bmrrwolfe

So I found that I have a lot of play in my 98 XJs D-30 left front axle shaft at the u-joint, and a little play in the right side as well, so I was going to replace them while I am doing a brake job next weekend.

First question, What U-joints should I get? I have heard to get Spicer 5-760X because they are much stronger then stock, but for a college student seem a little pricey. I found at the local autozone, the duralast gold u-joints are only $15 and have a lifetime warranty.
Are the spicers worth the cost, or no? The XJ has a 4.5" lift and on 31s for now, soon to be 32s and is more street driven, but with hopes of more wheeling in the future.

Also while replacing the u-joints, is there anything I should be replacing, any bearings?
I know I will need to refill the diff-fluid.

Thanks!

BotakBeng

Just bought a pair Precision/Moog from Napa (#PUJ371) for $16 ea....good enough by my standard (running on 32" as well).
Btw, you do know that there is no need to remove the diff cover? Thus no need to replace the diff fluid unless you want to.

GL.

bmrrwolfe

Thanks!
I know Moog makes quality parts, as does NAPA, so I may go with them.
And yupp, I know that when I pull the out the shafts that a bit of fluid will leak out, requiring a top off after reassembly.

bmrrwolfe

Found Moog part#371 u-joints for $16 at Advance Auto, and ordering online for a store pick-up I can get 25%, so they should be same correct?
They say they fit, but doesn't specify where on the vehicle..

Edit looked up the part # to confirm, and it looks right!

Maybe I will try to knock these out today.

weebur

I just replace those after only 20K, they were so bone dry and stiff I couldn't move them by hand. The needle bearings were corroded beyond belief.

I replaced mine with NAPA "Precision" joints that can be greased.

caged

you won't get much fluid leaking out unless the axle is tipped way down.
the fluid is only full up to the axle tube, not to the top of the diff.

get the best joints you can afford. non greasable seems to be stronger, but i don't think there's much of a difference since there's still a grease valley in the cross section.

Guitar Dude 33

I have a question..... how difficult is a repair like this?

I found out my front left axle u-joint needs to be replaced. I've never done a repair like this, and without any special tools, i was just curious if it's something that a novice could handle.

Don't mean to jack your thread, but any input is appreciated!

caged

can simply be done with a large enough vise, hammer and sockets.

you want a socket big enough to push the cap into and one small enough to fit the cap perfectly to fit through the ears.

first, mark both ears with a punch so they go back together the same way before you removed them.
then remove clips, hammer cap/joint through into the big socket, pull caps then repeat with other caps.

file/sand the ears where the caps sit, then grease them up and add a bit of grease inside the caps and smear it around the needle bearings. this will help keep them all together. you don't want any to fall inside the cap as you put it all back together again. you will end up damaging a needle bearing and need another new joint.

i will press them in with the palm of my hands as far as i can, and make sure the joint is centered and inside each of the caps just a bit.
then carefully use the vise to press each cap into place, as far as they can go.
then use the small socket again to tap it into the ear enough as to fit a clip.
then again on the other side.
if you can't get the cap to go in enough, you probably dropped a bearing and will have to take it all back apart again.

once it's all together, if the joint is stiff, you can use a punch to hit the inside of the ears to spread them apart enough as to free up the joint just a bit.
grease the joint before you reinstall the shaft. you may have to remove the grease zerk to clear the ball joint zerks (if applicable).

if that's as clear as mud, i'm sure you can find a video on youtube.

on a scale of 1 to 10 for a first timer, could easily be a 6. but once you've done it a few times, it becomes a 1.

nickxj94

Depends on what kind of Wheeling you do if its mainly a DD go with the cheapos, if you wheel every weekend like me I went with spicers non greaseable cause they hold up better I have the big joint shafts and c clipped my caps from popping out. And I would rent a ball joint press to remove and install the ujoints its alot easier and you don't take a chance on beating the caps or shafts with a hammer and loosing the needle bearings. That's my 2 pennies worth.

jeepgldgr

I just did this replacement on my 88 waggy and except for the fact that my caliper bolts were a pita had to use a torch and pb blaster to get them broke loose also had to use a bolt extractor for one that was slightly rounded off (prior owner) it really was not a tough job at all I do recommend you get the right tools first I used a mapp gas torch and a 12 point 13mm socket for the bolts lot's of pb blaster anti seize for the bolts for the re install a bench top vise and I opted for a Arbor Press for the u joint RR it made the job way easier and only set me back $39 at Harbor freight it's a great tool for future u joint replacement and I used a socket to press out the caps on the u joint. Be sure to grease up the spline end of your axle before inserting it back and be very careful not to damage the seal in the axle tube or you'll have a even bigger repair. After I did mine I seen no diff fluid come out although after the first test drive I seen some seepage but this was only a slight amount that must have came out when the axle was removed that stayed in the axle tube after checking the level ther was no more leakage but do check this a couple times also to make sure. and while you're there if needed might as well do a brake job too good luck.

mr white

It's easiest with a ball joint press. You can rent them at oreilly for free. Or buy one.

Guitar Dude 33

Caged and MrWhite, thanks so much for the info. Sounds like i'll give it a shot

caged

just watch those ball joint presses. you can damage a shaft and or u-joint pretty quickly if too much force is used when a needle bearing drops.
and if you have abs, you could break a tone ring.

i have a press, but only use it mostly for knocking them out. i always take caution when installing and have buggered up a few new joints at that.

mr white

Just need to make sure the needle bearings stay put.

Big David

I replaced one on my back porch with a hammer & socket.Took 20 minutes.Very easy.