or teamcherokee not sure which company, but they provided me with spark plugs, rotor, wires and cap. Installed them and everything has been fine except for last week.

I started hearing a whirring noise, I automatically though it was a pulley or something like that but I traced it to my distributor. I pushed on the Distributor slightly and it stopped the noise. Next day started it up and the same noise, drove it for a bit and the noise stopped so it seemed like problem was gone.

Just today noise was worse. I took off the cap and It seems as though the rotor is rubbing real bad on the terminals under the cap. There were traces of metal shavings under the cap, and you could see were the rotor had shaved away some of the terminals.

I have ordered a remanufactured distributor, a new cap, and rotor from rock auto. Do you guys think I'm overreacting?

Also why after a year and a half with no problems from the distributor before would it seem to shift itself and start rubbing badly. Could it be a problem with the gear down in the engine block?

Like I said just trying to get your opinions. Thanks for the help/advice.

freegdr

Replace dist.

Chumperdink

Yeah better safe than sorry right? Just it is an expensive part. Also any tips on how to replace it correctly. I searched the forum, and from what I understand,

The 98 cherokee harmonic balancer may not have a TDC (top dead center) marker. So I just mark the old Distr, and put new one in same way, That sound right to you?

Thanks for the reply by the way.

Turbo X_J

It's 14 years old, things wear out. Mark the position of the rotor before removal, reinstall new distributor with the rotor pointing in the same spot, .

BimmerJeeper

I'd like to replace dist, rotor, cap, wires.
Can someone post a link on what exactly to order? 1998 XJ

Chumperdink

Damn The Jeep just doesn't feel that old hahahah Damn I'm getting old too!!!

I will be replacing it soon just waiting for the parts.

For your information, I ordered my parts from rock auto. I got the Cardone remanufactured dist. ( Has a core return policy), The airtex premium cap, and the airtex rotor.

I did not get new wires cause the ones on the Jeep have been replaced a little while ago.

The reason I went with Rockauto is the core return. And they were the only ones that had a cap that has brass terminals. (brass is better than nickle IMHO)

I called autozone and Advanced auto neither of them had a premium cap or a dist. Hope this helps. I am sure someone on here knows where to get everything upgraded, but it just comes down to what you want to pay. I have used rockauto for alot of parts and never had a problem with them.

Chumperdink

well I got the reman. distributor and it looked like it had been in a rugby game.

No way I was putting that in me Jeep. I bought an aftermarket distributor which is different from the current distributor, so I dont think I will be able to just mark

the old one and place in the new one. Additionally, I put on a new harmonic balancer a while ago, and from what I understand the old one may have had a zero timing mark on it.

I never payed attention to any marks on the new balancer and just got it on there without lining up a thing. My question, is it possible to get top dead center without having a correct marker on the balancer?

I read posts about setting the compression stroke on the #1 spark plug, but they all say don't forget to line the markers up.

I have got the will Just don't know the way! Any help is appreciated, thank you.

cmartin2112

Your balancer will have a little notch on it like this. Mark it with some white out or some white paint and match that up with the zero degree mark on the timing cover. That should be TDC on #1.

Chumperdink

CMartin thanks for the reply and pic. I have the marker on there this is true. However, I had replaced the old harmonic balancer, and I did not

set the engine to TDC before I took it off, or when I put the new balancer on. I think that marker is useless now but I am not sure?

I think I was supposed to line up the marker for future use but I never did. Just wondering if it matters so much to put the balancer at zero, or will I be close enough just getting the #1 plug at full compression stroke.

Sorry if this sounds confusing just not too well versed on timing and TDC subjects.

cruiser54

Balancer only goes on one way. It's keyed.

Chumperdink

Thanks for all of the help you guys. I did the timing set up, by undoing the #1 spark plug and bumping the engine till I got air pushing my finger off.

(First time my wife completely turned engine over so when I yelled ar her she told me to do it my self A WHOLE!! lol) Anyway, when I set the balancer up I was using wrong marker so timing was off,

The second time I did the procedure everything was set up perfect. 1. Compression on the #1 plug, 2. Timing notch on balancer lined up with zero, 3. Oil pump set to 11 oclock, 4. Distributor set to 5 oclock just past number one cap terminal.

Everything runs fine it starts over, and idles perfect, but, when I take it for a ride when I get past 3000 RPMs, or if I am hard on the gas, it stutters and misses.

Also a check engine light came on but I am afraid to drive it all the way to Auto Zone for the OBD scan.

From what I found in my research on here I believe the timing on a 98 xj is controlled by the Camshaft position sensor (inside Distributor), and the Crankshaft position sensor (between engine and transmission bellhousing).

Do you guys think this may be the computer relearning the set up, or am I still off on the timing. Any advice on where to go from here. Winter is coming and I need my four wheel drive.

Pease Help My fellow Jeepers!!!!

Chumperdink

Also I hooked up my generic scan tool from scantool.net, which is outdated but it came up with two engine codes.

P0320 ignition/distributor Engine speed input circuit

P1391 says this one is a manufacturer specific and to refer to service manual

Also when I took out the old distributor, I found that the gear at the base had some slight chew marks on it. Has that happened to anyone else? Anyway I hope I don't have to tow this thing to the dealer. Last thing I need right now is to get raped. Back to the drawing board.

kansas-klx

According to my FSM, code P1391 means "intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor".

cmartin2112

^^There's your answer. Have you tested the CPS?

alnielsen

A trick to help with timing your engine is to put a little red finger nail polish on that mark on the harmonic balancer. It really shows up when you hit it with the timing light.