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coolant flush prob

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Old 11-08-2009, 09:01 PM
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I have no idea. My ideas are either the radiator or the gauge is reading wrong. When I stopped I felt the radiator and it was cool and the hoses where warm but not 280*.
Old 11-08-2009, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jon_89
I have no idea. My ideas are either the radiator or the gauge is reading wrong. When I stopped I felt the radiator and it was cool and the hoses where warm but not 280*.
It may be a bad sender cause if you were that hot you would be boiling some coolant out?
Old 11-08-2009, 09:11 PM
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Replaced that not to long ago.
Old 11-08-2009, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbadxj
Yea most of what above is correct. I have never done a flush like that, I do not see a reason unless you think you have a blockage. But if you want to get the tap water out with out pulling the block plug(which I would not do) Then just add your coolant mixture till you start getting that out instead of clear water.
I'm curious to know why you wouldnt recommend pulling the block plug?
Old 11-09-2009, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by cherokeefreak
I'm curious to know why you wouldnt recommend pulling the block plug?
Why would you? I do not like making things more difficult than they should be.
Old 11-09-2009, 08:54 AM
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ahh, fair enough I guess lol. I just figured that if it wasnt good to have tap water in your system, it would be best to get it all out. But I guess if you dilute it enough you wouldnt have a problem.

Thanks for the answer!
Old 11-09-2009, 11:01 PM
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Today messed with it some more. Pulled both the top and bottom hose stuck the hose in a flushed. Water did come out although I went to drive it a little and bam the gauge read 260*. So I shut it off and what do you know the motor was still pretty cool. Any ideas?
Old 11-09-2009, 11:17 PM
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bad sending unit? Faulty Gauge? Start by testing resistance from the sending unit, sometimes even new ones are bad.
Old 11-09-2009, 11:31 PM
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does the heat work? If not then you have air trapped or have not added enough coolant and nothing is circulating at all. sometimes turning the heat on and opening the valve to the heater core gets the air moving and out of the system.
Old 11-09-2009, 11:57 PM
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One of my thoughts was the gauge so I went and bought an aftermarket and the sensor is to big for the existing hole. Anybody have this problem?
Old 11-10-2009, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jon_89
One of my thoughts was the gauge so I went and bought an aftermarket and the sensor is to big for the existing hole. Anybody have this problem?
The stock sensor probably uses 1/8" NPT pipe threads and the aftermarket ones I have seen use 1/4" NPT threads. go to the hardware store and see if you can find an adaptor. bring both sensors to be sure of the thread size/pitch.
Old 11-10-2009, 12:24 AM
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Yeah 1/8in for the stock and I think its more like 3/8in for the new one. Problem is I would have to use a 1/8in closed nipple which the sensor wont fit through. Was thinking maybe putting a tee inline with either the top or bottom rad hose.
Old 01-18-2010, 11:28 AM
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Where is the temp sensor located?

If radiator is cool but engine is HOT then you are not circulating the coolant. Blockage, Pump, collapsing hoses etc....

If the temp gauge is just wrong?? Then a new sending unit will correct.

What is the temp when it is "Hot" Do you have the Aux electric fan as well as the clutch fan. Either of those could be a problem but will lead to the radiator being HOT..not cool...

How long does it take to get Hot?
Old 01-18-2010, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jon_89
I have no idea. My ideas are either the radiator or the gauge is reading wrong. When I stopped I felt the radiator and it was cool and the hoses where warm but not 280*.
Check Both Hoses ??? I'm concerned that the engine IS HOT and the radiator IS NOT..
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