Constant Vibration
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: New England
Year: 1999 XJ, 2000 WJ
Engine: 4.0 l6
Hello everyone, new to the forum and I have just installed my first lift kit in a 99 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 150,000 miles. I installed a 4.5 lift with new Rubicon Express springs in the front and used Rubicon Express leaf springs in the rear, rough country shackles in the rear, and everything else BDS. Ever since I put the lift in; holy hell I've never driven a car that shakes so much, I made sure everything was torqued and at first the rear was sagging more so I put the shackles in thinking that would not only even out the lift but possibly help the drive shaft angle. It still shakes like crazy. Another note, I have stock tires on this jeep and they are very very old, some are worn completely some are brand new. I definitely need new tires 31'' to 33'' and I will mount and balance them. I'm hoping that will help with some of the shake also. But I do not think that will quite solve this problem. The jeep shakes alot, especially when i'm just getting going. around 30 the shaking calms a little bit, but still constantly shaking like crazy. It sounds like I have a really deep bass system going on the entire time I'm moving. Another thing, whenever I let off the gas pedal and coast, I hear this scratching/dragging noise. I'm thinking I need to replace the U-joints. Is this my problem? I've searched all over for other lifted jeeps that shake but everyone says it starts at around 30 to 50. But mine is nonstop.
Thank you,
Thank you,
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Traverse City, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
usually at a 4.5 inch lift or more this is caused from the angle on the rear drive shaft. Due to the poor angle caused by the lift it pulls the yoke in and out when the drive shaft rotates. The best fix for this is an SYE kit. Many lift company's sell the kit. You could try a transfer case drop but it may not solve the problem.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Traverse City, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock, Tx.
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
From another member that has a 97+ XJ (the transfercase is what makes the difference), I will say that you need an SYE.
I have around 3'' of lift and had the vibrations you are talking of. I did a .75'' transfercase drop and put a 6* shim in. This solved almost all of my vibrations. You, however, have a higher lift. Shims and a TC drop may help for the time being to save your u-joints but I can guarantee that you will need a SYE.
Any questions?
I have around 3'' of lift and had the vibrations you are talking of. I did a .75'' transfercase drop and put a 6* shim in. This solved almost all of my vibrations. You, however, have a higher lift. Shims and a TC drop may help for the time being to save your u-joints but I can guarantee that you will need a SYE.
Any questions?
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Eugene, Oregon
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6 (Ford 4.2L Injector Upgrade and Yellow Top Optima))
or you have bad ball joints and/or wheel bearings... jack up the jeep and push on a front tire at 12 and 6 (hands on a clock) and if it moves then you have a bad wheel bearing... then put a pry bar under the wheel and pry up against the tire and if you have up and down movement then you have bad ball joint(s)... if you do this to both front tires and you have no movement then go with a transfer case drop....
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