Detours Tailbone install write up
#1
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Detours Tailbone install write up
here's what you get with the Tailbone system (+ all hardware needed). It comes primed flat gray so you'll probably want to paint it.
First, remove the bumper caps, bumper, and mounts.
The two small L-brackets go in the sub-frame, using the two small flat plates on the under side of the frame to hold them in place once the bolts are put in. I simply used my hitch receiver instead.
The smaller cross member goes in between the gas tank and the body panel, bolting to the body panel and the L-brackets. This ties the system into your XJ's sub frame and body, adding strength to the rear end.
Next comes the larger cross member. It simply bolts in where your mounts would, as well as to the inner cross member.
Once that's in, you need to find the center of your bumper. Tape it off so your have a reference line. Next, measure out from the center on either side and mark the lines for the d-ring tabs. These are about 3/4" thick.
Once the cuts are made, sand down the edges of the cuts and prime the metal so it won't rust. Fit the bumper over the cross member to make sure it fits properly.
Take the outer brackets place them over the un-attached bumper so you can mark where you will be drilling holes for the bracket bolts. Once the drilling, sanding, and priming of the holes is done you can then attach the bumper by bolting the brackets to the large cross member, sandwiching the bumper skin between the two.
Put some grease on the pivot pin and drop the swing-out arm on to it.
Bolt on the lock tab and the tire mount and all that's left is to put the bumper caps back on and mount the spare.
the finished product:
Mark at Detours does offer the option of "tilting" the spare mount so your tire will match the rear window angle. The outer brackets, come with flames on them, but Mark will cut them off if you ask him to as well. I didn't care for 'em so I had them chopped.
First, remove the bumper caps, bumper, and mounts.
The two small L-brackets go in the sub-frame, using the two small flat plates on the under side of the frame to hold them in place once the bolts are put in. I simply used my hitch receiver instead.
The smaller cross member goes in between the gas tank and the body panel, bolting to the body panel and the L-brackets. This ties the system into your XJ's sub frame and body, adding strength to the rear end.
Next comes the larger cross member. It simply bolts in where your mounts would, as well as to the inner cross member.
Once that's in, you need to find the center of your bumper. Tape it off so your have a reference line. Next, measure out from the center on either side and mark the lines for the d-ring tabs. These are about 3/4" thick.
Once the cuts are made, sand down the edges of the cuts and prime the metal so it won't rust. Fit the bumper over the cross member to make sure it fits properly.
Take the outer brackets place them over the un-attached bumper so you can mark where you will be drilling holes for the bracket bolts. Once the drilling, sanding, and priming of the holes is done you can then attach the bumper by bolting the brackets to the large cross member, sandwiching the bumper skin between the two.
Put some grease on the pivot pin and drop the swing-out arm on to it.
Bolt on the lock tab and the tire mount and all that's left is to put the bumper caps back on and mount the spare.
the finished product:
Mark at Detours does offer the option of "tilting" the spare mount so your tire will match the rear window angle. The outer brackets, come with flames on them, but Mark will cut them off if you ask him to as well. I didn't care for 'em so I had them chopped.
Last edited by no rdplz; 08-31-2010 at 03:25 PM.
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
good write-up. I found it easier to remove the hitch and the inner sub-frame tie-in mounts (especially the exhaust side...had to contend with the heat shield for the gas tank...) and then just work it back into the instructions. Especially given how tight the smaller backside bracket is to access. Now that's my opinion, others may find that more work, but it worked well for me! I really had to coerse a few things and grind away some material for the latch......had to get my own since he said the included one is on back order (got very same one next day after I ordered it from McMaster-Carr, but whatever).
So mine didn't go as smooth as silk, but given the whole experience...I'd go with the Slimline next time for protection and possible ease of install. Cost wise, Tailbone isn't a bad deal at all!!!!!
So mine didn't go as smooth as silk, but given the whole experience...I'd go with the Slimline next time for protection and possible ease of install. Cost wise, Tailbone isn't a bad deal at all!!!!!
#4
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good write-up. I found it easier to remove the hitch and the inner sub-frame tie-in mounts (especially the exhaust side...had to contend with the heat shield for the gas tank...) and then just work it back into the instructions. Especially given how tight the smaller backside bracket is to access. Now that's my opinion, others may find that more work, but it worked well for me! I really had to coerse a few things and grind away some material for the latch......had to get my own since he said the included one is on back order (got very same one next day after I ordered it from McMaster-Carr, but whatever).
So mine didn't go as smooth as silk, but given the whole experience...I'd go with the Slimline next time for protection and possible ease of install. Cost wise, Tailbone isn't a bad deal at all!!!!!
So mine didn't go as smooth as silk, but given the whole experience...I'd go with the Slimline next time for protection and possible ease of install. Cost wise, Tailbone isn't a bad deal at all!!!!!
#5
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How many bolts did you have in each side of your hitch? Mine had four, though the nut strip had five nuts. I'm going to have to cut out a section of the nut strip, drill one hole in each side of the hitch to line up with the middle position on the nut strip / forward position on the L bracket, and replace one hitch bolt on each side with the much smaller Tailbone bolt.
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