ok so im sure this has been asked 1000000+ times, i just have 2 mini questions...

What all do i have to swap over, aside from the obvious...

are the lines the same? adapters needed? anything special???

1989 jeep cherokee renix

D35 axle to d35 drums...

 

you need:
backing plates with e breaks
rotors
calipers(with pads and bla bla bla)
soft line from caliper to hard line
e brake lines may need to be changed

you will need to pull your axel shafts out and that takes a specific small wrench so you can pull the c clips.
You will pull the diff cover so you need all of the stuff to put that back together like fluid and rvt or a gasket.
some break fluid to fill/bleed the system
other than that you shouldnt need much else

 

Awesome thank you so much, and i didnt think the 89's were c clipped? are they?!

 

Here is what you need.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes/G-...03&t_pl=104945

 

You will love this swap. I had to get one new brake line. Autozone sells pre-flared lengths and I have a better time bending line by hand then with a bender. All the line fittings are the same. Make sure your caliper softlines arent twisted to much when connected to hard line. I am sure you will work somthing out. Other than the brake lines for me everything else was straight forward. I had a spare diff so I honed the inners of the backing plates from a ZJ days before. This way my truck was out of comission for that much less.

Any questions just shoot. You should have no problems.

 

One more thing I haven't seen mentioned is the brake proportioning valve. Some say it is absolutely necessary and some say not at all. Just hoping this spurrs a little informational.

 

I have done this swap and I run the stock prop valve but I'm also running a 1997 tj brake booster and master cylinder.

 

So, from what I'm read its a direct swap, but I keep reading about a "retainer" <-????????

And does anyone have an actual write up? I'm mean I'm all for hopping in blind. But the rx7 is a rotary so you know its torn apart(lol), so all I've got is the Cherokee DD wise. I work mon-sat so is there anyway this could be a couple hour thing with a good write up?

 

I forgot to mention the proportioning valve. I read that if you dont change the proportioning valve the rear brakes will lock up on you. Then I further read that when running 35" tires you dont need to change prop valve because the brakes wont be able to lock up the 35" tires.

However, before gear oil got all over my new brakes, When I would step on the brakes the truck wouldn't Dip forward. It would stay pretty level. So it was kind of a nice stop with no dipping and my school books falling off my seats.

If running 33s or smaller, the prop. valve is recommend to change, I have one just never installed it.

 

can u run 15 inch rims with this mod

 

I believe the hydraulic pressure in the lines will be the same front and rear. Not from any knowledge of Jeeps, it's just physics. Unless the Master cylinder had two different sized pistons.
The "Proportioning" valve, is to isolate front from rear if pressure falls in one, if I'm not mistaken.
If the ratio of stock breaking force is uneven, (say 60% front 40% rear), the difference might be made in the size of the bores/pistons in the calipers. No idea though!

 

I went to do this on my 87 and found out that the caliper brackets I had wouldnt work on the d35 I had. It was the semi float or whatever you wanna call it. It didnt have c clips in it so just look out for that.

 

you probably dont have c-clips, but you never know. id start with figuring that out first, then what you need

 

I just bought this kit. I'm going to put it in my 89' Cherokee. I got a rear Dana 44 out of an 87'. Have not installed it yet.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes-St...97&t_pl=104945