Control Arm Replacement
#1
Control Arm Replacement
Any of y'all have experience replacing the lower control arm specifically on the driver's side? Surely it can't be as easy as it looks..
See Pic
Cherokee Specs:
96 XJ - 4x4
See Pic
Cherokee Specs:
96 XJ - 4x4
#2
Junior Member
It is, in fact, as easy as it looks.
If I were you, I'd leave the Jeep sitting on it's own weight. Remove the arm and replace it with the new one.
You might need a ratchet strap to help you line the holes back up.
If I were you, I'd leave the Jeep sitting on it's own weight. Remove the arm and replace it with the new one.
You might need a ratchet strap to help you line the holes back up.
#4
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
I was wondering that myself, glad to hear it is that easy.
I have an 85 XJ I just bought and was also wondering if I should change out the bushings or just replace the whole control arm. My control arms are in good shape but the bushings are beginning to look cracked.
I have an 85 XJ I just bought and was also wondering if I should change out the bushings or just replace the whole control arm. My control arms are in good shape but the bushings are beginning to look cracked.
#5
Junior Member
You have to modify the arms but there's really nothing to it. Search "WJ control arms on an XJ"
#6
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
I wouldn't go through the trouble of replacing the bushings just to save a few bucks (literally would only be a few bucks cheaper to get two bushings than it would be to get a new arm with bushings). I'd just replace the whole arm. But that's me, I feel like my time is better spent elsewhere.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L FI OHV 6cyl
You've got that right. It is easy, once you get past the incredibly hard lame two step task of unbolting the bolts. I have a 98 XJ and I don't think the control arms were ever changed. It has spent 15 of those years in the Chicago winters with the salt and the rust and the things won't budge. I imagine a one hour job if all the bolts weren't stuck on Def worth everyone who needs these done checking out a quick internet search for some cheap parts because a mechanic will try charging you 500-700 for parts and labor. I just got two upper and two lowers with two bushings for 120 all Moog parts on amazon. It said on the Moog site it is their premium parts, the CK series. So it comes with lifetime warranty. Good thing these XJs last for several hundred thousand miles. I'm sitting around 86K right now. I'll be 65 by the time this thing croaks .
#9
Junior Member
Enough already! I've never seen so many zombie threads resurrected! Probably not my place since I'm not a mod but if you search and can't find an answer just start a new thread and ask your question. Please don't post to threads more than a couple weeks old.
#10
When I replaced mine, I just replaced the bushings. But..I went to poly. I know a lot of people don't like the poly, but I thought it really tightened up the ride. The bushings on the upper control arms at the axel are a pain. Much easier if you drop the axle, but doable with it in place and lowered as much as possible.
If you go with something like poly bushings you have to remove the old ones. To do that, I drill out as much of the rubber as possible with a drill bit. Then use an air chisel/hammer to get it the rest of the way out. Then use and air chisel on the metal sleeve to punch it in and through. It is very difficult without an air hammer/chisel. The new poly bushings just slide into place. No need for a metal sleeve like the rubber ones.
Much easier to just replace the entire arm especially if you are staying with stock rubber since you would still need to press in the new one.
If you go with something like poly bushings you have to remove the old ones. To do that, I drill out as much of the rubber as possible with a drill bit. Then use an air chisel/hammer to get it the rest of the way out. Then use and air chisel on the metal sleeve to punch it in and through. It is very difficult without an air hammer/chisel. The new poly bushings just slide into place. No need for a metal sleeve like the rubber ones.
Much easier to just replace the entire arm especially if you are staying with stock rubber since you would still need to press in the new one.
#11
Senior Member
Welcome to the forum.
+1 on discontinuing resurrection of dead threads (or multiple dead threads) to ask a single question.
When fasteners don't want to budge, then careful application of heat to the nut, combined w/ a pipe slid over the breaker bar while wearing safety glasses does wonders. I always use six point sockets.
My experience has been positive w/ usage of the Moog products for steering and control arms.
When I need to replace missing / broken / damaged specialty hardware I order OEM Mopar parts.
+1 on discontinuing resurrection of dead threads (or multiple dead threads) to ask a single question.
When fasteners don't want to budge, then careful application of heat to the nut, combined w/ a pipe slid over the breaker bar while wearing safety glasses does wonders. I always use six point sockets.
My experience has been positive w/ usage of the Moog products for steering and control arms.
When I need to replace missing / broken / damaged specialty hardware I order OEM Mopar parts.
Last edited by wingless; 06-14-2017 at 01:59 PM.
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L FI OHV 6cyl
Superslow and wingless,
My bad. I didn't realize people did not like others commenting on old threads. A user sent me a message shortly after I made a few posts on old topics and mentioned it would be good to avoid doing that. Noted. I was not really asking a question or looking for a reply on this post from the original user. I just thought I would add to the post since there are so many re run threads that seem to clutter up the search are about the same issues. Figured it could potentially help random viewers if they were searching for that answer. I will steer clear of doing that though from now on. Glad to hear more good things about Moog. A lot of the threads I read when doing my tie rods and ends, I saw many people recommend Moog and saw good reviews on a few websites.
dzywicki - thanks for the tips. Since I will be replacing the full control arms and everything will have new bushings, I will save that tip for when ever I need new bushings down the road.
My bad. I didn't realize people did not like others commenting on old threads. A user sent me a message shortly after I made a few posts on old topics and mentioned it would be good to avoid doing that. Noted. I was not really asking a question or looking for a reply on this post from the original user. I just thought I would add to the post since there are so many re run threads that seem to clutter up the search are about the same issues. Figured it could potentially help random viewers if they were searching for that answer. I will steer clear of doing that though from now on. Glad to hear more good things about Moog. A lot of the threads I read when doing my tie rods and ends, I saw many people recommend Moog and saw good reviews on a few websites.
dzywicki - thanks for the tips. Since I will be replacing the full control arms and everything will have new bushings, I will save that tip for when ever I need new bushings down the road.
#13
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Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im on 4 forums and the're all hyper paranoid about using old threads. i think its great,wastes less space, gives good old background info. my vote dont count!!
hummer is the worst...
hummer is the worst...
#14
Senior Member
Keeping old context is fine.
Resurrecting three dead threads in 20 minutes for the same question is excessive.
Resurrecting three dead threads in 20 minutes for the same question is excessive.
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