Did I install my Throttle body incorrectly?
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Seasoned Member


Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 404
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
So the jeep had an idle issue when it first started up or if I was at light, it would sputter than eventually stall. So after reading around the forum I decided I needed to clean the throttle body and IAC. The IAC looked fairly shiny (PO may have installed one new or from JY) but the throttle body itself was practically black. (see before and after pictures below)
I get everything hooked up and followed cruiser54's specs to adjust my tps. Refrence voltage was 4.7 and adjusted the TPS to match 82% at 3.85v.
I also just finished replacing my spark plugs/wires/distrib cap/rotor.
After the throttle body was installed it did it's typical crank over and sounded good, was holding around 1k rpm for about 15 seconds or so, then it started to slowly drop down until the jeep started to sputter/shake. I killed the engine and restarted it up. This time I a heard a "hissing" sound...? not sure if hissing is the correct term but that's what I'm using for the moment. The jeep then wanted to die after just a few seconds, so again I killed the engine. I took a look a throttle body and the connectors are all in place and what not but I'm not sure about the two plugins in the back (see pics below). I cranked the jeep over again and this time it didn't even start, It attempted to but then I heard another noise, kind of like a grinding sound... Is the throttle body hooked up incorrectly? It seems like it might not be getting any gas? Pleasssee help!





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The last image is what I'm really curious about... There seems to be two holes on the Throttle body, I can only find one cable in my jeep that is loose that would seem like a fit.
Thoughts?
I get everything hooked up and followed cruiser54's specs to adjust my tps. Refrence voltage was 4.7 and adjusted the TPS to match 82% at 3.85v.
I also just finished replacing my spark plugs/wires/distrib cap/rotor.
After the throttle body was installed it did it's typical crank over and sounded good, was holding around 1k rpm for about 15 seconds or so, then it started to slowly drop down until the jeep started to sputter/shake. I killed the engine and restarted it up. This time I a heard a "hissing" sound...? not sure if hissing is the correct term but that's what I'm using for the moment. The jeep then wanted to die after just a few seconds, so again I killed the engine. I took a look a throttle body and the connectors are all in place and what not but I'm not sure about the two plugins in the back (see pics below). I cranked the jeep over again and this time it didn't even start, It attempted to but then I heard another noise, kind of like a grinding sound... Is the throttle body hooked up incorrectly? It seems like it might not be getting any gas? Pleasssee help!





'


The last image is what I'm really curious about... There seems to be two holes on the Throttle body, I can only find one cable in my jeep that is loose that would seem like a fit.
Thoughts?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member


Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 404
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Also, this is a pic behind the TPS, is the latch suppose to be on the top or the bottom? Mine is on the top. (well the TPS latch is on the bottm)
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member


Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
So how gentle do you have to be with the IAC? Cause now I keep reading that you need to be super gentle with them and I may have dropped mine about 4 feet in the garage during the cleaning process 
Should I get a new one? If so does any brand in particular matter?

Should I get a new one? If so does any brand in particular matter?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Did you use a new throttle body gasket?
The TPS lever needs to move when you move the throttle linkage. Self explanatory.
Only one of the 2 holes in the throttle body has vacuum. IIRC it's the lower one. That's the hose for the MAP sensor on the firewall.
The TPS lever needs to move when you move the throttle linkage. Self explanatory.
Only one of the 2 holes in the throttle body has vacuum. IIRC it's the lower one. That's the hose for the MAP sensor on the firewall.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member


Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Only thing I can think of is maybe the IAC was damaged when I dropped it but would that.actually cause it to not start at all?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Okay so ya the TPS lever is installed correctly. And I saw some pics of map sensor so I relocated it to the lower hole (fits better) and yes on throttle body gasket...
Only thing I can think of is maybe the IAC was damaged when I dropped it but would that.actually cause it to not start at all?
Only thing I can think of is maybe the IAC was damaged when I dropped it but would that.actually cause it to not start at all?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Might have gotten flooded by having no vacuum to the MAP. Try starting it while holding the gas pedal to the floor. That's a "clear flood" mode on a Renix.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
So just as a recap...
Replaced spark plugs, wires, distrib cap and rotor. (hooked up distrib one cable at a time so it would not get messed up). cleaned throttle body (with throttle body cleaner), hooked it all back up with gasket and tested with meter to make sure it was in correct range.
Started up first time no problem, ran good for a little bit, started to sputter then died. Starter back up, again once or twice no issues but was sputtering pretty bad. Now it won't start up at all...
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member


Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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From: Russellville, Arkansas
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
XJ's don't like fancy plugs. Most people find that the basic Champion copper's work the best. Yes, you can pull your plugs and clean them and make sure they have the proper gap.
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From: St. Albert
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I would seriously doubt that the plugs, if the right model and installed/gapped correctly would prevent the Jeep from starting. I had the those platinum +4's installed for about 35000 miles without issue (installed well before Cherokeeforum became a part of my life of course) But at any rate, even with perfect plugs if they are gas-fouled there won't be much happening. Best to take out, and have a look.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member


Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 404
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I would seriously doubt that the plugs, if the right model and installed/gapped correctly would prevent the Jeep from starting. I had the those platinum +4's installed for about 35000 miles without issue (installed well before Cherokeeforum became a part of my life of course) But at any rate, even with perfect plugs if they are gas-fouled there won't be much happening. Best to take out, and have a look.
Well looks like I will be removing the plugs when I get home to investigate.
Now would they really be that gas fouled up if this was the first start up with them? I litteraly just replaced the plugs last night so the engine has only had the new plugs in and running for all of maybe 2 minutes... Today was the first start-up with them in.


