Long time no see CF! I haven't been on here in ages.

2000 XJ, Auto

Anyways, I just finished installing my 5th and final engine (4th stroker) and this time the valvetrain specs are OEM, so it should last like a regular 4.0 (theoretically).

It wouldn't start up but it does turn over. I have verified timing by putting the crank at 0 and pulling the camshaft position sensor (aka sync sensor - this is the distributorless model unfortunately) to put the allen wrench in it to ensure it stays lined up for the TDC setting.

I have excellent pressure at the rail although I haven't hooked up a pressure gauge to it to verify how much it has. I'm not sure how I'm going to test the spark since it's that gay non-user-friendly coil-pack-rail setup designed to only be good business for the dealership's service department.

I tested the CKP/CPS earlier to verify that wasn't a problem, and it was actually. I went to Adv. Auto and the only one they had was dead right out of the box (I tested it on the counter). I went to O'Reilly's and the first one I tested was good, so in it went.

But still no start on my part,
Oh my broken heart,
At this rate how will I ever get to the park?

I've searched the forum already and try to rejog my memory.

Something to note: I heard that the fuel injectors for 4.0's are negative triggered and that the positive is always hot, and that if you disconnect them you can damage the ECU. Is this true? I haven't done that, but I did have the cam, IAT, TPS, IAC, & MAP all disconnected at one point accidentally while trying to start it (last night). I got codes for them (all except the MAP and cam sensor) and cleared them out. I haven't had any more since then.

Of note may be that this XJ has sat since.... November of last year. There was no fuel in it (or barely). I had some experimental vent tubes hooked up bypassing the charcoal canister (but not the PCV), and it was empty. I didn't drain the gas out of it and when I lost drove it, it still had plenty of gas in it. I primed the fuel pump with the hose routed to a container expecting varnish (which I have had come out before) but instead got a few dribbles of actual fuel that looked and smelled good.

Thank you for reading my novel.

 

Hold the throttle open about 50% ive had the IAC stay full closed after an unhooked battery and a dead battery jumped.

To test spark you could flip the spark rail upside down and put the plugs in then ground them to the block. Pull the fuel pump fuse of you do it this way.

 

Wow, the IAC is stuck AF. I've been PB blasting it and trying to get it to open. The cylinder spins freely but it won't go down. I have a 70MM TB with a smaller IAC. It's shorter by about half an inch so I don't know how I'm going to replace that. I guess I will have to contact the place I got it from... wherever that was. It's been some years.

Is there a way to un-stuck this ****?

 

So the jeep starts with 50% throttle?

I can't say with yours but the stock valve can be removed cleaned and put back in.

 

I didn't try starting it. I went straight to the IAC and took it off. How do you disassemble it.... it looks pressed together. I've already taken it off the housing port connected to the TB.

 

The IAC is operated electronically. There is a small motor inside, i think. Regardless, i was always told do not bother trying to take it apart or operate the plunger by hand or you will ruin it. The IAC can be cleaned or replaced only.

 

I didn't take mine fully apart. I just cleaned off the plunger with a wire brush and solvent. Also cleaned up the plunger seat in the tb.

 

I've got a spare one and have handled them in the past, the plunger is always movable because it sits on a spring. I think the motor inside adjusts when powered on to close the gap to adjust the air flow, but not plugged in it's wide open. I have handled this one in the past and it moved freely just like the other one does. My engine bay and supercharger used to get really hot because I had too small of a TB and needed a smaller pulley. Since it was overheating when it was last on, a year ago, I wonder if it's cooked into place.

As of last night it would move a 16th of an inch down, just enough for me to get a screw driver in there. I decided to just let it sit with PB Blaster in it last night. I tried some professional use only carb cleaner to no avail as well. I'll plug it in and see if it operates any different.

 

I think the cold weather was to blame for lack of activity from the PB blaster so I took out the heat gun and gave it some hot action and PB blasting in cycles. It now moves a quarter of an inch and I am going to let that go for now. Throttling didn't help with the start/no start. I'm about to test the coil packs with the boots removed sparking to a line of grounded thread rod or something else to verify that works. I had to dry out the spark plugs this morning from all the starting I did yesterday.

 

Pull the fuel pump fuse while testing spark. After the engine dries out try opening the throttle to start again. Do not go over 80%* throttle as this shut off injectors for the clear flood command.

*Not completely sure it's 80%

 

I tested it with a pretty simple test for the spark earlier and that's there. I found the fuel pressure tester and that's at 48~ PSI so that's good.

I did some sync sensor turning and pulled the plugs to clean them, then decided I should do a compression test while I had the plugs out. I checked two cylinders and neither had compression. I thought it seemed much less stiff when turning the crank than previous times. I kept the sprockets fully in the chain when they came out and put them on the shelf so I don't know how that happened. I remember checking the divots and seeing the 1st piston at TDC. I even made marks myself to show how it came off and those aligned, and I have pictures.

It's time to take it apart and take a peak. I don't see divots in the cam sprocket, just a line (on what I can see). I'm wondering if there is a divot and also a line just to ensure you have a 50% chance of messing it up.

Time to take the front apart and find out. Although I've done it in the past I don't remember how I pulled the crank pulley since the fan shroud and electric fan base is right in front of the pulley a few inches away.

 

Why not test them all before you remove the rocker cover to inspect push rods.

 

The rocker cover has been off. I triple checked the rockers and figured out my own OCD way to set the lifter preload. I think I may just check on those once every few oil changes just for the fun of it. It doesn't take long and it won't hurt anything.

I figured out what's wrong looking at my pictures. This is the picture of when it came off. I put it on absolutely right, so that is why my timing is all fugged up. The clowns that I had work on my engine in NC put the crank sprocket on wrong, so when I put it on correct now it's all out of sync.

Here's a picture. You can see the properly shaped crank key to the right. They also fubar'ed the nose key on the crank up like a bunch of cavemen trying to figure out how to put a circle in a square hole. Anyone reading this on the east coast of NC, stay away from Majestic Motorsports. They noobed everything they got their dirty little dickbeaters on and it took them 6 months to do it. I'm not even going to get into what a bunch imbecile work I found, and they handed it off to me late night the day before I had to move so they knew they were getting off scott free from me being up in their *** about the hurried *** amateur job they did.

Anyways, this picture is enclosed. This is a Cloyles dual chain setup. I don't know why there is more than one key way on the crank sprocket. Next time I will strictly use the divots as my reference point. Lesson learned there. The appropriate keyway is the square one on the bottom right.