cps??
#1
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Year: 1996
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cps??
I've got a 96 Cherokee sport and in the winter on colder days it would have a long crank time before it would start now that's its warmer if I've been driving for awhile and stop and start it back it won't start til the engines cooled down. Could this be the crank position sensor
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6 cylinder
Originally Posted by droark
I've got a 96 Cherokee sport and in the winter on colder days it would have a long crank time before it would start now that's its warmer if I've been driving for awhile and stop and start it back it won't start til the engines cooled down. Could this be the crank position sensor
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
One important question for you.
Do you ever experience stalling or misfire? Or is it just the symptom of a hot engine not starting until it cools down?
The reason I ask is this. If the crank sensor fails, you should see immediate symptoms, WHILE the engine is running.
However, if the CAMSHAFT position sensor fails and the signal is lost while the engine is running, the computer will calculate spark timing based on the last cam sensor signal and the engine will continue to run. However, the engine will not run after it is shut off. But if the sensor is suffering from thermal (heat related) failure, as soon as it cools down, it might allow the engine to restart.
Because of that "characteristic" of the cam sensor and the way it operates, it might be in play here.
I would also use the below technique to see if there are any stored codes in your computer that might yield any clues. Do so even if you haven't seen a check engine light.
Hope this helps; keep us updated.
----------------------------------------------------------
OBDII models (1996 and “SOME” 1997 models) Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the 2 digit error codes. The2 digit code is helpful, but it is not as specific as the full PXXXX code, which is only available using a code reader or scan tool, so generally I recommend using the code reader or scan tool. But if you have a CEL and don’t have access to a code reader or a scan tool, try the odometer technique to point you in the right direction until you can gain access to a code reader.
Do you ever experience stalling or misfire? Or is it just the symptom of a hot engine not starting until it cools down?
The reason I ask is this. If the crank sensor fails, you should see immediate symptoms, WHILE the engine is running.
However, if the CAMSHAFT position sensor fails and the signal is lost while the engine is running, the computer will calculate spark timing based on the last cam sensor signal and the engine will continue to run. However, the engine will not run after it is shut off. But if the sensor is suffering from thermal (heat related) failure, as soon as it cools down, it might allow the engine to restart.
Because of that "characteristic" of the cam sensor and the way it operates, it might be in play here.
I would also use the below technique to see if there are any stored codes in your computer that might yield any clues. Do so even if you haven't seen a check engine light.
Hope this helps; keep us updated.
----------------------------------------------------------
OBDII models (1996 and “SOME” 1997 models) Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the 2 digit error codes. The2 digit code is helpful, but it is not as specific as the full PXXXX code, which is only available using a code reader or scan tool, so generally I recommend using the code reader or scan tool. But if you have a CEL and don’t have access to a code reader or a scan tool, try the odometer technique to point you in the right direction until you can gain access to a code reader.
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Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by droark
Would it have anything to do with causing the transmission to slip
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No. You have two issues.
Be sure transmission fluid is at the correct LEVEL on the dipstick, that it is RED in color, and that it does not smell BURNT.
If you change fluid, use Dex/Merc III compatible fluid in the AW4.
Be sure transmission fluid is at the correct LEVEL on the dipstick, that it is RED in color, and that it does not smell BURNT.
If you change fluid, use Dex/Merc III compatible fluid in the AW4.
#7
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Ok sorry to change the subject but if there's a leak in one of your hoses would cause u to lose pressure an make it slip
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