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cutting out while driving

Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by chaser
Shut the **** up im trying if your not going to help why bother commenting
To me, it IS helping. What the heck are you worrying about the next thing when you haven't checked the stuff you need to before that?

It's YOUR Jeep. YOU need to participate in the repair/diagnosis. Not just keep asking questions.

You've got some well-seasoned folks to help you here but your attitude frickin sucks!!!

Maybe I should just close this thread and you head over to Pirate with your ****ty attitude.

Last edited by cruiser54; Dec 12, 2013 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:14 PM
  #17  
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You dont realize i cant just pull a pressure gage out of thin air.,we have a pressure gage set but there are no adapters that fit so before i go out and struggle to find one i wanted to see if theres something else i could check
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:16 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by chaser
You dont realize i cant just pull a pressure gage out of thin air.,we have a pressure gage set but there are no adapters that fit so before i go out and struggle to find one i wanted to see if theres something else i could check
Waste of time to check anything else without doing a fuel pressure test FIRST. The adapters are not odd.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:16 PM
  #19  
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You do have a pressure regulator on the rail as well. Smell the vac line on it and see if you notice fuel in there.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 09:12 PM
  #20  
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Chaser, you are in remarkable company. Cruiser was a teck at Jeep for years, and a number of the others are seasoned mechanics. No one here is paid..They are just trying to help you. "shut the f up" ...well maybe you already PM'd Cruiser to apologize.

Yea Pete, we couldn't check fuel pressure without spending $40-50 untill Autozone came in a few months ago. It's still $45 or so, but you get it back with the return.

Chaser, in post #9 I mentioned that you can bypass the resistor, and power from the rear there goes straight to the pump. If nothing spurts from the schrader valve, a gauge is not going to read correct pressure.

Just because it's easy, you can swap the 2nd' and 4th' relays in that row of 4, see if that helps. (fuel is second, AC is 4th) The diagram is in my signature.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Dec 12, 2013 at 09:28 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 09:36 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by chaser
When i unplug the MAP sensor it completely dies so i dont think its that
A MAP sensor that's going out will still allow the motor to run, but lousy so if you can plug in one from a Chevy or other JEEP that's in good working order or plug yours into theirs?
Also on the fuel pressure gauge(and I have done this) you can use in a pinch an A/C gauge for R-12 into the port. The gauge will tell you what you need to know, and is cheaper if you have to buy one maybe 12$ last time I looked. You will not want to use it for the A/C ever, but you now have a G/P pressure gauge.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 10:53 PM
  #22  
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Coil is bad
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 05:31 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jeepcountry99
Coil is bad
Please enlighten us as to how you have determined that over the internet.

I find it highly irresponsible when posts like this are made that could possibly cause the original poster to waste time and money that he doesn't need to.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 10:34 AM
  #24  
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The coil is fine replaced not to long ago plus if the coil was shot it wouldnt run. I could see the cap and rotor causing it but listening to the issue it really sounds like gas problem. Its not the map sensor i tried that. Im going to autozone today to check out the fuel pressure
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jeepcountry99
Coil is bad
I literally laughed out loud at this and got a lot of weird looks from my co workers.

thanks.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by chaser
The coil is fine replaced not to long ago plus if the coil was shot it wouldnt run. I could see the cap and rotor causing it but listening to the issue it really sounds like gas problem. Its not the map sensor i tried that. Im going to autozone today to check out the fuel pressure
Don't know about a 90' but don't disregard the coil, I changed mine out 2 months ago, about a week ago I started getting stalling fits, at idle, driving, cold/hot temp. Had a scan and its showing the P0351 code for ignition coil. A bad ignition coil will still allow the engine to run if its dying. You'll just have lots of stalling issues or none for a awhile.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #27  
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Wow dude, don't bite the hand that feeds you! Cruiser is one of the best and he's here to help, (if you didn't just blow it, that is).

Last edited by PDEM87; Dec 13, 2013 at 04:28 PM. Reason: Disreguard, I was on page 1 and didn't see page 2
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 05:56 PM
  #28  
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by PDEM87
Wow dude, don't bite the hand that feeds you! Cruiser is one of the best and he's here to help, (if you didn't just blow it, that is).
We're okay so far......
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 07:44 PM
  #30  
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If it started right after you put gas in you may have overfilled the tank.
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