Coolant System Redone. still having issues
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Coolant System Redone. still having issues
I owned the Jeep for the last 60K miles. I have done multiple coolant flushes on it with no issues. Last year Dec. 2016, I replaced the water pump with a gates model since the original developed a leaked. Also got the HD fan clutch. After the parts were installed I could never get coolant system to see 210F during hot days. It used to be rock steady at 210F no matter what, I was seeing 225F on when I would come to stop lights and heavy traffic.
Fast forward to this past summer, I finally decided to tackle the issue. I simply replaced parts since I was at 175K . Got a heavy duty Mopar radiator (MOPAR 5191929AA) , got a new Mopar water pump, replaced the coolant sensor with an AC Delco brand. New Crown 195F thermostat, Hesco hi flow housing.
when it's nice and cool outside and cruising I see coolant temps in the low 180s. If it is cool outside and I stop I may see a slight increase to perhaps 190Fs
when I am in heavy traffic the coolant temps can spike up to 220F
I have burped the system plenty of times. Using a coolant funnel & vacuum kit. I have no leaks in the system. And have let it purge for 30-40 min several times. pressing the coolant lines. I don't think its due to burping the system.
The heater core was installed maybe 3-4 years ago. So I hope it's not an issue with that. I have good AC & heat. Anyone have any suggestions or seen something similar ? thanks in advance.
Heavy Stop & Go Traffic
Fast forward to this past summer, I finally decided to tackle the issue. I simply replaced parts since I was at 175K . Got a heavy duty Mopar radiator (MOPAR 5191929AA) , got a new Mopar water pump, replaced the coolant sensor with an AC Delco brand. New Crown 195F thermostat, Hesco hi flow housing.
when it's nice and cool outside and cruising I see coolant temps in the low 180s. If it is cool outside and I stop I may see a slight increase to perhaps 190Fs
when I am in heavy traffic the coolant temps can spike up to 220F
I have burped the system plenty of times. Using a coolant funnel & vacuum kit. I have no leaks in the system. And have let it purge for 30-40 min several times. pressing the coolant lines. I don't think its due to burping the system.
The heater core was installed maybe 3-4 years ago. So I hope it's not an issue with that. I have good AC & heat. Anyone have any suggestions or seen something similar ? thanks in advance.
Heavy Stop & Go Traffic
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Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Does a 2000 have the supplemental electric fan? It sounds like a bad fan since when air is flowing through the radiator everything is good, but when you come to a stop your air flow is entirely dependent on the fans.
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Year: 2000
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electric fans turns on at 219F usually. If I unplug it from the coolant sensor the fan turns on automatically.
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Year: 2000
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I read all kinds of post about when and under what conditions it should turn on. What's odd is that the coolant temp stays way below 210F while cruising when it's cold outside. That's usually a sign of a thermostat that stays Open. very puzzled by all these symptoms.
I called NAPA and they told me that without the receipt I cannot make a warranty on the clutch fan. oh well.
The fan clutch has a lot of resistance, It does not feel like its worn out. But I'll try to get one in there just for the sake of eliminating that component being faulty.
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From: SEMO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
It was changed in 2000 from 218 to 223. I've confirmed that's exactly what OBD-II is reporting when mine comes on.
Considering your symptoms, my first instinct was fan clutch but I dismissed that when you stated that you just installed a new HD one. There's a small possibility that you got a bad one, I suppose.
I also agree with your comment about the thermostat. Mine will "oscillate" as it warms up in cold weather. As it warms up from cold, it doesn't fully open until about 205 degrees, then continues opening and closing, as it further warms up and settles in around 198 degrees or so, which looks like midway between the marks before 210. The main difference is that the thermostat is pretty much fully open all the time in summer heat, and then it's relying on the fan clutch to keep temps in check.
Considering your symptoms, my first instinct was fan clutch but I dismissed that when you stated that you just installed a new HD one. There's a small possibility that you got a bad one, I suppose.
I also agree with your comment about the thermostat. Mine will "oscillate" as it warms up in cold weather. As it warms up from cold, it doesn't fully open until about 205 degrees, then continues opening and closing, as it further warms up and settles in around 198 degrees or so, which looks like midway between the marks before 210. The main difference is that the thermostat is pretty much fully open all the time in summer heat, and then it's relying on the fan clutch to keep temps in check.
Last edited by Tbone289; Nov 27, 2017 at 12:56 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
It was changed in 2000 from 218 to 223. I've confirmed that's exactly what OBD-II is reporting when mine comes on.
Considering your symptoms, my first instinct was fan clutch but I dismissed that when you stated that you just installed a new HD one. There's a small possibility that you got a bad one, I suppose.
I also agree with your comment about the thermostat. Mine will "oscillate" as it warms up in cold weather. As it warms up from cold, it doesn't fully open until about 205 degrees, then continues opening and closing, as it further warms up and settles in around 198 degrees or so, which looks like midway between the marks before 210. The main difference is that the thermostat is pretty much fully open all the time in summer heat, and then it's relying on the fan clutch to keep temps in check.
Considering your symptoms, my first instinct was fan clutch but I dismissed that when you stated that you just installed a new HD one. There's a small possibility that you got a bad one, I suppose.
I also agree with your comment about the thermostat. Mine will "oscillate" as it warms up in cold weather. As it warms up from cold, it doesn't fully open until about 205 degrees, then continues opening and closing, as it further warms up and settles in around 198 degrees or so, which looks like midway between the marks before 210. The main difference is that the thermostat is pretty much fully open all the time in summer heat, and then it's relying on the fan clutch to keep temps in check.
Ditto on the Fan Clutch thoughts. Just one thing to add though, are the fan blades different at all?
Just to clarify, you were getting this same problem BEFORE the new fan clutch and you're still getting it now? In that case it's probably unlikely it's 2 bad fan clutches in a row, but stranger things have happened.
I read in a post somewhere that since the coolant system on the XJ's are a PITA to burp that he would drill out the little bypass hole at the top of the t-stat. Not a lot, but just enlarging it a smidge. I don't know if that's relevant or helpful, but I thought I'd throw it out there since this does seem like such a baffling situation.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ditto on the Fan Clutch thoughts. Just one thing to add though, are the fan blades different at all?
Just to clarify, you were getting this same problem BEFORE the new fan clutch and you're still getting it now? In that case it's probably unlikely it's 2 bad fan clutches in a row, but stranger things have happened.
I read in a post somewhere that since the coolant system on the XJ's are a PITA to burp that he would drill out the little bypass hole at the top of the t-stat. Not a lot, but just enlarging it a smidge. I don't know if that's relevant or helpful, but I thought I'd throw it out there since this does seem like such a baffling situation.
Just to clarify, you were getting this same problem BEFORE the new fan clutch and you're still getting it now? In that case it's probably unlikely it's 2 bad fan clutches in a row, but stranger things have happened.
I read in a post somewhere that since the coolant system on the XJ's are a PITA to burp that he would drill out the little bypass hole at the top of the t-stat. Not a lot, but just enlarging it a smidge. I don't know if that's relevant or helpful, but I thought I'd throw it out there since this does seem like such a baffling situation.
picked up a carquest HD fan clutch model. Will install shortly
I did drill a peephole on the Stant brand stat. This time around I went with the Crown because it already has one. Here is a picture of the one that's currently installed in the Jeep. (I have 2 extra ones)
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0
Ditto on the Fan Clutch thoughts. Just one thing to add though, are the fan blades different at all?
Just to clarify, you were getting this same problem BEFORE the new fan clutch and you're still getting it now? In that case it's probably unlikely it's 2 bad fan clutches in a row, but stranger things have happened.
I read in a post somewhere that since the coolant system on the XJ's are a PITA to burp that he would drill out the little bypass hole at the top of the t-stat. Not a lot, but just enlarging it a smidge. I don't know if that's relevant or helpful, but I thought I'd throw it out there since this does seem like such a baffling situation.
Just to clarify, you were getting this same problem BEFORE the new fan clutch and you're still getting it now? In that case it's probably unlikely it's 2 bad fan clutches in a row, but stranger things have happened.
I read in a post somewhere that since the coolant system on the XJ's are a PITA to burp that he would drill out the little bypass hole at the top of the t-stat. Not a lot, but just enlarging it a smidge. I don't know if that's relevant or helpful, but I thought I'd throw it out there since this does seem like such a baffling situation.
I changed the leaky WP and I did the fan clutch upgrade at the same time.
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Originally Posted by PatHenry;3443234[B
]Ditto on the Fan Clutch thoughts. Just one thing to add though, are the fan blades different at all? [/B]
Just to clarify, you were getting this same problem BEFORE the new fan clutch and you're still getting it now? In that case it's probably unlikely it's 2 bad fan clutches in a row, but stranger things have happened.
I read in a post somewhere that since the coolant system on the XJ's are a PITA to burp that he would drill out the little bypass hole at the top of the t-stat. Not a lot, but just enlarging it a smidge. I don't know if that's relevant or helpful, but I thought I'd throw it out there since this does seem like such a baffling situation.
Just to clarify, you were getting this same problem BEFORE the new fan clutch and you're still getting it now? In that case it's probably unlikely it's 2 bad fan clutches in a row, but stranger things have happened.
I read in a post somewhere that since the coolant system on the XJ's are a PITA to burp that he would drill out the little bypass hole at the top of the t-stat. Not a lot, but just enlarging it a smidge. I don't know if that's relevant or helpful, but I thought I'd throw it out there since this does seem like such a baffling situation.
the fan blades are fine. installing it with the logo that says FRONT towards the radiator. Not sure if it can fit backward
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I replaced the clutch fan, the napa cutch was much harder to turn than the carquest. Tomorrow we are expecting 80F temp. I'll make sure to get into heavy traffic
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