Dana 30 carrier bearing races, can they be replaced on their own?
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Dana 30 carrier bearing races, can they be replaced on their own?
Hey all,
I replaced the center pin in my D30/Aussie Locker and am about to re-install the carrier. Before I got into re-installing it, I noticed that the condition of the races for the carrier bearings is not so great. The rollers in the bearings look ok.
Can I just replace the races, or does it need a bearing job? Also, will either require resetting the backlash/other specs?
I replaced the center pin in my D30/Aussie Locker and am about to re-install the carrier. Before I got into re-installing it, I noticed that the condition of the races for the carrier bearings is not so great. The rollers in the bearings look ok.
Can I just replace the races, or does it need a bearing job? Also, will either require resetting the backlash/other specs?
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A bit out of my league. No scoring or discoloration? (blue). Will that "staining" clean up? I was taught to not only change both B & R's together, but to not mix them up. They wear in together as a pair.
Besides others here, you might bounce the question off seriousoffroad. Myself, with just minor pitting I might just run it...Idk though.
Besides others here, you might bounce the question off seriousoffroad. Myself, with just minor pitting I might just run it...Idk though.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-30-2015 at 12:22 AM. Reason: others here, (comma)
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A bit out of my league. No scoring or discoloration? (blue). Will that "staining" clean up? I was taught to not only change both B & R's together, but to not mix them up. They wear in together as a pair.
Besides others here you might bounce the question off seriousoffroad. Myself, with just minor pitting I might just run it...Idk though.
Besides others here you might bounce the question off seriousoffroad. Myself, with just minor pitting I might just run it...Idk though.
I stopped to ask the question, but I am very tempted to put it all back together and ride on.
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Your carrier bearings do allot more work than mine, but if those races clean up OK I'd be very likely to reinstall them. Mating the ring to the pinion after a rebuild is REALLY a job for pros. I've been wrenching since other kids on my bolck brought there bikes to me to get their training wheels off! 1970?. Anyway I only got one right of the two I tried.....Likely better to put it to bed, as undisturbed as possible.
You really want it to feel butter smooth. (any bearing). If you feel any grunchy/bumpy, when it's clean clean, it's days are numbered.
You really want it to feel butter smooth. (any bearing). If you feel any grunchy/bumpy, when it's clean clean, it's days are numbered.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-30-2015 at 12:26 AM. Reason: , it's days
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Your carrier bearings do allot more work than mine, but if those races clean up OK I'd be very likely to reinstall them. Mating the ring to the pinion after a rebuild is REALLY a job for pros. I've been wrenching since other kids on my bolck brought there bikes to me to get their training wheels off! 1970?. Anyway I only got one right of the two I tried.....Likely better to put it to bed, as undisturbed as possible. You really want it to feel butter smooth. (any bearing). If you feel any grunchy/bumpy, when it's clean clean, days are numbered.
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#9
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Your carrier bearings do allot more work than mine, but if those races clean up OK I'd be very likely to reinstall them. Mating the ring to the pinion after a rebuild is REALLY a job for pros. I've been wrenching since other kids on my bolck brought there bikes to me to get their training wheels off! 1970?. Anyway I only got one right of the two I tried.....Likely better to put it to bed, as undisturbed as possible.
You really want it to feel butter smooth. (any bearing). If you feel any grunchy/bumpy, when it's clean clean, it's days are numbered.
You really want it to feel butter smooth. (any bearing). If you feel any grunchy/bumpy, when it's clean clean, it's days are numbered.
Well, after consulting with you guys, and doing some looking and nodding, they passed the jipcherkee QC check (Or maybe I just decided that I didn't have much in the way of other options). In they went. Tomorrow I test drive and see if anything splodes.
HAHA Those are some deep fried bearings.
Thanks for the help all!
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^^ agree.
If you've ever driven with shot carrier bearings and driven with good bearings the difference is night and day. No vibes, can feel like floating down the road.
For Dana 30 you can buy the cup and cone separate, together, or as a kit.
Timken part numbers LM501349, LM501314
NAPA part numbers have a "VP" at the end or BRG72 for the set.
Most stores will interchange or use Timken part numbers.
Don't get hung up on the Timken brand name. Koyo and SKF are excellent bearings. They just don't have the Timken brand recognition in the U.S.
If you've ever driven with shot carrier bearings and driven with good bearings the difference is night and day. No vibes, can feel like floating down the road.
For Dana 30 you can buy the cup and cone separate, together, or as a kit.
Timken part numbers LM501349, LM501314
NAPA part numbers have a "VP" at the end or BRG72 for the set.
Most stores will interchange or use Timken part numbers.
Don't get hung up on the Timken brand name. Koyo and SKF are excellent bearings. They just don't have the Timken brand recognition in the U.S.
Last edited by md21722; 05-30-2015 at 06:37 PM.
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