They had varying steering ratio's between front and rear, rear only really turned a few degree's, and it only kicked in at low speed.

 

the ultimate in 4wheel steering. now those would be some differentials to put in an XJ lol

 

admittingly i don't know anything about this guy's setup, but to me it looks like if he is using a D30 in the rear he is using some wheel spacers too. Somehow he had to make clearence for turing those big tires so it also looks like he's made some major modifications to the body. Are you really prepared to do all that? My rear tires are pretty close to the body now and they don't even turn. Doesn't seem pratical to me, especially if you are not doing some hardcore wheeling (and not driving on the street anymore).

 

I'm just looking at my options for now. I prefer not doing "what everyone else does" even though I realize that in some cases there's a reason for everyone doing it.

As far s body work, I was thinking about that too, and don't really mind it myself, and in fact I seem to have fun working with sheet metal. When I cut and rolled my fenders a few months back I found it quite relaxing. I'd practice on my parts jeep though first if I were to go this route, and may anyway just for kicks, the thing is going to the scrapyard after i part it out anyway.

The thing that bothers me, though is the price tag for making it work, and because of this I may just shelve it for now and wait until I have my shop up, time and money to throw at it.

On that note, however, I have another question: Anyone know how much difference there is between 29 spline and 30 spline axles? If I recall, some of the later year XJs had 29s, and would probibly be easier to get replacements for and cheaper to get ahold of.

 

Dana 30's are all 27 spline unless you buy an aftermarket 30 kit. To be honest the 30 spline kit is a waste of money unless you would rather replace a ring and pinion on the trail rather than an axleshaft.

Seriously I think that a D30 rear steer would actually be a good idea on something small and light with a 4cyl and maybe 32/33's, maybe if you chopped the crap out of a Cherokee. It wouldnt even cost that much money because you could use mostly stock parts and it could still be kinda strong

 

That's kinda what i was thinking, however the only difference is that all I have are 6 cyl but I don't really push them hard, and the engine weight wouldn't matter much (it's all on the front anyway). Wouldn't really cost me anything much as I have all the parts. If I go this route, I'd probibly strip out the interior, add a cage on the front half, and I'd have to tub out the rear wheel wells

I've looked up more stuff as I've been given options on an 8.8 rear or a pair of axles (30 and 35) that have some work done to them. So far, what i've been able to find:

the D30 and the D35 are "roughly" the same in strenght, as per axle diameter. The D35 MAY have the c-clip axle retainer, which is it's weakest spot, as any shaft breakage results in dead on trail unless you do some work on it and put disk brakes, locking hubs, or eliminator kit, all of which cost money. I'm not sure if the older clipless ones result in axle ejections or not in a break.

As per axle size, the D44 and the Chrysler 8.25 are about equivlant, with more support for the D44, however, there are some D44s that are not made as well as others (aluminum housings and such), and the D44 has a wide variety of configurations (width, disk/drum brakes, front/rear, etc) whereas there's not as many differences you have to worry about with the chrysler. It, too, is a C-clip, but under most situations I have not read about anyone yet that has actually had one break on them. It has the larger ring gear like the D44, and if you have one, it won't cost you anything to keep using it. Again, though, like the D35, unless it has something to retain the shaft in the event it does break, the only thing holding the shaft in is the c-clip on the very tip inside the diff, so you'd be stuck, probibly. I believe most of them or all of them on the Xj are all drum brakes. Anyway, I have them in both of my XJs, and as there are nearly no D44 availible in my area (that I can find), it seems to be a good idea to stick with that unless one pops up at some point.

On the top of the heap is the Ford 8.8. From what I've read, this, in some ways, seems to be the biggest and best option, especially if you find one with disk brakes already. It has a bigger ring gear, large shafts, and if you want to convert to springs in the rear, it may already have it ready to go. Down side is that it's also a c-clip, however a disk brake version won't leave you dead on the trail even if it breaks. Up sides are that it appears to be a good width for the jeep and there's a lot of support.

Ok, on to the question of the day:

To weld or not to weld? Unless I just say screw it and do the D30 rear steer (in which case the same question applies to it), what is my "down side" if I were to lincoln lock the 8.25 or 8.8? It seems to me that if I were to be unhappy with it I could still dump out the gears and either put in a detroit or lock-right. I guess the biggest question is would there ever be a reason I'd want to preserve the old gears and pay for a spool? (Also part of this question: is it easier to redo the gear shimming or clean up the mess from welding so it won't mess wear out the gears?)

 

here's another idea, and this is kinda just for laugh's, cut two XJ's in half and weld the front halfs together. Then just re-tube the D30 to center the diff and add the hydro steering- done.

 

lol, I'd thought about doing the same with two front wheel drive cars, gang the throttles and the steering.

Go one way til ya can't go no further, get out, walk around to the other side, and go til ya can't go no further, repeat until both tanks are empty!

 

Like the old Studebaker Commander? Sounds like fun - but I'd definitely want it functional from either end (the axle not being used for steering would lock straight, say, until you switched control seats.)

 

ok i emailed the guy and i give u this!