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Coolant System Flush Price Question?

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Old 02-16-2011, 04:06 PM
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Default Coolant System Flush Price Question?

I was quoted a price of $89 to have my coolant system flushed. They said it would break loose deposits and other stuff and that it includes the price of the coolant and thermostat. Is this a good price?
Old 02-16-2011, 04:07 PM
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yeah sounds like a good deal to me. I say go for it.
Old 02-16-2011, 04:19 PM
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Sounds like a good deal, but you can get it done for about half that price if you do it yourself.

At some point paying for something can indeed be worth it, depending on how much you feel your time is worth.
Old 02-16-2011, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Sounds like a good deal, but you can get it done for about half that price if you do it yourself.

At some point paying for something can indeed be worth it, depending on how much you feel your time is worth.

and the confidence to be able to do the job right the first time
Old 02-16-2011, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by askingxforxit
and the confidence to be able to do the job right the first time
Yeah, but a coolant flush really isn't that difficult. A chimp with a screw driver and a hose could do it successfully. Including the tstat swap.

Old 02-16-2011, 04:59 PM
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A radiator flush is as simple as unscrewing the plug on the bottom of your radiator, flushing it with cleaner and/or water, and refilling it with the properly mixed 50% coolant 50% water mixture.

A full coolant system flush is not so simple. It requires you to get all the old fluids out of the engine block by using a pump with cleaners, as the shop would likely do, or by grabbing your garden hose and running water through the whole system, including the block, and letting it drain out of the bottom coolant return hose, until it's clear.

The shop would be using good cleaners and pumps that are more efficient than water, and not to mention that you wouldnt have to dispose of all that contaminated coolant-water so you would't have to draining it into the driveway/lawn/river storm drains or carry a bunch of gallons to a disposal center.

Considering a typical shop in my area charges around $100 just to read a code and diagnose a check engine light, $89 sounds pretty decent for total cost. This way you can also avoid the unneeded mess and get it done quick so you can get back to your day.

Last edited by CenCaliAlum2010; 02-16-2011 at 05:01 PM.
Old 02-16-2011, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CenCaliAlum2010
A radiator flush is as simple as unscrewing the plug on the bottom of your radiator, flushing it with cleaner and/or water, and refilling it with the properly mixed 50% coolant 50% water mixture.

A full coolant system flush is not so simple. It requires you to get all the old fluids out of the engine block by using a pump with cleaners, as the shop would likely do, or by grabbing your garden hose and running water through the whole system, including the block, and letting it drain out of the bottom coolant return hose, until it's clear.

The shop would be using good cleaners and pumps that are more efficient than water, and not to mention that you wouldnt have to dispose of all that contaminated coolant-water so you would't have to draining it into the driveway/lawn/river storm drains or carry a bunch of gallons to a disposal center.

Considering a typical shop in my area charges around $100 just to read a code and diagnose a check engine light, $89 sounds pretty decent for total cost. This way you can also avoid the unneeded mess and get it done quick so you can get back to your day.

They did say they would flush the whole system and would be using a pump. So with that said I think I will go ahead and let them do it. One less thing to worry about.
Old 02-16-2011, 05:27 PM
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If I remember correctly you want to make sure they are doing a reverse flush?? I dont remember for sure I think I saw it on a "Eric the Car Guy" video..
Old 02-16-2011, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Yeah, but a coolant flush really isn't that difficult. A chimp with a screw driver and a hose could do it successfully. Including the tstat swap.


so i'm that chimp and wondering witch way the thermostat is supposed to point.

I think the pointy end is supposed to go towards the radiator. Is that correct.
Old 02-16-2011, 05:42 PM
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Let them do it... a radiator flush is useless... a system flush is awesome... while ur there see if they have the machine to do a brake flush... sounds stupid but you will be amazed... BG flush systems are the best IMO... there Injection system and tranny system is top notch as well... nothing u will do at home will do what these machines can do...
Old 02-16-2011, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
Let them do it... a radiator flush is useless... a system flush is awesome... while ur there see if they have the machine to do a brake flush... sounds stupid but you will be amazed... BG flush systems are the best IMO... there Injection system and tranny system is top notch as well... nothing u will do at home will do what these machines can do...

I am actually going to tackle the brakes myself... I must replace the front rotors as a pair... my left front is grooved and I don't like it.
Old 02-16-2011, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by XJ5150

I am actually going to tackle the brakes myself... I must replace the front rotors as a pair... my left front is grooved and I don't like it.
This is a fluid flush... nothing else... gets the air out and ALL old fluid out... makes them feel brand new I promise... you'll never bleed them yourself as well... will work but trust me... Nissan bought the machine and I thought it was a waste till I did one as a test vehicle... couldn't believe the response...
Old 02-16-2011, 06:27 PM
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$89 to...

Flush the system with cleaners and pumps.
New Coolant
New Thermostat

Sounds fair to me, I mean I know I can do that myself for less but it's winter time right now and who wants to mess with all of that.


Originally Posted by CenCaliAlum2010
Considering a typical shop in my area charges around $100 just to read a code and diagnose a check engine light, $89 sounds pretty decent for total cost. This way you can also avoid the unneeded mess and get it done quick so you can get back to your day.
Where do you live? I'm gonna guess California.

$100 to read a code and diagnose a CEL?

I'm gonna pack up my reader and move west ..... " Codes Read - CEL Diagnosis $74.95 " I'll get rich!!!!

At one time you could charge around here ( Maryland ) to read a code, but now all the Auto Parts places do it for FREE. When the shops were charging $59 I was getting $30. Places ads on Craigslist for the service.

Now it seems everyone and their brother have a code reader.


Originally Posted by XJ5150
I am actually going to tackle the brakes myself... I must replace the front rotors as a pair... my left front is grooved and I don't like it.
I did my front brakes ... disc brakes are easy.

I had to do the backs last month, I hate doing drums but I will do them .... just not where there is snow on the ground and it's freezing outside.

I paid a shop to totally rebuild the rears ... new everything.

Last edited by KD3NE; 02-16-2011 at 06:29 PM.
Old 02-16-2011, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KD3NE
$100 to read a code and diagnose a CEL?

I'm gonna pack up my reader and move west ..... " Codes Read - CEL Diagnosis $74.95 " I'll get rich!!!!

At one time you could charge around here ( Maryland ) to read a code, but now all the Auto Parts places do it for FREE. When the shops were charging $59 I was getting $30. Places ads on Craigslist for the service.

Now it seems everyone and their brother have a code reader.
We do have a few shops that will run your codes for real cheap or even free but those are usually the shops that don't have the same quality workmanship, proper training and specialized equipment (such as a coolant system pump).

The nicer snap-on or mac code readers also cost around $1200 new and $500 per update cartridge which includes every major car manufacturer and car under the sun. It also pays for the support subscription for diagnostics on newer vehicles and any information on repairs for any vehicle. Not to mention that the darn things can produce graphs and comparison charts, operate and analyze while doing moving test drives, and a lot more than just spit out codes that I don't even know about because I don't own one haha.

Just to use the full functionality of these readers pretty much requires you to become ASE certified or have a lot of past experience.

Whether it is cost-effective for you as a customer is really how important it is for you to receive an accurate and well informed diagnosis. If it's a big problem and you have tried everything then maybe so. Either way those training, education and equipment costs get passed onto the consumer, and although it may be a high inspection cost, you can bet these places will give you your money's worth, otherwise they wouldn't be in business long.

Last edited by CenCaliAlum2010; 02-16-2011 at 10:58 PM.
Old 02-16-2011, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by KD3NE




I did my front brakes ... disc brakes are easy.

I had to do the backs last month, I hate doing drums but I will do them .... just not where there is snow on the ground and it's freezing outside.

I paid a shop to totally rebuild the rears ... new everything.

I don't mind drums or disc... done plenty of both. Just want to make sure I use good rotors and pads. Now that I don't have to pay my cell phone bill for two months (deposit finally refunded to account) I will be able to do my brakes. Maybe the coolant too.


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