Champion #CPN-4412...Tj

 

You must've got bad gas or your TPS is messed up. If I run premium mine will starting pinging occasionally. I also read you have different plugs in there. Might be the reason it runs differently on premium. I would just throw the good ole' Champion copper truck plugs in and run regular gas. I noticed no change in mpg when I ran premium.

 

i've been pumping premium for two years now into my 1995, and it ran much better than regular gas.

pretty much, using whatever bolt on after market parts is one way to go, doing the fuel injector upgrades (a few posts on that you can search for here), and changing to better fluids are all you really can do unless you send the engine out to make it a stroker.

speaking of this subject, i wish somebody out there was making performance profile camshafts for the I6. having that combined with all the other engine modifications we do to our engines, the gains would be tremendous. i've searched high and low for anybody out there that makes them, and there is not one person who has. by the time i get done with college, if nobody has done that yet, i might as well open a machine shop and start producing them.

 

after that had happened my TPS went out, i replaced it with NAPA's Echlin line with the lifetime warranty, and it ran better, but with the bosch +4's, running regular didn't run right, but running the +4's and premium, im getting better gas mileage than running regular, i also noticed a slight increase in power.

 

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm

As far as getting more hp for the money, I don't believe a flowmaster is going to give you much if any more power over stock, it is a chambered muffler and IMO designed more for sound than performance. For optimal power on exhaust I would get a high flow cat (so it's legal and you have some back pressure so you don't need a new tune) and some kind of turbo muffler. Also the jeep exhaust (at least 93) really bottle neck (it's only 2" before car) so I would run 2.5" from the manifold all the way back. The high flow cat might cost you a bit, but you can buy everything else you need to do a complete 2.5 (in stainless if you want) from summit for pretty cheep, then just find an exhaust shop with mandrel bender and have them bend similar to stock exhaust and weld hangers on, or I even think summit sells bolt on hangers.

As far as people saying intakes and throttle body spacer's not being worth it, IDK, I put performance distributors ignition kit on and noticed no difference, but on my 93 I put on AEM intake, 62mm hesco tb and 62 mm tb spacer, and the difference is huge and incredibly noticed, now my butt dyno is not calibrated, and it could just feel different from bigger throttle body, more air getting in quicker, but even if I didn't gain any hp (which I highly doubt, but still, even if I didn't) it was totally worth it from the way it drives now, to the way it drove it before) If I gun it a bit in first the tires actually break loose very easily now (they didn't before) and before going up a somewhat a steep hill at say 45 mph in 5th gear (I have a manual) I could hold it down to full throttle and it would just maintain speed, where now on seem hill in 5th its effortless to go up in 5th, and if I give it gas it actually accelerates up the hill. (not fast at all, but it doesn't accelerate up hill now)

Also the previous owner had some platinum +4 plugs or something crazy like that, and when I switched to the basic champion coppers it seemed to run better, copper is definitely a better conductor, it is just high maintenance compared to the other plugs out there, you have to check them out at every 15k or something like that, a lot more often than the platinum and iridium plugs, but IMO it is worth it.

 

ID like one of these...
http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=...115&catId=7735

 

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTBboring.htm bore the stock tb, cai, header, 2000 h up intake manifold, thats just for starters

 

just go with plain ol' copper core Champions. they may be the cheapest, but they work the best. when i got mine, it had Bosch plugs in it, and i replaced with with NGK. didn't run any better or worse, but it was lagging a little. put cheap Champions in, and the thing came to life. Champion is just one of those reliable companies that's been around forever and makes great product.

 

oh, dude... kuddos. big time kuddos.

 

keep in mind those cams only work up to 1997 with the older single groove valves and taller springs. nobody manufactures a performance profile cam for 1998 to 2001 when they redesigned the cam, timing gears and head.

 

If someone really wanted I can I can point in right direction to get one made, but it would cost an arm and a leg unless someone bought like 50 hoping other would want them as well, and then sold them to recoup money, cause just a one-off cam is ultra expensive.

Also didn't he later models have like smaller exhaust ports or something and that's why the intake manifold is better? If had had a 98+ I would probably just try and do a head swap for earlier model year.

 

I looked into getting one custom ground but it was gonna cost and arm and both legs. And the air/exhaust ports are smaller on the 98+ heads and the intake runners were redesigned to compensate for the smaller valves and intake/exhaust ports. And you could take an earlier year head but there's no point if you can't get a peformance cam for the block. That and you would have to drill and tap the head for the temp sensor. Be easier to get an aluminum head from hesco.

 

I see, from the post above I just thought maybe valvetrain and pushrod's, or whatever a non-ohc I6 has, so the blocks are different internally? Does the head work on all blocks (84-01)?

 

yea. they changed the blocks internally in 1998 due to emission regulations. thats when the went to a dual grind cam with the exhaust valves open slightly longer than the intake valves. this produces better low end torque. but the heads (84-01) will work on all blocks but like i said you have to drill and tap the newer heads if you wanna put it on a older block. they also redesigned the head in 1998 with smaller diameter, shorter, three groove valves and shorter, thicker valve springs. optimal setup would be to have a pre 1997 block, the pre 97' head with the larger valves and springs (or a hesco aluminum head, they have same valves/ springs as pre 97' heads) and a intake from a mid 99-01. also the design of the pre 97' head will allow you to run a cam with up to .450'' of intake/exhaust lift with the stock spings/valves without binding...that is if your springs still have enough pressure for the cam.

 

good thing i have the stock motor in my 1995.
in your honest opinion, which cam in that list would you say is better in respects for still being a DD and being able to still go off road?