Craptastic Position Sensors
CF Veteran



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 14
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by lurk520
Ok then...keep one in your glove box. Next you can read the nightmare stories of installing them.
CF Veteran



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 14
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by colorado_96
its bad on the wj i know that much we ended up taking my brothers to the dealer i think its seems easier on the xj
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,840
Likes: 117
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It can be tricky depending on the year. There have been more than a few cuss words spewed with this part. Search for threads which will give you tips on how to expedite the installation.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 905
Likes: 8
From: New Hampshire
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
It really only takes 10 minutes to replace one. Took me longer to realize I needed about 24" of total extension. I don't recommend the cheapos on these things though. They'll get your rig started, but open up more problems. Go to the dealer for these... This is coming from a big fan of cheapos.
When I bought my XJ my CPS went out after the first month. At least take it off and have a look at it when you buy. Clean it off and put it back in, just to give you an idea of how the procedure should go.
When I bought my XJ my CPS went out after the first month. At least take it off and have a look at it when you buy. Clean it off and put it back in, just to give you an idea of how the procedure should go.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hmm...
It seems a number of you don't agree with just changing it out right away due to throwing money at it or if it ain't broke...
But at the same time a bunch of you say you keep a spare in the glovebox.
In my book, that's what we call hedging your bets!
My tactic was too replace with a new one, but keep my old one that was working under the back seat. I know that there is no guarantee of lifespan on any of them, but I figured my odds are better for a longer time having one in there that's brand new instead of one that has 13 years on it.
Also, there seems to be a great divide amongst folks as to how hard they are to change.
Mine was a massive b!tch. Now, I've grown up under the hoods of cars, and I'm very mechanically inclined. I've restored several mid 60's Mustangs and early 70's Chevy trucks. I've also owned 4 other jeeps, a Mazda RX7, and a VW. I replaced the motor in my '98 myself, and always do all of my own maintenance on my vehicles. In addition, my brother is a mechanic, and works on trucks and heavy equipment every day. We fought that damn CPS for hours. There was no way for us to get at the bolt heads with a wrench from up top. We tried every combination of swivels and extensions to no avail from underneath, at one point having about 4 feet of extension and being behind the T-case. The socket kept slipping off or some other BS. We even dropped the crossmember a few inches. We finally took the console out, unbolted the shift lever mechanism, removed the trans tunnel plate, and managed to get a straighter shot at them. It was a 10 minute affair after that, only taking that long because that stupid plastic plate kept falling.
We had to change the CPS after the new engine was in because the CPS I bought at NAPA and put on before reinstalling the new motor turned out to be DOA. The CPS change and the top two bellhousing bolts were the hardest parts of the whole swap!
It seems a number of you don't agree with just changing it out right away due to throwing money at it or if it ain't broke...
But at the same time a bunch of you say you keep a spare in the glovebox.
In my book, that's what we call hedging your bets!
My tactic was too replace with a new one, but keep my old one that was working under the back seat. I know that there is no guarantee of lifespan on any of them, but I figured my odds are better for a longer time having one in there that's brand new instead of one that has 13 years on it.
Also, there seems to be a great divide amongst folks as to how hard they are to change.
Mine was a massive b!tch. Now, I've grown up under the hoods of cars, and I'm very mechanically inclined. I've restored several mid 60's Mustangs and early 70's Chevy trucks. I've also owned 4 other jeeps, a Mazda RX7, and a VW. I replaced the motor in my '98 myself, and always do all of my own maintenance on my vehicles. In addition, my brother is a mechanic, and works on trucks and heavy equipment every day. We fought that damn CPS for hours. There was no way for us to get at the bolt heads with a wrench from up top. We tried every combination of swivels and extensions to no avail from underneath, at one point having about 4 feet of extension and being behind the T-case. The socket kept slipping off or some other BS. We even dropped the crossmember a few inches. We finally took the console out, unbolted the shift lever mechanism, removed the trans tunnel plate, and managed to get a straighter shot at them. It was a 10 minute affair after that, only taking that long because that stupid plastic plate kept falling.
We had to change the CPS after the new engine was in because the CPS I bought at NAPA and put on before reinstalling the new motor turned out to be DOA. The CPS change and the top two bellhousing bolts were the hardest parts of the whole swap!
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Seriously, it seems like 30% of the OEM tech threads have a reference that the OP might have a bad CPS. Can't we all just agree to replace these right off the bat? I'm an IT Director, and we have a standard operating procedure when a computer screws up before we start tearing it down and replacing parts. Reboot it, then make sure it has all the Microsoft updates. This rules out a host of issues and makes any remaining troubleshooting far simpler.
More appropriate to Windows Updates would be a ground freshening and fluid change, especially on the RENIX years. Cheap and easy and will probably improve something.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Tucson, AZ
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Mine was pretty easy to deal with....20 minutes of internet research to diagnose...purchased new one on flea bay....used the money I saved to have a shop install it....never had any problems from there.....
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 720
Likes: 1
From: vanburen
Year: 1995 &2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Haha give it 30 days you will wish you went and got it from the dealer! I bought one off eBay it lasted 3 weeks, got one from sloreally's and its been warrentied 3 times in 6 months, goes out again I'm going to Dodge lol
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 720
Likes: 1
From: vanburen
Year: 1995 &2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It really only takes 10 minutes to replace one. Took me longer to realize I needed about 24" of total extension. I don't recommend the cheapos on these things though. They'll get your rig started, but open up more problems. Go to the dealer for these... This is coming from a big fan of cheapos.
When I bought my XJ my CPS went out after the first month. At least take it off and have a look at it when you buy. Clean it off and put it back in, just to give you an idea of how the procedure should go.
When I bought my XJ my CPS went out after the first month. At least take it off and have a look at it when you buy. Clean it off and put it back in, just to give you an idea of how the procedure should go.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Tucson, AZ
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Did you read my earlier post in this thread???? I got a brand new MOPAR for 17$. It's already been going strong well over a year.
But you are right, the CPS will probably eventually crap out at some point before the engine does.
Last edited by Radi; May 21, 2012 at 12:08 AM.
happened to me a couple weeks ago. went to start it one morning. wouldn't start, just dead, drove home the night before just fine. had 10ohms on the test pins when i checked it, somehow it just fried itself. was the oem 1994 cps too.
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