I'm getting ready to replace my U joints on the front of my 88 waggy it has the D 30 and was wondering if both the axles just slide out after disassembling or is there a retaining clip or something that has to be removed somewhere?
also any other tips for this procedure would be most appreciated as this is my first try at this and would hate to forget a bearing or seal replacement that should have could have been done while the axles were out.
Thanks.
Bill

 

Ok no c clip on those axles. You will probably have to buy new hub bolts. 7 bucks each at the dealer.

TO pull your axle shafts you don't even have to pull the diff cover. Just pull all the brakes off. Then there are 3 1/2 12 point bolts that hold the hub in place. Back them off and then beat with a hammer hence buying new bolts. It will be hard to remove the hub from an ole 88. I just did my 87 and it was a PIA beating the crap out of the bolt was the only way for me. Remember the orientation of your Backing plate for your brakes as it will shift around once you remove the hub bolts.

Not too hard of a job though. Use ANTISEIZE when you put it all back together.

 

I recently found these to links:
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/hub/
http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/dana30wheelbearing.htm

 

You'll want a torch...I needed one for my 2000. The 3 12pt bolts for the hub wouldn't come lose to same my life. Heated em up and the popped loose right away. Would've saved me 2-3hrs. if I did that first. When I put it all back together, antiseize it all.

 

Never had to use a torch, and as for beating the bolts with a hammer, that doesn't sound too nice on the threads on on the hub. I used a dead blow mallet and tapped lightly on the side of the hub then moved along to the other side. Came out without an issue, this was a 1996, and didn't even have to buy new hub bolts.

 

If you don't pull the diff cover, fluid will drain out the axle tubes. Put a bucket under one side and remove only that side first. Wait until the fluid is done draining.

 

Yeah in a perfect world. 1987 waggy spent most its life in the rust belt. Nothing brakes free easy on it.

I put new bolts in with antiseize really easily hub threads were strong. Plus when doing this you screw the bolt in quite few threads to distribute the load better. And work both sides and top. Until you can get a pry bar in there.

 

Got the driver side off well almost it off I got the brake caliper and rotor off and all five bolts in the back but could not get the axle and hub assembly to pull out even with some heat and a 2.5lbs mallet. My next step is to try to use a puller to pop it free. The passenger side turned out to be the real problem now as the lower caliper bolt wont even budge I heated and have been PB blasting it now for the last two days also the PO must have tried this also as it looks to be slightly rounded off and the 12pt 13mm socket doesn't grab it anymore it's not completely rounded but getting there I'm thinking maybe trying the reverse torx socket on it other wise I'm looking at trying to remove a rounded head bolt and not real happy to have to attempt that or sure exactly how to tackle that just yet.
Thanks for the replies any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

Don't use a puller unless you want to buy new hubs.

And I believe the 12pt 1/2in socket is what you need. 13mm is pretty close but the 1/2 is dead on.

 

Well after a couple day's of pb blasting and heat and with the aid of a 13mm spiral bolt remover from craftsman I finally got the pass sd. off and replaced the u joint. I didn't however have an issue with the hub or rotor they both pulled right off and out unlike the driver side but the bad joint was on the pass sd. anyway when I pressed the caps out only rusty dust remained inside the caps it's a wonder they didn't lock up on me. My hat is off to that little spiral socket man it was a life saver I recommend everyone buy the set you'll be glad you did when you need it and thank's for all the tips I'll have to figure something out to break loose the driver sd. but feel confident on performing this job again.

 

When this is done, would enough fluid drain out that you need to check the level/refill?
Just wondering because I did my ujoints last week.

 

Did any leak out? Should check the level either way.

 

YES.
Did mine without that knowledge and my front end made terrible grinding noise until I refilled. Fortunately I didn't go far and the gears look fine

 

Do check your fluid level mine did leak a bit into the axle tube after pulling the axle but I didn't see it until I test drove it around town the cornering caused the the little that leaked out to hit the back of my tire and threw it into the wheel well I flipped out at first thinking I damaged the seal but after checking the level and cleaning er up and topping off I have not seen any more drop in level or leakage from the axle tube but do top it off.