I'm having an interesting problem. This is the third time this has happened where in the morning I'll get in the Jeep, start it, it cranks, fires for half a second, then dies. If I give it gas and keep giving it gas, it runs but as soon as I let off the gas, it dies. What I've done is sit there giving it enough gas to keep running for about 30 seconds or so in neutral, then gently putting it in reverse to back out, then gently putting it in drive to go. Usually, by the time I make it to the end of the block it will be fine. Weird. Doesn't happen every day, but it's annoying. (and worrisome)
Another thing it's doing now too, which this is the second time, is my gauges will be completely dead for a short bit, then come to life after I start driving for about 15 seconds. Both times that this happened were on the days that I had the above problem. First, while I had the running problem, then today a few hours later. I don't know if they are related or not, but who knows?
1997 Cherokee Country
Stock 4.0
Any ideas would greatly appreciated.
Another thing it's doing now too, which this is the second time, is my gauges will be completely dead for a short bit, then come to life after I start driving for about 15 seconds. Both times that this happened were on the days that I had the above problem. First, while I had the running problem, then today a few hours later. I don't know if they are related or not, but who knows?
1997 Cherokee Country
Stock 4.0
Any ideas would greatly appreciated.
tjwalker
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- Join DateNov 2010
- LocationIn the middle of Minnesota!
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- Year1999
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1. Freshen all electrical grounds. They are often overlooked.
2. Remove your dash cluster, clean the connector with a good spray of electrical contact cleaner. Add a dab of dielectric grease and reconnect. This usually resolves the dash/gauge issue.
3. Load test your battery. A marginal battery can create a stalling symptom. Then as the alternator runs for a minute or so, it charges up the battery enough so that the stalling symptom goes away. Load testing is free at any parts store and is the ONLY accurate way of determining your battery condition.
2. Remove your dash cluster, clean the connector with a good spray of electrical contact cleaner. Add a dab of dielectric grease and reconnect. This usually resolves the dash/gauge issue.
3. Load test your battery. A marginal battery can create a stalling symptom. Then as the alternator runs for a minute or so, it charges up the battery enough so that the stalling symptom goes away. Load testing is free at any parts store and is the ONLY accurate way of determining your battery condition.
Thanks for the info... By electric grounds, I've done a thorough cleaning of the batt terminals and cable connectors... is there another one that you are talking about? Starter maybe?
Seasoned Member
Quote:
TJ knows what he's talking about...one ground that causes cutting-out issues frequently is the one located at the back of the motor, attached to the firewall on the drivers side...give that one a lookOriginally Posted by brasscatz
Thanks for the info... By electric grounds, I've done a thorough cleaning of the batt terminals and cable connectors... is there another one that you are talking about? Starter maybe?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CattyXJ
TJ knows what he's talking about...one ground that causes cutting-out issues frequently is the one located at the back of the motor, attached to the firewall on the drivers side...give that one a look
Will do. Thanks!
tjwalker
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Grounds can be the root cause of many electrical gremlins. Refreshing grounds is NEVER a bad idea, and the investment of your time in this procedure is always well worth it!
You can't tell much of anything by looking at ground connections!! You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. Be sure to remove all paint from any ground connections.
Start with the one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall, as it deteriorates over time and is an area that makes it susceptible to damage. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.
Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.
If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support.
You can't tell much of anything by looking at ground connections!! You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. Be sure to remove all paint from any ground connections.
Start with the one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall, as it deteriorates over time and is an area that makes it susceptible to damage. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.
Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.
If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support.
Quote:
You can't tell much of anything by looking at ground connections!! You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. Be sure to remove all paint from any ground connections.
Start with the one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall, as it deteriorates over time and is an area that makes it susceptible to damage. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.
Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.
If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support.
Wow, that's great! Thank you very much! I had no idea that those existed, but sure enough, I went out and looked and found them! They are pretty gunked up from my valve cover gasket leaking. I will have to spend some time this weekend doing some cleanup on those. I really like your idea about adding the 6 gauge cable to my negative terminal to my rad support... the largest extra wire I have currently is 18 gauge, so I'll be making a trip to the store. Thank you so much again!Originally Posted by tjwalker
Grounds can be the root cause of many electrical gremlins. Refreshing grounds is NEVER a bad idea, and the investment of your time in this procedure is always well worth it!You can't tell much of anything by looking at ground connections!! You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. Be sure to remove all paint from any ground connections.
Start with the one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall, as it deteriorates over time and is an area that makes it susceptible to damage. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.
Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.
If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support.




