Hello,

Just found this. I have a 1996 XJ 4Dr with UpCountry Package. I put in some solid rod control arms on Monday. That can effect the front back position of front axle.

Before that, 2 years ago or so put in coil spacer and air shocks in front. After doing so heard clicking and it was tie rod catching on the skid plate from radiator back to axle. Likely to protect tie rod, on UpCountry package. But due to 3" rise the back bottom of skid plate evens up with tie rod and it was catching. Forget what did to fix. Maybe grinding.

Now after new control arms took a left at 20mph on Tuesday and steering locked, I hit gas as thought maybe engine had died and stopped power steering pump and it did start steering again. Should have stopped and inspected, on HWY 20 in CA (Grass Valley)

Got home fine but today can see the connecting point (bump) on tie rod is only 1/8" from skid plate. No doubt new arms pushed the axle forward.

I will grind or otherwise fix before driving again.

Wanted to immediately post this, this could be fatal. If any Jeep factory people here please pass this along to right people.

TieRodSticksOnSkidPlate

Pic shows problem

 

Issues like this are usually discovered after installing lift or changing major components. Suspension and steering should be tested for any clearance issues/binding, at droop, compression, and articulated.
Lifting the XJ often shifts the axle forward to keep wheel centered in well, this can cause contact with skid.
I fixed it by adding spacers to the rear mount of skid. This pivoted the skid at front, which moved the backside down and forward, adding clearance for tie-rod.

 

Ah, I was just about to recip saw the skid, spacers better idea, did not know they are movable.

THANKS!!

 

Looked it over, somewhat mangled skid plate. I do extreme stuff with it.

2 bolts sheared off, bent this way and that. AND on other side a bolthead on tie rod is worn quite a bit from rubbing on skid plate. Nothing to catch on but it was rubbing.

Am going to pull it off, straighten and use cutting torch to remove some material from back, shim as you suggest and weld on some 1.5" angle iron under it (comes stock with angle iron above) so protect the tie rod, but is further forward so no contact.

With it off much easier to work on.

 

Keep in mind that by increasing the strength/stiffness of the skid, can cause it to crush the frame rail when impacted.
The rear mounting area of skid has just enough metal to function, while allowing this area to bend/distort if skid is impacted.

 

I would throw it away, doesn't do much and its a ***** to work on anything.

 

Works good for me on 31"s. Have a lot of brush to drive through and the skid helps funnel it under and keeps it off the steering. Seems to help in a number of ways, wrenching is not one of them. Couple the skid with the stock splash guard and wrenching becomes very difficult.