See the funny thing abou radiator leaks. They start small so you fill coolant here and there. An one day you come out and you have a good puddle under your jeep. So you fill it to get by. Then you drive and next thing you know, there's smoke because you neglected it.

Your post serves no purpose. Certain things can be temporarily fixed, so e others shouldn't. Guess what, we all have bills and kids and deaths in family and Christmas and naggin wives. My radiator just **** on me and now I have to spend $76 for the radiator and hose and that's less money for Christmas and gas and other stuff. And mines started as a small leak which I didn't even cause by racing with a bungee cord holding a battery. :end rant:

 

The OP's situation is caused by things he both did and did not do and knew some things were bad for a long time but just put 'em off/ignored 'em. Re-read the OP. Some things u fix right/correctly ASAP, Xmas or not, (like radiators and battery anchors). Other things, like radios and power windows, can wait a bit.

 

I just finished putting some JB Weld waterweld putty onto where the crack was, sanded and cleaned it beforehand of course. Let it sit for about an hour, then fitted the top hose onto it and tightened the hose clamp very snugly. Refilled the radiator and not seeing any leaks yet.

For the record this crack won't let it run dry, at least for the mean time, it maintains enough liquid to keep it at an acceptable temperature, and I keep a few gallons of water in the car. About 2 years ago the original 2000 head cracked, and I replaced that with a new aftermarket head, but I know how to deal with this well enough that I'm not at all worried about putting off a new radiator for a few weeks. I'm always checking the T gauge.

I've been commuting for about a week with this crack and if it gets bad enough then I can spend the few hours and put a new radiator in, but I just don't feel like doing that at this very moment. That's up to my judgement.

 

You've got it covered then.

 

Seems like there would be some coolant film remaining down deep in the crack (impossible to clean) that would prevent a good seal. Hope it works out.

Some automotive/marine grade plastics JBWeld will just not stick to well enough to seal when under pressure......especially when deep down in the crack it's so difficult to clean/prep. That's been my experience.

 

"That's up to my judgement."



Next...

 

If the leak stays closed like this thread, he will be lucky

 

This thread ain't closed.....and I bet the rad doesn't stay closed either.....especially if "I'm pretty sure it broke when I went offroading last week and hit some deep puddles at questionable speeds. My battery is secured by a bungie cord because the stock mount has rusted and broken a long time ago".......but u never know, maybe it will stay sealed.

 

Batter up!

 

It seems OP that you will end up spending near the replacement amount on a temporary fix. There is no good way to patch a plastic/ aluminum radiator. If it where copper it could be soldered. Most just want you to understand to do it right the first time as to possibly save you some money/down time down the road.

 

Very well said......and no reason to close it.

 

A friend had new plastic end tanks put the radiator for his Pontiac last year.,
but that may cost more than a replacement...

 

There r plenty of $500 rads out there and new tanks/seals is probably the way to go on those rads. However, a new XJ rad can be had for <$100 which may/may not be cheaper than new tank(s). Bottom line is, rad must come out to either be replaced or repaired (new tanks).

 

My point. As cheap as a new radiator is I don't see the point of a repair.

 

To get by for a few weeks and past Christmas....