I hear my fuel pump priming so i assume it is working, but i don't know how it works with NO VOLTAGE at the ballast resistor on the fender!!!

i am going to remove my cps now. but still, have to think that without voltage there, something else is wrong. 1989 w/a straight 6.


looked at the cps. it was definitely recently replaced. probably not from jeep tho.

vehicle ran when it was dropped off at a friends to tune up. after replacing all the regular tune up stuff the vehicle would not run anymore and hasnt since. the coil was replaced twice, i hear. i have r&r'd the distributor, lining up tdc #1 with where the book showed it. there is NO adjustment on these things like a ford or chevy is there. weird. only one spot on the block the distributor can be screwed into. makes it impossible to do a static test for spark, which sucks. i tried moving the plug wires 180 just in case and nothing.

i have read about parts being bad if they were not from chrysler, like i think this cps might be. i did the ohm test on the cps and it was right there are 225 ohms. book says 200 +/- 75 ohms

Found out it was replaced, and purchased at auto zone.

i tried turning the key on and off three times ti get a call out code but i dont get any kind of check engine light to look at, so that's out. and i dont have a plug and play diagnostic computer.


i checked ac volts at the connector coming from the cps and i got .2V. then i drilled the holes out, just mounted it with the bottom bolt because the top one is so hard and i only got 1.5 volts. i guess it needs that top bolt, but i am thinking it is a piece of crap VatoZone part that wont work, and monday if i got the money, i'll get a jeep one.

 

i guess my Big question now is why isn't there voltage at my fuel ballast resistor as soon as i tun the key on. i mean you can hear the pump going when you turn the key on, so why no voltage? thx

 

double post for some reason

 

After you drill it it's extra important to keep good downward pressure on it while bolting it. Think you want a short extension to a universal, to a Looong 18-24" With your legs out to the right reach up with your left to hold it. Mine is working OK at only .3. My wires must be pretty good...If the pump works you can worry about that later?

Pretty sure the distributor only helps time injector pulse. The computer does the spark with the cps signal.

 

thanks, and what ya know about that voltage at the ballast resistor?

 

Check the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column. My 89 had a similar problem and the GM style switch was no bueno.

 

No voltage to the rear terminal while it's running? Wonder if someone put in another wire. I think mine goes straight from there to the pump.

 

by "it" you are referring to the pump. i did not measure voltage when i first turn on the key but why would it go away anyway? with the key on, if that makes the pump work, then there should still be voltage there anytime the key is on, is what i thought, si'?

 

No. It only gets voltage for a second when you turn the key. Then again when it's running. ("It", here would be the resistor/pump)

 

thanks, and i'm guessing, that would be Dino?